O2 sensor error codes, but which sensor?
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O2 sensor error codes, but which sensor?
Hi all,
I have a 2000 XJ with ~200k miles on it and the CEL just came on. P0138 and P0141, both relating to one of the O2 sensors. Specifically the heater circuit of the sensor I think. Anyway since I have a 2000 and it has Cali emissions or whatever there's 2 precats, 1 main cat and 4 oxygen sensors. 2 upstream of the precats and 2 downstream.
P0138 and P0141 both relate to Bank 1 Sensor 2, but which one is that? I know sensor 2 is downstream, but is bank 1 the front 3 cylinders, or rear 3?
Thanks guys!
I have a 2000 XJ with ~200k miles on it and the CEL just came on. P0138 and P0141, both relating to one of the O2 sensors. Specifically the heater circuit of the sensor I think. Anyway since I have a 2000 and it has Cali emissions or whatever there's 2 precats, 1 main cat and 4 oxygen sensors. 2 upstream of the precats and 2 downstream.
P0138 and P0141 both relate to Bank 1 Sensor 2, but which one is that? I know sensor 2 is downstream, but is bank 1 the front 3 cylinders, or rear 3?
Thanks guys!
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Re-opening this for some more info.
So apparently one of the previous owners chopped off the harness connector for that particular O2 sensor and hard-wired the sensor in. The harness side has different colored wires than the O2 sensor (which has a black, grey and 2 white wires). Anyone have a wiring diagram for this?
I've also heard that you can't solder O2 sensor wires because it messes with the resistance... any insight on that?
So apparently one of the previous owners chopped off the harness connector for that particular O2 sensor and hard-wired the sensor in. The harness side has different colored wires than the O2 sensor (which has a black, grey and 2 white wires). Anyone have a wiring diagram for this?
I've also heard that you can't solder O2 sensor wires because it messes with the resistance... any insight on that?
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Here's a diagram and a connector pin out for 1/2 O2S.
The wires on the O2s are:
Black = Signal
Grey = Ground
Whites = O2S Heater (not polarity sensitive)
Soldering the splices is desirable.
The wires on the O2s are:
Black = Signal
Grey = Ground
Whites = O2S Heater (not polarity sensitive)
Soldering the splices is desirable.
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Blown away yet again, thanks for the perfect info. Hopefully going to tackle this on the weekend, I'll have to strip some of the harness back and see where I can splice in.
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Depends on whether you can solder correctly or not. Many people can't, so bad things happen. These people then tell other people about the bad things that happen, and then an urban legend is born.
A common error that would wreak havoc with any sensor is what is known as a "cold solder joint". Basically, you get it just hot enough to flow a bit, glob things together, and think you have done a soldering job.
But a cold solder joint presents high resistance. Not a good thing in a sensor circuit!
Done correctly, it's a good thing.
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Depends on whether you can solder correctly or not. Many people can't, so bad things happen. These people then tell other people about the bad things that happen, and then an urban legend is born.
A common error that would wreak havoc with any sensor is what is known as a "cold solder joint". Basically, you get it just hot enough to flow a bit, glob things together, and think you have done a soldering job.
But a cold solder joint presents high resistance. Not a good thing in a sensor circuit!
Done correctly, it's a good thing.
A common error that would wreak havoc with any sensor is what is known as a "cold solder joint". Basically, you get it just hot enough to flow a bit, glob things together, and think you have done a soldering job.
But a cold solder joint presents high resistance. Not a good thing in a sensor circuit!
Done correctly, it's a good thing.
Doing a butcher job crimping a butt splice is just as bad.
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Thanks for the help guys, I'll make sure and solder it properly. I think what I remembered hearing was about the O2 sensor wires themselves are stainless and not copper, but that could just be hearsay.
And thanks for the tip, I assumed cylinders 1-3 were bank 1, but wanted to make sure. Most of what I work on are transverse mounted 4-cylinder and V6 engines in import cars, where bank 1 is facing the firewall. I was overthinking the simple straight 6 design haha
And thanks for the tip, I assumed cylinders 1-3 were bank 1, but wanted to make sure. Most of what I work on are transverse mounted 4-cylinder and V6 engines in import cars, where bank 1 is facing the firewall. I was overthinking the simple straight 6 design haha
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