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Potential XJ buy

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Old 08-15-2014, 08:43 PM
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Default Potential XJ buy

Hello all. I'm brand new to the forum. Just joined because I am heavily considering a purchase of a 98 cherokee sport. I was looking for some advice on whether or not this would be a good buy.

Basically it's a 98 5-speed with the 4.0L. ODO has 174,000. Seller has claimed that he has done a lot of fix-up's on it recently, including replacement of rear leaf springs. I haven't inspected it in person yet...but 1 thing that sticks out is some pretty serious rust on the 2 rear doors.







Again, I know I need to go and see this stuff in person to make the final call, but does anyone with repair experience have an opinion on that rust? Can that stuff be repaired with sanding and some sort of aftermarket paint?

Also, seller's asking price seems high given the mileage. Any opinions on that?

The real reason I like this one is that it does have a 5-speed and the supposedly better mpg on-road. I really don't intend to off-road a whole lot. Main use will be as a winter DD and for road trips. Thanks in advance for any help.

Edit: sorry forgot to add, the seller is asking $3,000. It is supposedly in good working order.

Last edited by Dalk043; 08-15-2014 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Price
Old 08-15-2014, 09:04 PM
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Thats a fair price if the rest of its in good shape. Does everything work? AC? Is the check engine light on? Tires good for another 20K? Interior clean and not too worn out? Does it drive down the road reasonably straight? All of these are expensive to repair if you have to pay to get them done.
If its a winter car then why do you have to fix the rust? Thats the reason for a winter car which the XJ is great for.
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by may pop
Thats a fair price if the rest of its in good shape. Does everything work? AC? Is the check engine light on? Tires good for another 20K? Interior clean and not too worn out? Does it drive down the road reasonably straight? All of these are expensive to repair if you have to pay to get them done.
If its a winter car then why do you have to fix the rust? Thats the reason for a winter car which the XJ is great for.
Ron
Thanks for feedback. Yeah I still need to go and see the jeep in person. The only reason I am worried about the rust is that some of it looks to be eating deep into the door panel. I don't want to have to replace it further on down the line. Otherwise i don't care too much about how it looks cosmetically.

But $3000 for a 174k jeep seems fair? I was thinking based on KBB that I should try to haggle for at least $2500, even if everything is verified to be in good working order.
Old 08-15-2014, 09:42 PM
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Your going to have to cut it out and weld new metal in, if you want to do it right
Old 08-15-2014, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by crabmushrooms5
Your going to have to cut it out and weld new metal in, if you want to do it right
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Like I said, the only real reason I was drawn to this one is because its the only 5-speed in my area. Is the mpg difference between 5 speed and auto really worth fretting over..or should I just go with an auto in better condition?

I plan on doing some road trips and longer drives in it...the only reason I ask.
Old 08-15-2014, 10:13 PM
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not sure but I know having a manual gives you more control over what you are doing when you are offroad, like when shifting takes place. Heard the aw4 auto trans is as bulletproof as the 4.0, heard a couple good things about the manual trans (ax15?).

If there is rust on the doors, the bottom might have rust too/be more rusted.

Either way when I buy a used car I'm swapping out all the fluids. in this case the f&r diff, t-case, trans, oil, coolant. Don't matter what the previous owner tells me.

If it don't leak anything and the ac works, would be a tough call for me.

Last edited by crabmushrooms5; 08-15-2014 at 10:16 PM.
Old 08-15-2014, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dalk043
The only reason I am worried about the rust is that some of it looks to be eating deep into the door panel. I don't want to have to replace it further on down the line. Otherwise i don't care too much about how it looks cosmetically.
Actually the rust you see on the doors and rockers started from the inside. With that much rust visible on the exterior it's almost a sure bet the floors are in need of some serious work. Before you spend a dime take a Phillips head screw driver with you to remove some trim pull back the carpet & look, better now than later.
Old 08-15-2014, 10:27 PM
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true
Old 08-15-2014, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Actually the rust you see on the doors and rockers started from the inside. With that much rust visible on the exterior it's almost a sure bet the floors are in need of some serious work. Before you spend a dime take a Phillips head screw driver with you to remove some trim pull back the carpet & look, better now than later.
X2, if you look at this thing bring a screw driver and a flash light, get on your back down and dirty with this thing and start poking around the rusty spots. The door and rocker rot isn't so bad, but it makes me very worried about what the rest looks like underneath and from the inside. If you're not dead set on a 5 speed, the auto might be better because there's wayyyyy more of them and they're usually cheaper. Good look though. If the floors look pretty good and everything else works I think 2,500 would be a decent deal. 3,000 sounds pretty steep IMO.
Old 08-16-2014, 12:44 AM
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I think the doors are the same from 84 to 2002......Your call on the rust, not my department! With the hatch open, look for cracks in the unibody at the upper corners, outboard of the hinges. If you can, park it with one rear wheel up, (or back onto a ramp/curb or something), and see how the hatch closes. Not necessarily a deal breaker if it's not too bad, but a great bargaining point to try to go below $2500. With him standing there lift on the driver door and check for play in the hinge pins. Check the headliner. See if the ignition turns without the key. Put in in 4WD Part time, pull forward some with the wheel turned all the way, and see if it binds and bucks some. (it should if it's working, I think) Then put it back in 2WD.

98 is a fine year. 175K? heck I'm runnen supper at over 280, these 4.0's are amazing. Seeing nice even numbers in a compression test would be sweet. Boy the list goes on.....
Old 08-16-2014, 07:18 PM
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Not sure where you are located....didn't see it in any of your posts. I can buy ALOT of non-rusted Cherokee here in Atlanta for $3K.

And I greatly agree with Turbo... that is most likely from the inside out. It's probably a mess and worth maybe half the asking price.
Old 08-16-2014, 09:13 PM
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I agree with GAPANDA. Too much rust and higher miles. The undercarriage is probably a mess. Keep looking.

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Old 08-17-2014, 08:19 AM
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I just paid $2,000 for one with no rust and 162,000 miles, so $3,000 for this one seems pretty steep.
Old 08-17-2014, 10:43 AM
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As other has said that rust is very worry some I also would suspect the floors as well as other areas some not easy to see or get into without tearing into others.

The price seem a little on the high side also considering here is a photo of my 99 XJ that I paid $1800 for the day I brought it home and unloaded it from the trailer. No rust at all, except for both bumpers what was left of them. It was lifted 3" using blocks and spacers 31x10:50 tires new wheels, 2 bent shocks, cracked windshield, interior great but headliner sagging replaced $112 total. I bought it about a 100mi away from my home it ran fine just had my race car trailer and decided to trailer it instead of drive.

Well have to post the pics in a few mins. have to upload them.

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Last edited by Fred/N0AZZ; 08-17-2014 at 10:46 AM.
Old 08-17-2014, 01:34 PM
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It can vary by area but I think 3k is high too as well. I got my 98 classic 3 years ago, 116,000 and rust free for $2850. Keep shopping, especially with the rust.


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