Front axle questions - D30
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Front axle questions - D30
So yesterday after inspecting my suspension I noticed the passenger side mount on my front axle is badly cracked (was welded once before i bought the jeep) and in need of replacement. My Jeep is a 94 4.0 w/abs even though the light is always on...heh. Anyways, does this mean I can only use new assembly that were also originally equipped with ABS? Whats the difference between ABS and non-ABS? Also, where do I look to see if Im a vacuum disco axle or the other kind. Are they interchangeable? Whats the pros/cons of each? Ill be doing this swap in the driveway so if anyone has any advice it'd be greatly appreciated...I havent done this big of a job before so it should be interesting...
I dont have a pic of the damage yet, Ill take one when it gets light out...but this is the bracket Im talking about.
Thanks!
I dont have a pic of the damage yet, Ill take one when it gets light out...but this is the bracket Im talking about.
Thanks!
#2
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From what I see your not a vac disco. I had one and it gave me nothing but problems till I thru a single shaft in. But thats where your track bar bolts up. know anybody thats welds?
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Year: 1994
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looks like a sway bar link is missing? If its a auto trans the gear ratio is likely to be 3.55. The disco diff. was gone in like 90 I think it has drawbacks anyway I would get a 91 and up diff. Try car-part.com or craigslist. Im not 100% sure but I think you can use a non abs diff too if your not concerned about abs.
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Year: 1991
Engine: 4.0 I-6 H.O.
I think the vac disco axle was used till 91, my 91 has one unfortunately
as far as abs, the sensor would be on the hub or close to the rotor usually, but Im not too familiar with the abs system on the XJs
as far as abs, the sensor would be on the hub or close to the rotor usually, but Im not too familiar with the abs system on the XJs
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Thanks for the info guys. Im actually getting it welded back together right now, hopefully that will hold for a while but it doesnt look like any hard wheeling is going to be coming my way soon...heh. The sway bar link is missing, it was like that when I bought it. I have a pair of JKS Quicker Disco's sittin in my room, just waiting for some nice weather so I can go outside and cut off the rusted bolt in the lower hole so I can install them. I just drive around the city right now which is pretty low speed so I dont have any sway issues....def. wouldnt ride around on the highway though...
So so far it seems like I need an abs or non-abs with no vac and 3.55 gears. I could care less about abs. What are my options for the axle itself? Is it worth it to upgrade the front without doing the rear? If so what can I use other than a D30 with the least amount of fabrication? Same goes for the rear if I go that way I guess. Thanks again for the replies!
So so far it seems like I need an abs or non-abs with no vac and 3.55 gears. I could care less about abs. What are my options for the axle itself? Is it worth it to upgrade the front without doing the rear? If so what can I use other than a D30 with the least amount of fabrication? Same goes for the rear if I go that way I guess. Thanks again for the replies!
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I just got done installing one of these last night. Got a jeep for my bro, and axle was bent on pass side. Plan on a good 5 hours for the install.
I would put another D30 in there. Should be plenty to choose from and cheap. 92+ is non disco. 94+ (I think) has the 297 u-joints. 95+ for sure. Go w/that. Stronger. I got my axle from the pullnpay for $76.
If you have access to a sawzall, take that w/you to the jy, and cut through the control arms, and other linkages. It took me about 10 mins to pull it, vs an hour, last time when I unbolted everything.
I would put another D30 in there. Should be plenty to choose from and cheap. 92+ is non disco. 94+ (I think) has the 297 u-joints. 95+ for sure. Go w/that. Stronger. I got my axle from the pullnpay for $76.
If you have access to a sawzall, take that w/you to the jy, and cut through the control arms, and other linkages. It took me about 10 mins to pull it, vs an hour, last time when I unbolted everything.
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Year: 1996
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as a good temp fix you could get new lower control arm brackets that weld onto the aaxle or you could gusset them like i did. not sure why you plan on doing a full axle swap at the moment. what else is wrong with the axle? but it is a pretty easy job. un-bolt then re-bolt. then bleed your brakes and get an alignment. just make sure its all torqued down and then check it after your first wheeling trip or first 100-500 miles. with that amount of rust start praying everything with penetrating oil.
Last edited by 96_xj; 03-15-2010 at 12:29 PM.
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#8
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Year: 1994
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Well, got an ugly and temporary fix that should get me by for easy on her, day to day driving. Gotta start planning whether its worth it to keep it and put in a new axle, or cut my losses and start fresh. Bleh... The red lines are where it was cracking and pulling apart in the direction of the arrow. He couldnt really get any welds to take but he filled it in the best he could and went around the entire bracket once to help...so we'll see how long it holds. Guess I better fill out that AAA card thats sittin on my dresser.
Thanks again for all the replies and if I do go to a pull a part, a sawzall it is. Damn good idea!
Thanks again for all the replies and if I do go to a pull a part, a sawzall it is. Damn good idea!
#9
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Year: 1994
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the last front diff. I bought I paid the junk yard guy $30 to pull it. I would have gladly paid a $100 to not have busted up hands and risk death due to falling car.
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