oil pan removal...
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.SLOW
oil pan removal...
Okay..
I have the oil pan separated from the block on my jeep but.....
HOW IN THE HECK DO I GET IT TO CLEAR THE AXLE!?!?!?!?!?!
Every time before I had plenty of clearance from a lift but on this it is at stock height....
Does anybody have any info or tips/tricks???
FYI - it's a straight 6 with the 5 speed..
Thanks guys/girls!
I have the oil pan separated from the block on my jeep but.....
HOW IN THE HECK DO I GET IT TO CLEAR THE AXLE!?!?!?!?!?!
Every time before I had plenty of clearance from a lift but on this it is at stock height....
Does anybody have any info or tips/tricks???
FYI - it's a straight 6 with the 5 speed..
Thanks guys/girls!
#4
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0H.O. I6
Been there... replacing rear main seal. I would say the seal took a couple minutes but the pan was an ordeal. I would agree with the above comments jack the jeep up and let the axle drop as much as possible and just walk it back. Prepare yourself because it took me twice as long to get the freaking thing back on with the new gasket and seal drying and getting all over me and everything under the jeep.
#5
I have a completely different solution that worked for my 1997. It is simple, but counter-intuitive until you really think about it.
1. Jack and support on the frame. You have already done this.
2. Put your jack on the front differential and RAISE the axle just a little -- about 3 or 4 inches.
Here is why it works. When your axle droops, it droops in an arc -- not straight down. In other words, when the axle droops, it also moves toward the rear of the jeep. When you raise the axle a few inches, you also move it FORWARD. The key is not for the axle to droop more, but to move it forward more.
As I said before -- this worked on my 1997 heep that is bone stock. Other years or mods may make it different.
1. Jack and support on the frame. You have already done this.
2. Put your jack on the front differential and RAISE the axle just a little -- about 3 or 4 inches.
Here is why it works. When your axle droops, it droops in an arc -- not straight down. In other words, when the axle droops, it also moves toward the rear of the jeep. When you raise the axle a few inches, you also move it FORWARD. The key is not for the axle to droop more, but to move it forward more.
As I said before -- this worked on my 1997 heep that is bone stock. Other years or mods may make it different.
#6
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
[quote=javajeep;198999]I have a completely different solution that worked for my 1997. It is simple, but counter-intuitive until you really think about it.
1. Jack and support on the frame. You have already done this.
2. Put your jack on the front differential and RAISE the axle just a little -- about 3 or 4 inches.
Here is why it works. When your axle droops, it droops in an arc -- not straight down. In other words, when the axle droops, it also moves toward the rear of the jeep. When you raise the axle a few inches, you also move it FORWARD. The key is not for the axle to droop more, but to move it forward more.
Hmm that sounds interesting I have to give it a try next time I do an oil pan on my son in laws 89...Tj
1. Jack and support on the frame. You have already done this.
2. Put your jack on the front differential and RAISE the axle just a little -- about 3 or 4 inches.
Here is why it works. When your axle droops, it droops in an arc -- not straight down. In other words, when the axle droops, it also moves toward the rear of the jeep. When you raise the axle a few inches, you also move it FORWARD. The key is not for the axle to droop more, but to move it forward more.
Hmm that sounds interesting I have to give it a try next time I do an oil pan on my son in laws 89...Tj
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#8
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
1) Support front end at "frame" rails (at the end of the control arms) to allow the axle to droop fully.
2) You may use the bottle jack (the one for changing tyres) to force the axle downwards more than gravity pulls it to get an extra inch or so - probably not more than two.
3) You can also remove the nuts from the transmission mount-to-crossmember studs and lift the rear end of the drivetrain up with your floor jack - this can change the angle of the pickup tube (in your favour) and pick you up about an inch of clearance as well.
2) You may use the bottle jack (the one for changing tyres) to force the axle downwards more than gravity pulls it to get an extra inch or so - probably not more than two.
3) You can also remove the nuts from the transmission mount-to-crossmember studs and lift the rear end of the drivetrain up with your floor jack - this can change the angle of the pickup tube (in your favour) and pick you up about an inch of clearance as well.
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