is it possible
 

to remove the head with both manifolds still conected?

not likely but why would you want to. its not that complicated or time consuming to remove them. i assume your changing a head gasket and want to make it easier, if so that will be much harder when re-installing the head.

yeah thats true... for some reason i was thinking wrong. how much do you think a machine shop would charge to get a broken header bolt out of my head? or should i just try it. i really dont wanna mess the threads up

Yeah I hate trying to get to those intake/ exaust manifold bolts. They're in the worst positions.

if you feel capable give it a shot...but it can get worse and damage that will cost alot more could occur if you screw up....a local shop checked my head and made sure it was fflat. and removed 3 bolts for 122.00 worth it to me. good luck

yeah i think i will let someone else do it. i also have a broken valve cover bolt to.. thanks you po ha. i also wanna make sure its flat if im gonna spend all the time to rip it out. thanks

I know a guy in CO that will machine the head and grind the valves... everything for only $300 I just had him plane my head and he only charged $40

yeah but yours didn't run well for all that long soo...:p




OP, remove the intake and exhaust. if you don't, then you could run the potential of screwing up the torque on your head bolts while installing the head.

as for getting the exhaust bolt out..depends. is it broken flush with the head or is there a stub sticking out?

thank you for all the help... i think it is broken inside the head.

this is gunna be fun

Yes, but you should either be fairly large yourself, have help, or have a hoist to pull the thing off (I'm assuming you're talking about the 242ci head - which, with manifolds attached, comes to about 80-85#.)

If you remove the airbox and use a 9/16 "flex" socket (shorty socket with inbuilt universal joint,) it gets a lot easier to hit those lower rear manifold screws.

Replace them every time you take them out, if you're using carbon steel. If you're stuck with steel, use SAE5 (I use silicon bronze, they're easier to handle, better for the application, and don't seize. They cost more than carbon steel, which is why they're not used from the factory.)

It is possible, and I've heard secondhand stories from experienced cherokee folk that if you know what you're doing, it's actually faster than removing them.

It is. Servicing the manifold gasket on the bench takes about fifteen minutes (if you take your time!) while doing it in situ is usually good for at least ninety minutes, four skinned knuckles, a turned wrist, and many evil words...

removing s bolt isn't that bad......
 

you could remove the bolt if you've got a good extractor set.......

there's a couple of tricks to doing it that will help

1. Soak the hell out of it with PB blaster, nothin's better if you ask me, soak it overnight, over two nights if you have the time, every time you walk by it spray it again, that'll help more then anything.....go ahead and use wd-40 or whatever you want but I'd use PB Blaster

2. Spray some PB blaster on it, get a drill bit that is the same size as the whole, like the next hole over find the bit that fits in it the tightest. Then drill the face of the broken bolt. Here's why, if you look at the face of the broken bolt in the hole it will never be flat, so how do you drill your hole center to put the tap in? use a bit the size of the next hole over, it'll slide in there tight and will put a divet in the face of the broken bolt. Your just drillin' enough to put a little divet in the face of the broken bolt so you can do the next step. Spray some PB blaster on it

3. Spray some pb blaster on it then get a left handed drill bit, one that cuts when it turns left instead of right. These will be apart of any descent extractor set, I always start with the smallest that seems sturdy enough for the work. there might be some teeny tiny bits with an extractor but you'll break those.....I'd say start with one about half the diameter of the bit you used for the facing. THen spray more PB blaster

4. Spray more PB blaster then drill you a hole the depth of the bolt, look at the next hole over and make sure its the right depth. You need to drill the hole straight and centered, a little off and it makes your extractor work so hard...it might break.... (at this point if you actually drilled dead center the left handed bit might actually start turning the broken bolt out! if your really really lucky, and you used enough PB Blaster) You should be able to start dead center when you drill cause of the facing you did with the other bit earlier. Now you have a hole, spray some blaster in it.

5. Put the extractor in it, if you've never seen one it looks like a long, needle nosed, shriveled drill bit. Its left hand turn like the drill bit you hopefully used. It might have a t handle on it but most likely its got a place to put a wrench on it, stick it in the hole and with gentle and firm pressure turn the bolt out. if the wrench gives at all, turns ever so slightly without the bolt turning !!!!!!!!Let off!!!!!!!!, spray some blaster on it and wait a second, try again, patience grasshopper! if you break the extractor in it, then take it to the mechanic and after he calls you whatever he wants too under his breath then he'll charge you twice as much to extract it, or you might have to drill it out and put a coil in it. Remember the extractors are made out of very hard metal so when they snap they snap like glass, there is very little give, so be careful. If your gonna break it and you just know it, get the next size up drill bit and then use that extractor, its bigger and stronger. Make sure that as you go up in size your not drilling out the threads any. This is why we start small. then move up, be gentle and spray some blaster on it.

THe mechanic has a press and can usually drill a straighter hole then you, thats what makes his extraction superior to your DIY job, but if you got a steady hand and a good eye it aint that bad........I've extracted bolts out of heads with PB blaster and a screwdriver with a little patience. YOU CAN DO IT, buy a descent extractor set instead of paying a mechanic, and maybe you'll have a nack for it your buddies can pay with beer...If you screw it up though its gonna cost more to fix.