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Oreilleys new fuel pump

Old 02-14-2019, 11:47 AM
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Default Oreilleys new fuel pump

My fuel pump went out the other day so I got one from oreilleys, brand is import direct. Since its been in it has been stalling every once in a while, it's even died at slow idle. Would y'all think I just happened to get a faulty fuel pump. Should I take it back. It has a year's manufacturers warranty.
or should I check something else before taking it out? It did not stall and quit before with old pump until day it quit on me. Any advice would be appreciated
thanks
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:54 PM
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O'Reilly's has a free rental program that includes a fuel pressure tester. If the fuel pressure is low, then just return the pump for another one.

I have no idea what year your vehicle is so I have no idea whether you have a fuel filter and screen that need to be separately replaced. Those could be impediments to fuel pressure, but they are different beasts on different years and submodels. Also, there could be a fuel pressure regular that isn't functioning correctly. That also depends on that same information, though.
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Old 02-14-2019, 02:00 PM
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1996, 2.5l fuel filter was also changed this 4 cylinder does not have fuel pressure regulator. I have fuel pressure gauge I can check that, I'm just wonder if I have an intermirting problem with pump. It used to not do that until last pump decided to crap out. Thanks for quick reply. Will check pressures.
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Old 02-14-2019, 02:22 PM
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I've never had a 2.5L Jeep. I'm guessing that with model year 1996 that the pump was a full assembly with the sock as the filter and the pressure regulator at the top of the assembly above the pump. You can test the voltage at the pins of the connector to ensure that the old and new pumps have been receiving full voltage and full ground.
If your tank shows the top of the assembly, then you are in luck and won't have to drop the tank to check the voltages and (dis)continuities at the point of connection.
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Old 02-14-2019, 02:25 PM
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That correct tank does not need to be dropped to change pump, I'll do some testing when I get home maybe I can see something wrong. Thanks
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:25 PM
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So the pump mounts on the front of the tank on that 96. Fuel pressure regulator is near the radiator on the front of the fuel rail, with a vacuum line to it?. For sure, like said check the pressure. Like said, it's free to "borrow" a gauge. That likely has an exterior filter mounted there on the body near the tank BTW. Back-flushing or changing that might be a thought. (do know lots changed in 96, you can't get a FSM for that year) Others have posted with issues finding a pump for a 96, but if your regulator is on the rail you are likely good there.
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Old 02-14-2019, 10:39 PM
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Well it left me stranded near a buddy's house, luckily he had pressure gauge and it's pumping 50lb plus... But still not starting... I'll have to see what other things may be wrong with it
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Old 02-15-2019, 02:06 PM
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I used a database and found for a 1996 Cherokee Classic is 47.0-51.0 p.s.i. You should be fine at 50 p.s.i. How did you determine that the old pump was at fault?

I'd try to run down a no start condition testing list.
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Old 02-15-2019, 06:40 PM
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If it's stalling at idle I would rule out TPS and crank sensor before replacing a pump. Usually the only symptom of the bad pump is long crank/no start. I know you already did the part swap but if nothing has changed, do some basic electrical tests before you throw parts at it
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:40 AM
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No fire at coil installed new one and it runs, but now runs bad. Got 3 codes
p1389 no asd relay voltage
P1282 fuel pump control circuit
P0351 ignition coil "a" circuit
I'm thinking I just have bad conection to coil maybe, or weak relays any one have any of then codes before
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Old 02-16-2019, 01:44 PM
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I'd leave the battery disconnected for a bit to ensure that it doesn't just reset things.

I've never had the codes. You can check the relay and the points of connection for it as well. Relays are cheap and it is worth traveling with one in the glove box. You can use the relay from the cooling fan in place of the automatic shutdown's relay. Do you have diagrams to check for good grounds and shorts and opens along those things?

If your coil went out, then I'd check the rotor, cap, plugs, and wires to ensure that they are still good.
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Old 02-16-2019, 01:54 PM
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Picked up 2 relays, replaced fuel pump and ads relays. drove 14 miles no hiccup, seems that it was a relay going out. Fingers crossed that that is it. Thanks for everyone's help.
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Victor Rios View Post
Picked up 2 relays, replaced fuel pump and ads relays. drove 14 miles no hiccup, seems that it was a relay going out. Fingers crossed that that is it. Thanks for everyone's help.
Keep the fuel pump's relay handy (in the glove box) since that one was probably good. Also, your old pump in case you didn't already ****can it. Let's hope that this solves it. Post in a week or two. Did all of your codes go away as well?
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Old 02-17-2019, 05:56 PM
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Guess I'm learning, (or not), that the Renix stile front mount pump with the regulator on the front of the rail delivers 50# for a 96. New and confusing to me. (29 or 39# depending on the vacuum to the regulator is normal for that the earlier front mount pumps.) The later higher pressure top mounted doesn't have a vac line to the regulator as far as I know.
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Old 02-18-2019, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone View Post
Guess I'm learning, (or not), that the Renix stile front mount pump with the regulator on the front of the rail delivers 50# for a 96. New and confusing to me. (29 or 39# depending on the vacuum to the regulator is normal for that the earlier front mount pumps.) The later higher pressure top mounted doesn't have a vac line to the regulator as far as I know.
Does the 1996 not have the fuel rail without a return because the fuel pump assembly has the pressure regulator?
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