SlickXJ

Just wondering if it needs some thread tape to seal it or if it's fine on it's own. And this is the Coolant Temp Sending Unit by the back of the valve cover, not the Coolant Temp Sensor on the Tstat housing. Thanks!

Radi

No tape or other sealant needed, the thread is tapered. Don't crank it down too hard or you'll crack it.

Firestorm500

Also, it grounds to the block. You need a good ground.

cruiser54

Little dab of Permatex #2.

SlickXJ

Yea I saw that somewhere when looking up information about it. I have the AC compressor grounded to the battery, it that sufficient? I'm missing my braided grounding strap on the back of my valve cover to the firewall, so if need be, I'll find some wire and eyelets and make one.

cruiser54

Never have too many grounds............

SlickXJ

Anyone have any tips on getting the sender out? Can't find a guide on YT or on Google. Maybe my Google-fu is just weak :\

cruiser54

1/2" deep socket. Keep in mind it sits at an angle leaning toward the driver's fender.

SlickXJ

There was maybe a millimeter space between a side of the sensor and the valve cover. In my Haynes manual it shows that to be possible, but mines not. I ended up taking a 14mm cheap wrench and cutting it to about 2.5" in length on the open end and using that, worked perfectly.

SlickXJ

Also, it anyone was wondering why I replaced this sensor, it's because the temp gauge reads like 30 or 40 degrees higher than the actual temp. Hooking a scan tool up shows it running at 195-200, while the gauge reads like 235 to 240. The new sensor didn't fix the problem, so I'm going to get a ground strap for the block to the firewall since I've read it can cause some wonky stuff missing that ground. I saw on another forum Cruiser that you said if you're missing the nut to the head stud, just use the last bolt on the fuel rail, which I'll do. I'll keep you guys updated

SlickXJ

Added the ground, didn't fix the gauge. I think instead of chasing this more, I'll just buy an auxilliary gauge and call it even.