OEM Driving/Fog lights not working
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
OEM Driving/Fog lights not working
As long as we've had the XJ they factory fog/ driving lights have not worked.
Not sure if the switch has a built in light to show you if the switch is on or not. Switch does not light up.
I have searched the forum for troubleshooting procedures for this and have not had much luck in finding an answer, although I found plenty of mod info.
Could someone please give a detailed testing procedure for this? Keep in mind I am inept at using a multi meter. Electronics is not my strong suit. Time to learn something new today. Take me to school.
Not sure if the switch has a built in light to show you if the switch is on or not. Switch does not light up.
I have searched the forum for troubleshooting procedures for this and have not had much luck in finding an answer, although I found plenty of mod info.
Could someone please give a detailed testing procedure for this? Keep in mind I am inept at using a multi meter. Electronics is not my strong suit. Time to learn something new today. Take me to school.
#2
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
You do know they only work when headlights are on low beam, right?
#4
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Year: 1990
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Here's how to use a multi-meter:
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/
#5
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Year: 1999
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The switch appears to have a dot where it should light up. It never does. I'll start with the fusebox and make sure that it has a fuse and that it's good. Would the next place to look be at the switch itself? or go right to the lights ?
#6
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Those switches are known to melt inside. If the green light is not lit then you most likely have a no power situation or a bad switch. Its easy to get at the switch. Just pull off the center panel and youre right there. Then you can unplug the switch and check the wires for power.
#7
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Year: 1999
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Here's where I'm at so far.
The switch has 4 wires in the following order.
Orange (12V with lights on)
Light Blue (0V)
Light Purple (0V)
Black (0V)
Moving the switch from off to on has no effect on the measured voltage.
The Blue light inside does work.
I think there are pieces missing from inside the switch itself.
Upon taking the switch apart I have 1 spring in the bottom corner and a spring loaded bus bar that moves up and down with the switch. That's all that is inside. I have 12 volts inside the switch running to the Blue bulb.
Using this diagram
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...tification.htm
I see no fuse for the fog lamps.
I read on another diagram that fuse 7 also includes the fogs, but being that I have marker lights, parking lights ect. Either the fuse is not the issue or the information is incorrect.
The Relay receptacle has 5 prongs. Only prong 4 has 12 V with the headlamps on. Upon probing the A/C relay next to it, I have 12V on prong 3. Yet both relays have the same Diagram and prong orientation.
The switch has 4 wires in the following order.
Orange (12V with lights on)
Light Blue (0V)
Light Purple (0V)
Black (0V)
Moving the switch from off to on has no effect on the measured voltage.
The Blue light inside does work.
I think there are pieces missing from inside the switch itself.
Upon taking the switch apart I have 1 spring in the bottom corner and a spring loaded bus bar that moves up and down with the switch. That's all that is inside. I have 12 volts inside the switch running to the Blue bulb.
Using this diagram
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...tification.htm
I see no fuse for the fog lamps.
I read on another diagram that fuse 7 also includes the fogs, but being that I have marker lights, parking lights ect. Either the fuse is not the issue or the information is incorrect.
The Relay receptacle has 5 prongs. Only prong 4 has 12 V with the headlamps on. Upon probing the A/C relay next to it, I have 12V on prong 3. Yet both relays have the same Diagram and prong orientation.
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#8
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Those switches are known to melt inside. If the green light is not lit then you most likely have a no power situation or a bad switch. Its easy to get at the switch. Just pull off the center panel and youre right there. Then you can unplug the switch and check the wires for power.
#11
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FYI, for future reference, that's not relevant. It's a standard relay, and can be used in many different configurations. You cannot measure voltage on one relay and assume the one next to it should be the same.
#12
The orange wire that you're getting 12v on is for the switch illumination only. It lights up when you turn the headlights on. Here's a breakdown of the wires on the back of the switch. Also, the switch is about $40-$50 at the dealer. You can rebuild yours very easy using a rear defrost switch or rear wiper switch from the junk yard. These switches use the same internals. I just did mine recently and save myself some money.
97+ Front Fog Lamp Switch Pin-out
#1 - Orange - Fused Panel Lamps Dimmer Switch Signal
#2 - Light Blue - Fog Lamp Switch Output
#3 - Violet - Fog Lamp Relay Output (or your 12V+ input if you're bypassing the factory fog lamp circuit)
#4 - Black - Ground
97+ Front Fog Lamp Switch Pin-out
#1 - Orange - Fused Panel Lamps Dimmer Switch Signal
#2 - Light Blue - Fog Lamp Switch Output
#3 - Violet - Fog Lamp Relay Output (or your 12V+ input if you're bypassing the factory fog lamp circuit)
#4 - Black - Ground
Last edited by rnmcguire; 01-19-2014 at 07:46 PM. Reason: spelling
#14
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L