kermit5327

I was out in the heep the other day and i was just going thru the 4WD gears and when i put it in 4 wheel full time it would make kinda like a humming noise, and the jeep wouldnt move. when i tries to put it in park it started to make a ticking noise then a cluck.


what does all this mean do i need a new tcase

Abovetimberline

Check your linkage could be out of adjustment.

RenoXJ

Time to start lookin for a working 231. thats what I did atleast. my 242 had nothing but problems

BlueXJ

I have rebuilt both 231s and 242s and they are very similar internally. The 242 is a slightly less strong transfercase but the added ability to use fulltime is well worth the cons.
You have either got a worn part internally or it needs some adjustment.

kermit5327

idk if it changes anything but part time and low still work great...

also blue how hard is it to rebuild the 242? and would a master rebuild kit include what i need to fix the problem

BowtieGuy3

Actually the 231 & 242 are very similar in strength, with the 242 the stronger of the two (stock, of course).

I own both boxes in 2 diff XJ's I have and I love the 242 for the FT-4WD in winter, and the 231 for the PT-4WD when its really crappy out and I have to blaze my way thru the streets..

And definitely check/adjust the linkage, I know my 231 made some funny sounds when it was out of adjustment...

kermit5327

how do i check/adjust the linkage?

Laddie

do you have a haynes manual?? it is outlined in there.

dgcompany

Haynes manual from Autozone or Pepboys will show you how to adjust the linkage; very simple. But in my case with a 231, it's beyond a simple linkage adjustment. Better luck to you. Let us all know how it turned out please.

Uhrinator

So did this fix your problem? I'm having the same problem and am thinking its the axle...

CCKen

The NP/NV242J is great for DD in the snow. I drove my '99 w/242 for years driving to work and back five days a week, 52 miles each day, and in Michigan winters the 4W Full Time saved my ****. On one occasion the snow fall over night was about 12" and the road to my work was virgin, i.e., no one had been on it. I put it in 4FT and plowed ahead. People were lined up behind me for miles running in my tracks. Jeeps with 242's rule.

In the process of rebuilding a 242 as a spare. When I get a few bux I buy a part. Good winter/basement project.

The problem with the 242 is the differential carrier. It's a poor design and subject to damage from bits of metal chunked off the mode synchronizer sleeve splines and imbedding in the bronze ring on the differential sprocket. This is the source of gold looking metal in your TC ATF. If this TC had the synchronizer and sprocket like the Hummer 242 it would elminate this problem. You can't buy new differential sprockets, just the whole differential for around $500. If you're very lucky you can disassemble the differentil carrier and clean up the bronze ring. I'm lucky that my differential carrier is in good shape, so it's worth it to rebuild it.

You can buy used 242J's at the bone yard and on Craigslist for $100 - $200, but I'll bet every one of them will have its ATF is full of metal. If you want to buy a used 231 or 242 make sure you can see the ATF in the TC before you buy it....if possible. Metal: 242 Bronze/gold = differential sproket damage as well as synchronizer sleeve damage; 231/242 Steel = bearings/gears; 231/242 Aluminum = Damage to rear cover by defective chain.

Did I tell you I love the NP/NV242J....

XJDavid

I know this is an older thread, but I'm wondering if it's ok to leave a transfer case in this state and never use 4FT?
What CCKen said about bronze pieces in the ATF is exactly what I have going on. 4PT and 4LO seem to be working fine for me.

salad

Well as long as you get the metal out...if the 4FT differential is damaged then just don't use it. Looking at the parts blowout in the FSM doesn't seem like it'd be a big deal, it appears as those bits have no power going through them in other modes.

XJDavid

Cool. That's what I was thinking to that it wouldn't be in use so no harm to do. I plan on a SYE from Tom Woods soon so I'll get a closer look and cleaning when I split it apart.

cruiser54

Try THIS FIRST.

Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I let off the gas, throw the lever, and then tap the gas and let off.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

THEN THIS, IF you still have issues:

Transfer Case Linkage Adjustment

Straight from the FSM:

SHIFT LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
(1) Shift transfer case into 4L position. (make sure your shifter is fully in the 4L position)
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Loosen lock bolt on adjusting trunnion (Fig.
87).
(4) Be sure linkage rod slides freely in trunnion.
Clean rod and apply spray lube if necessary.
(5) Verify that transfer case range lever is fully
engaged in 4L position. (you can do this under the vehicle at the transfer case)
(6) Tighten adjusting trunnion lock bolt.
(7) Lower vehicle