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Potential New Buyer of '99 Cherokee XJ Sport (Seeking Advice/Insight)

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Old 01-24-2013, 11:57 AM
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Default Potential New Buyer of '99 Cherokee XJ Sport (Seeking Advice/Insight)

Hi,

I am potentially going to buy a 1999 Cherokee XJ later today (scheduled to take a test drive), and have a few questions/concerns:

1) The car has 179,900 miles on it. I have never bought a car with this kind of mileage. The seller seems knowledgeable and reputable, seeing as though he runs his own Jeep organization. I am relying heavily on his expertise, but would like to tap other experts in the Jeep world. I have my reservations about a car with this kind of mileage, but have read that this year ('99) Jeep is a very reliable year and can go upwards of 300K, given you do your normal upkeep maintenance. Thoughts?

2) I feel I know what generally to look for when inspecting a used car, but any Cherokee-specific things I should be looking for? Any tips is much appreciated.

Thanks!
Old 01-24-2013, 12:35 PM
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Look to see what month in 98/99 it was made. The later models are known to have cracked heads. So generally speaking 99.5 and earlier is good.

Ofcourse usual used car questions are good. Ask about service records, fluid changes.

Depending on location and where the jeep has "lived", rust can suck. Bottom of doors, quarter panels, and floor boards. Cherokee floors rust out. Look underneath to see rust or falling carpet.

4.0 engines tend to have leaky valve covers and rear main seals.

Hope that helps.
Old 01-24-2013, 12:38 PM
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Look for RUST!!! They do tend to rust pretty bad depending on your location. Check the floor boards, unibody frame rails, and under all the doors.
Old 01-24-2013, 02:29 PM
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Indeed these beats will last forever if treated right. The big things that matter are a good driveline and rust. rmoore1031's comments are valid but based on production date, not model year. A 1999 model year XJ could have been build in 1998 or 1999. They are the last ones with distributors, 2000 model year has coil-on-plug tech with a new head, which is prone to cracking if overheated. If the Jeep has a distributor you're fine - no need to figure out build date.

Other things driveline wise, check all fluids for cleanliness and contamination. Coolant + oil = no fun very bad. Take it for a drive and listen for rattling and knocking. A slight tapping from a 4.0 with that kind of mileage is totally normal. Knocking is not. Ask if any additives were ever used - Stop Leak and Lucas are frequently used to hide problems and can make the whole thing worse.

Rust however is the biggest enemy. Crawl underneath and look
Old 01-24-2013, 02:34 PM
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Some things I did in buying mine

1. Listen to the motor for any sounds like ticks, whistles, or metal grinding on metal.

2. feel the rubber water hoses in the front of the engine, make sure they are not bloated or decaying.

3. Take her for a test drive and accelerate fast while listening to the motor and feeling how the XJ reacts. It shouldnt shift really hard.

4. TEST THE 4x4! I had a friend who didn't do this and got screwed. Find a gravel road or dirt road and see if you can engage the 4x4. Then drive around a bit with the 4x4 engaged to make sure it will stay there, and then take it out of 4x4. You want to make sure that system works. Otherwise you could spend alot of money fixing it.

5. take the XJ up hills and see how she reacts.

6. Turn on the head lights and defrost if it has it and make sure the alternator can handle that draw.

7. Make sure its what you want in a cherokee

If 1-7 check out, then hand the guy your cash and have some fun!
Old 01-24-2013, 03:17 PM
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Rust, MY 01 XJ looked mint underneath & the body look really good(no rust) except for a couple of tiny dings (didn't care because i was going to build it) I pulled the bumperetts off the rear bumper & HOLLY $H!T holes the size of my fist on the drivers side from salt spray. The PO never went through a car wash... I never saw that till that point, all inside the trunk is rotted out under the plastic moldings. Run your hands under the rear to see if they are rusted out behind those bumperetts. Also, if you want to build it see what axles it's got, you want the Cry 8.25 in the rear. If you are looking for a daily driver the D35 shouldn't matter.

Good Luck, get some pictures & post them up.
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