Chick-N-Picker

89 XJ 4x4 auto 4.0 102,000 miles.

Well I've been reading about motor mounts and I've came across people saying that the passenger side has a factory default that doesn't let the bracket or mount sit right. Causing stress that will snap the bolt or brake a part off the block. Now I'm scared it going to happen to me.

Is there a way to fix it?

When I change my mounts (very soon) should I reach in and make sure everything is tight against the block?

Hyper-ventalating, hyper-ventalating, in, out, in, out.

4.3L XJ

I think the best way to fix that is with Brown Dog motor mounts. They use more bolt holes in the block so are stronger

Chick-N-Picker

I had read that but I think it's the brackets not actually the motor mounts but was wondering if there was any other way because those brown dog motor mount brackets are kind of expensive for a dude on a budget....but if it's the only way then I'll pray and at some point change to them.

I would assume keeping the motor mounts changed would help keep this from happening even if it's cheap OEM style and just change them once a year. Got to at least help.

s346k

idk man. my xj has ~270k on it. i replaced only the drivers side mount around 150k, i used an $8 anchor mount. i’ve had no issues with anything. although i imagine age will bring greater stress than consistent use. take 10 minutes to crawl under and check yours out, it may ease your mind.

edit - point being: the passenger side is the factory original everything and appears to be undamaged.

Chick-N-Picker

Anybody got opinions or reviews of these motor mounts. I searched and can't find anything but the style is very similar to Brown Dog's and for $55 for a pair are a fairly more affordable.

https://m.autozone.com/external-engi..._917676_0?aqs=

cruiser54

It's so simple.

Remove the bolts from the motor mount bracket to engine one by one. Add a flat washer under the bolt and tighten it back in.

The problem was that the threaded hole in the block wasn't threaded deep enough. Pretty much limited to the HO engines BTW, but worth checking.

Chick-N-Picker

Oh, ok. The thread I reaad didn't say exactly what the default was, just something about a bolt breaking the block. That's why I didn't know exactly what to say in the OP.

Thank you, that does sound simple enough.

cruiser54

You'll be able to see if the bolts were bottoming out, which is doubtful.

Sorry to deprive you of your paranoia.........................LOL.

dave1123

Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they are not out to get you! LMAO!

Chick-N-Picker

Well the paranoia ain't over....haha. I should probably quit reading so many threads.

What thermostat should I get?

I was reading a thread from a few years ago (you were in it) where somebody was saying they quit making the mopar T-stat that you always said to get. They were talking about it changed to motorad.
Anyway, when I put in your original parts number in google it does pull it up still (some say replacement) but none of the stores carry the original. You can check your original part number and see what you think. Basically, I want consistent temps and am stuck wondering what t-stat to get, IF IN FACT they no longer make the original one.

Also do you have any opinions on motor mounts? I don't know if I've ever seen your thoughts on OEM style mounts in the threads I read.

I need to quit reading so many threads....

dave1123

I've always used Stant Superstats in all my vehicles and never had a problem with them. They open gradually so they don't shock the block with instant cold water. Before using them, I'd notice in the winter, the gauge would come up to temp, then suddenly drop when the stat opened. Superstats don't do that. You don't need a bleed hole because the heater core is a coolant bypass when the thermo is closed, IF you don't have the heater control valve. Use a 195* t-stat because the mixture control is designed for best mix at that temp.

Chick-N-Picker

Ok. I found this on Amazon and few other websites. Most ask in the questions if it really just a motorad sold as a Mopar part. On some sites some have said when they receive theirs, it's just a motorad. This particular one the seller states it's a true Mopar but who really knows.

I called the Jeep dealer and he said he could get it for $40! I was thinking it might be around 20-25. And who knows maybe it is a motorad.

I hate to say it but I may just go ahead and pick one up at the local autoparts store. No way I'm paying that much for a thermostat that might not even be the real thing. So, since they may or may not make the original, I might have to go against Cruiser's thermostat advice because the option is not available.

Here is the link.

XjJunky

Ironman4x4 motor mounts and change the trans mount at the same time. I used a mopar trans mount. $47 and some change shipped from east coast to western colorado. I would highly advise against cheap aftermarket trans mount.

Chick-N-Picker

Dude I'm on suck a tight budget right now I'll use a piece of wood in between the cross member and trannsmission as a mount......hahahaha.

I will probably get whatever the best mount the local parts store has in stock that's between $10-20. I am having to do so much to this thing at once, but it has to be better than the old one. Hopefully it will buy me a year so I can get all the other stuff out of the way.

fb97xj1

Avoid Anchor brand transmission mounts at all costs. That block of wood you mentioned would be an upgrade compared to one of those lol.