P0122, p0171 after engine swap
#1
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Year: 99
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P0122, p0171 after engine swap
Hi all,
I wanted to make this issue more specific for other reader's. Recently I have swapped engines and now I have a p0122 code, and p0171 once the engine is up to temp. I'm in a 99 xj auto with a new banks header, new plugs, cap, Rotor.
I took all 99 parts and put them onto the donor engine.
I've tried adding front jumper cable to starter bolt-battery negative, tested fuel pressure before and after running(49 psi). All injectors ohm test 12.5-12.9ohm. the motor sounds like a bad drag car once warm.
I've been using a Bluedriver scanner and this is my current display when warmed up:
now I need to know what/where to check and HOW to check, 02, vacuum or anything I need to check. I'm completely new to this stuff and I've gone this project alone. I just want my only wheels back and running, so I'm all ears for how to proceed.
thank you all for any assistance !!!!
I wanted to make this issue more specific for other reader's. Recently I have swapped engines and now I have a p0122 code, and p0171 once the engine is up to temp. I'm in a 99 xj auto with a new banks header, new plugs, cap, Rotor.
I took all 99 parts and put them onto the donor engine.
I've tried adding front jumper cable to starter bolt-battery negative, tested fuel pressure before and after running(49 psi). All injectors ohm test 12.5-12.9ohm. the motor sounds like a bad drag car once warm.
I've been using a Bluedriver scanner and this is my current display when warmed up:
now I need to know what/where to check and HOW to check, 02, vacuum or anything I need to check. I'm completely new to this stuff and I've gone this project alone. I just want my only wheels back and running, so I'm all ears for how to proceed.
thank you all for any assistance !!!!
Last edited by 4x4jeepmanthing; 02-27-2019 at 12:47 AM.
#2
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Model: Cherokee(XJ)
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Wow! That is super lean.
So, I have to check, but my MAP typically reads around 36 kPa or so at idle. The higher pressure reading on your MAP suggests more air coming into the system (i.e. less vacuum), but unmetered air typically causes rich (negative) conditions in the LTFT.
What is the LTFT in closed loop and what does your upstream O2S voltage look like?
Did you hit the throttle when everything spikes?
Don't run it too long with trims like that btw.
So, I have to check, but my MAP typically reads around 36 kPa or so at idle. The higher pressure reading on your MAP suggests more air coming into the system (i.e. less vacuum), but unmetered air typically causes rich (negative) conditions in the LTFT.
What is the LTFT in closed loop and what does your upstream O2S voltage look like?
Did you hit the throttle when everything spikes?
Don't run it too long with trims like that btw.
#3
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This is upon start??, no idea what I'm looking at.
is Ltft not what the picture shows 32%?? Yes I did hit the throttle when it spiked, this aided to it running poorer, quicker than of it let it idle to poor running.
I run it only to where it is running bad then shut it down.
how do I find 02 voltage as you aaked?
WHAT is going on with this thing, what should I do next?
Wow! That is super lean.
So, I have to check, but my MAP typically reads around 36 kPa or so at idle. The higher pressure reading on your MAP suggests more air coming into the system (i.e. less vacuum), but unmetered air typically causes rich (negative) conditions in the LTFT.
What is the LTFT in closed loop and what does your upstream O2S voltage look like?
Did you hit the throttle when everything spikes?
Don't run it too long with trims like that btw.
So, I have to check, but my MAP typically reads around 36 kPa or so at idle. The higher pressure reading on your MAP suggests more air coming into the system (i.e. less vacuum), but unmetered air typically causes rich (negative) conditions in the LTFT.
What is the LTFT in closed loop and what does your upstream O2S voltage look like?
Did you hit the throttle when everything spikes?
Don't run it too long with trims like that btw.
I run it only to where it is running bad then shut it down.
how do I find 02 voltage as you aaked?
WHAT is going on with this thing, what should I do next?
Last edited by 4x4jeepmanthing; 02-26-2019 at 07:05 PM.
