Hi all. My 2000 XJ stalled out and would not restart until it cooled down. It wasn't overheating, just running a little over 210 from sitting in traffic. This is the second time it happened with the same conditions. First time it didn't throw a code, but this time it did. I scanned it and it said a P0352. I already replaced the coil rail after the first time it stalled.
Can anyone give me some guidance on fixing this? I am going to check over the wiring harness, and going to wiggle the wiring while it is running to see if I can repeat the stalling or get a misfire. I was also thinking the PCM could be causing this too. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Codes give us a place to look, not a part to replace check list.
Check the harness for the coil pack for chaffing, or damaged wires...also check that the ground stud on the lower right side of the block is clean and no loose/broken connections

 

a crank sensor can also cause this condition as well, but you need to verify power,ground and signal....if you dont have a DVOM, then now would be a good time to add one to your tool collection

 

I have 2 digital meters (fluke and Flir) could you give me some guidance as to what are where to check? thanks

 

thanks. I will take a look at them

 

P0352-IGNITION COIL # 2 PRIMARY CIRCUIT
When Monitored: With battery voltage greater than 8 volts during engine cranking or greater than 12 volts with engine running, engine rpm less than 2016, and none of the coils in dwell when checked.
Set Condition: Peak current is not achieved with battery based dwell plus 1.5 msec of diagnostic offset. It takes less than 3 seconds during cranking or up to 6 seconds while running to set.

POSSIBLE CAUSES


OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE IN THE ASD RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT
IGNITION COIL NO. 2 DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
COIL RAIL
IGNITION COIL NO. 2 DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (IGNITION COIL NO. 1 DRIVER)


Tests:



.


.

 

Good idea to wiggle the wiring harnesses.

You can check the PCM driver using a Voltmeter.

Remove the connector from the Coil Rail, remove the Fuel Pump Relay from the PDC.

Refer to the test procedure image above and the Coil Rail connector pinout below.

Using a safety pin (or equivalent) probe pin cavity 3, connect your Voltmeter + lead to the safety pin and the meter - lead to the battery NEG post connector.

Have helper crank the engine while you look for battery voltage on your meter. Wiggle the harness to see if it makes a difference.

Test at pin cavity 1 as well for comparison.


.
Safety pin:


.

 

Thanks. I will try and do this today or tomorrow morning. I will let you know what I find

 

I got .39 volts on 1 and 3--that was with the meter set to capture max and min voltage......wiggled the harness and could not get it to hiccup. It runs perfect when it's cold.

 

Sounds like an Auto Ranging meter. I don't like those things. I prefer the Manual Ranging meters. I have no idea what .39 Volts would mean.

 

I used a fluke 287.....I read it 3 times and kept getting the same reading....the meter was reading .15......the .39 is a spike that the minimum maximum setting detected.....I don't know what is normal. The #2 slot was reading around 12.5 (can't remember exactly) .

 

#2 slot should be what ever the battery voltage is, but must stay above 12.3v for it to work correctly. the other voltages you reported, is that with it running?

 

did you follow the directions from post number 7? if you did, then those readings are either false or bupkis

 

I understand what's happening. Brain fart on my part.


#2 pin cav is the battery voltage from the ASD relay. 12.5 volts is good.


You are reading the PCM ground driver circuits, which would be about right. Chrysler uses what they call a live ground. This can be seen in the 5 volt engine management sensors ground wires (Brown/Yellow tracer wires). These usually show a voltage from .015 to .020 volts.


I think if you back probed the #1, #3. or #4 wires with the connector hooked up you may see a higher voltage when cranking the engine.


As a side bar, the voltmeter should have a 10 MegOhm impedance (10 million Ohms resistance) for use on these Jeep circuits.

 

I thought I followed it to the T...maybe I messed up? I removed the fuel pump relay and disconnected the harness from the coil rail. I connected the negative lead from my meter the the negative terminal on the battery, then put the positive lead (with safety pin attached) into slot 3 while someone cranked the engine (obviously it will not start with the fuel pump relay removed). I moved the pin around while it was being cranked in case holding it in place was not getting a good connection. I repeated this 3 times......I am checking the wiring harness, connector end, not the coil rail itself. Please let me know if I am doing this wrong.