PORC SYE vs. H&T SYE?
#1
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Model: Wagoneer
PORC SYE vs. H&T SYE?
The prices are pretty close but I was wondering whats the differance?? The PORC SYE is a 32 spline and the hack and taps are normally the standard 27 i think so in the long run whats the best way to go? Cuz I really dont want to tear apart my Tcase if I can help it but Ive also heard the drill/tap and to be perfect on the H&T otherwise itll cause your gear to fail early... so Im just hoping for some clarity cuz Im ordering one soon...heres what Im looking at getting
Hack and Tap w/XJ front DS
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-X_HNT
PORC SYE (driveshaft not included)
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter....4325eb73f0aaa2
Hack and Tap w/XJ front DS
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-X_HNT
PORC SYE (driveshaft not included)
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter....4325eb73f0aaa2
#2
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you dont want to tear your t-case apart then go with the hack and tap. Be advised it is no stronger then what you all ready have, but gives you the ability to run a Double cardan joint shaft with a slip in it.
The main advantage to a replacement shaft is it upgrades the spline count.. thus making it stronger. While you have it done you can do upgrade like upgrading to a wider chain, and to more planeteries. Simple job..
The main advantage to a replacement shaft is it upgrades the spline count.. thus making it stronger. While you have it done you can do upgrade like upgrading to a wider chain, and to more planeteries. Simple job..
#3
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a porc. Very nice unit and very easy to install even without taking the t-case out. and for a dshaft you can take a tj front shaft and have it lengthened instead of a brand new shaft if money is an issue or a factor in this.
#5
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ya i really dont want to take the T case out, just cuz of the general knowledge of putting everything back together but on the other hand Im sure it would be a great learning experience but really it comes down to how much of a difference it actually makes between the 2 and i guess longevity is the key, but being its me DD not sure if i can take the hit of a few days of playing with the porc...but im still up in the air about it. My 1'' tcase drop has worked so far < kinda wondering if im wearing something down since the "vibes/sounds" are less now then they used to be lol
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#8
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Year: 2008 JKU (my XJ is long gone)
Engine: 3.8
I just went with the full sye. It took me an hour to split the case and get it back together. It was my first time doing it. It took longer to pull the case out of the jeep than it took for putting the parts in. It was really easy! Whole thing took me about 4 1/2 hours.
Then I just swapped my front DS to the rear and will pick up another front from the junk yard. Works GREAT!
Then I just swapped my front DS to the rear and will pick up another front from the junk yard. Works GREAT!
#9
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
everything i had read about the HnT was all good stuff... as the SYE on paper is stronger because of the addes splines or whatever i never found anyone who broke or had issues with the HnT... EVERYONE said it was a great mod and that it should even be called a HnT cause it kinda sounds bad... i would do the HnT if i wasnt going to build the transfer case fully like mentioned above... if ur gonna install a SYE and brake into the transfer case u may as well BUILD it... otherwise just do the HnT... from what ive read there both abot equal... just depends on what else u want to do to it...
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