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Model: Cherokee(XJ)
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is Ltft not what the picture shows 32%?? Yes I did hit the throttle when it spiked, this aided to it running poorer, quicker than of it let it idle to poor running.
I run it only to where it is running bad then shut it down. WHAT is going on with this thing, what should I do next?
I run it only to where it is running bad then shut it down. WHAT is going on with this thing, what should I do next?
Open loop is default engine operation that is stored in the computer. If those values appear normal than it suggests a sensor has gone bad.
Knowing little more than what you posted here and the picture, I am going to go out on a limb and say check your intake/exhaust manifold gasket and make sure you used the proper sequence to torque the bolts.
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Turn off you coolant temp. Keep on the MAP, add the O2S voltage bank 1 sensor 1, and long term and short term fuel trims from the main list.
Blue driver is slow if you monitor more than 5 at a time.
Blue driver is slow if you monitor more than 5 at a time.
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We already know that you have a super lean condition. Your fuel trims and P0122 code are telling you that. Your MAP is also suggesting that there is air entering the system and reducing the vacuum on sensor.
I was just seeing what your trims were in open loop before all the sensors are communicating back to the ECU. Based on how lean you are running I feel like its a physical issue, not sensor driven.
I was just seeing what your trims were in open loop before all the sensors are communicating back to the ECU. Based on how lean you are running I feel like its a physical issue, not sensor driven.
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#8
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a vacuum gauge is an inexpensive tool that will show a major vacuum leak, and many other engine issues
if you have a intake gasket issue, ether spray should cause the engine rpm to surge
if you have a intake gasket issue, ether spray should cause the engine rpm to surge
#10
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I am not aware of how an O2 issue could be generated in the exhaust system, unless you had an obvious (audible) exhaust leak
if there is an air leak in the intake system, old skool basic diagnosis applies
you may even want to check Youtube on using smoke to test for a leak on the intake side...especially if you smoke, cigs, cigars, or you might be needing a herbal remedy by now
if there is an air leak in the intake system, old skool basic diagnosis applies
you may even want to check Youtube on using smoke to test for a leak on the intake side...especially if you smoke, cigs, cigars, or you might be needing a herbal remedy by now
#11
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I am not aware of how an O2 issue could be generated in the exhaust system, unless you had an obvious (audible) exhaust leak
if there is an air leak in the intake system, old skool basic diagnosis applies
you may even want to check Youtube on using smoke to test for a leak on the intake side...especially if you smoke, cigs, cigars, or you might be needing a herbal remedy by now
if there is an air leak in the intake system, old skool basic diagnosis applies
you may even want to check Youtube on using smoke to test for a leak on the intake side...especially if you smoke, cigs, cigars, or you might be needing a herbal remedy by now
#12
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did the truck run perfectly at anytime after the swap, and then the fault developed ?
there is an issue with intake manifold not seated on dowels, engine usually revs way too high
#13
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well it probably couldnt hurt, but not unless I had a reason, such as above stated tests indicating a leak.. which will be quicker
did the truck run perfectly at anytime after the swap, and then the fault developed ?
there is an issue with intake manifold not seated on dowels, engine usually revs way too high
did the truck run perfectly at anytime after the swap, and then the fault developed ?
there is an issue with intake manifold not seated on dowels, engine usually revs way too high
#14
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I've tried spraying crc (50 state formula) carb cleaner over all vacuum lines, against the block where the manifold mates, with no luck of stalling the engine/ rpm increase or indication of a leak. Maybe it's the wrong stuff, would propane be a good option?
Last edited by 4x4jeepmanthing; 02-27-2019 at 07:20 AM.
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Should the FSM give ideal readings for sensors, if so can some one help point me toward which section I should look at please.
I tried checking the o2 sensor grounded to battery, but I'm clearly doing something wrong because much I couldn't register an ohm reading from.
should I check the harness of the 02 sensor at it's plug in?
I tried checking the o2 sensor grounded to battery, but I'm clearly doing something wrong because much I couldn't register an ohm reading from.
should I check the harness of the 02 sensor at it's plug in?
Last edited by 4x4jeepmanthing; 02-28-2019 at 08:52 AM.