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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
recently i've been noticing the top of my engine has been looking fairly 'wet', more so near the end of the head rather than the front. also near the bolts on the side it looks like its been wet there as well. is this the dreaded cracked head i've heard about on these models? the vacuum thing and that back moves pretty easy so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. is this cause for concern? sorry if this is completely normal and silly, this is my first vehicle so i'm still learning about all this stuff
Mine was doing that also. Found that the oil filler cap was not sealing good anymore & let oil get out on the valve cover. I replaced the cap, and it dried up !
Mine was doing that also. Found that the oil filler cap was not sealing good anymore & let oil get out on the valve cover. I replaced the cap, and it dried up !
hopefully it's just that, i'll grab a new cap tomorrow (mines broken anyhow) and see if that does it - thanks!
a good chance that the seals on the oil cap, and the CCV ports have dried up, i have had the same issue as well, i replaced the oil cap and reseal the other two with some sealant.
Just so you'll know, a sudden loss of coolant that seems to not be a leak and milky oil or large amounts of steam from the tailpipe are sure signs of a cracked head. The 0331 head usually cracks between the #3 and #4 cylinders in between the 2 valves directly under the oil filler cap. If you suspect it's cracked, you can shine a strong light down the oil cap and see a green line or visible coolant in that location. Not all 0331 heads crack, but most do at one time or other, right about the 150K mile mark. Mine lasted until 175K and then only cracked into an exhaust port, not into the valve area. I got lucky because coolant will destroy engine bearings quickly. During the 02 production run, jeep produced a new head to replace the 0331 called the "TUPY" head. It's still an 0331, but with more nickel in the cast metal. There are also aftermarket heads, the most popular of which is the "Clearwater" head made by Odessa Cylinder Heads in Clearwater FL. Here's a picture if the "TUPY" head and the crack usually appears right where the "TUPY" is cast into it. Notice the 0331 cast into the new head as well.
FWIW - If the "wetness" you're referring to is oily residue around the CCV/PCV things (the 2 things on the valve cover the hoses attach to), then it's probably seeping past the seals as others have mentioned. A little seepage is not an emergency situation and many people never fix the problem and just live with an oily engine.
I would certainly start with the new oil cap (I hated the oil cap on my 00 TJ - it was a nightmare to get off and got leaky) and then you can replace the grommets (the rubber part in the valve cover where the CCV/PCV hoses are), but as someone mentioned in another recent post, you'll want to remove the valve cover to make it easier to remove and replace.
I'll second Dave's advice on the 0331 head checks. Another option is to do a lab analysis on the oil (Blackstone labs is the most frequently recommended) to keep an eye on the engine condition.
Also FWIW - My 00 TJ with the 0331 head went 302k without cracking and as far as I know it's still running great today.
Good idea, PatHenry. Pulling the valve cover is the easiest way to replace those grommets and then he'll have to use a new valve cover gasket which is another possible source of leaks. I used a Victor Reinz steel and neoprene sandwich gasket on mine which is supposed to be reusable and it hasn't leaked in 50K miles.
The thing with the oil cap is don't turn it until it clicks, but just until it stops. If you turn it until it clicks when it's cold, you'll have problems getting it off when it's hot.
Just so you'll know, a sudden loss of coolant that seems to not be a leak and milky oil or large amounts of steam from the tailpipe are sure signs of a cracked head. The 0331 head usually cracks between the #3 and #4 cylinders in between the 2 valves directly under the oil filler cap. If you suspect it's cracked, you can shine a strong light down the oil cap and see a green line or visible coolant in that location. Not all 0331 heads crack, but most do at one time or other, right about the 150K mile mark. Mine lasted until 175K and then only cracked into an exhaust port, not into the valve area. I got lucky because coolant will destroy engine bearings quickly. During the 02 production run, jeep produced a new head to replace the 0331 called the "TUPY" head. It's still an 0331, but with more nickel in the cast metal. There are also aftermarket heads, the most popular of which is the "Clearwater" head made by Odessa Cylinder Heads in Clearwater FL. Here's a picture if the "TUPY" head and the crack usually appears right where the "TUPY" is cast into it. Notice the 0331 cast into the new head as well.
thanks for the info! i'll check that after work. really hope it's not that. if everything looks good with the head is there any preventative measures I can take so I can prolong the head from cracking or is it inevitable?
Originally Posted by PatHenry
FWIW - If the "wetness" you're referring to is oily residue around the CCV/PCV things (the 2 things on the valve cover the hoses attach to), then it's probably seeping past the seals as others have mentioned. A little seepage is not an emergency situation and many people never fix the problem and just live with an oily engine.
I would certainly start with the new oil cap (I hated the oil cap on my 00 TJ - it was a nightmare to get off and got leaky) and then you can replace the grommets (the rubber part in the valve cover where the CCV/PCV hoses are), but as someone mentioned in another recent post, you'll want to remove the valve cover to make it easier to remove and replace.
I'll second Dave's advice on the 0331 head checks. Another option is to do a lab analysis on the oil (Blackstone labs is the most frequently recommended) to keep an eye on the engine condition.
Also FWIW - My 00 TJ with the 0331 head went 302k without cracking and as far as I know it's still running great today.
I think I might have to do the PCV things, I changed the cap and it's still getting a bit wet. Do the grommets and pcv elbow things just pull out from the top? I don't really want to force anything out
The grommets get hard and start to leak. If you just pull on the elbows you'll wind up breaking them. You may be able to soften them up with a little brake fluid, but they will be worthless after doing that. I had a guy tell me he used brake fluid to get the elbows out, then pried the grommets out while they were still soft. I couldn't say this works because I've never done it, but it may.
11-23-2018, 01:43 PM
oil on top of engine
