Where did it teminate at? I'm gona pull mine apart for speakers and I like to check things like grounds while I'm in the area and avoid future issues...

If its the one I think youre talking about it just goes to the inside of the door jamb and is attached with a screw. I can take a pic tomorrow if you want...

Also, I got my "test light" done, and will post pics as soon as they upload..

K.. here is my test light, its pretty redneck diy, but thats what im good at lol. It consists of a pen barrel, a led, a resistor, some wire, and electrical tape.
Click for larger image:
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_100_1196.jpg
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_100_1199.jpg
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_100_1200.jpg
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_100_1204.jpg
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/a...h_100_1206.jpg

Nice job, You have resistors, LEDs, Soildering tools laying around but no Multimeter??? What's wrong with this picture???:icon_rolleyes:

lol.. idk, it does seem kinda weird doesnt it? I used to have a analog meter, but I fried it and havent got a new one.. Never really needed one till now..

I will get that pic of the ground for you tomorrow too...

Well, power is passing through the circuit breaker, but I cannot find power anywhere in the drivers side switch panel...

I have gone through this issue several times. You have a plug inside the kick panel. Take off the panel and make sure it is connected. I am hoping that by now you at least have a test light. All the wires go to the switch in the door. Unplug the window switch. Only the red wire should be hot. Might as well take the door panel off also and lube all the door lock mechanism and get it working freely. They get stiff after 20 or 30 years. Put the plug in partially on the switch, just enough to make contact. Then take your test light and check each connection to the door locks and windows. If you are getting power to each, depending on switch position of course, then the actuator is bad. All this stuff is riveted in so you will need a 1/4" drill to drill them out. You can put a new one in with 1/4" allen screws and nylock nuts.

If power is not going to the actuator, then the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. The connections on these can look good, but the reality is that Jeep used brass in many electrical connections and it corrodes and will not pass electricity.

I have my redneck test light, I have been using it and it actually works pretty good...

The red wire is hot when ignition is in acc or run position. It is not hot when key is in the off position... I might have to give up on this one for now. It looks like the PO did something weird to the lock circuit, there is an aftermarket fuse assembly inline with the red wire, going behind the fuse box. It has a 30a fuse in it. If the switch in the drivers door was bad, wouldnt the passengers door switch still work?

No, the power goes through the whole thing. The wires for the passenger side window go through the switch then to the motor. That is why many times you can lock all the doors from the passenger side