joey400ex

Noticed loud grind/knocking noise from left hub (front drivers side) after using 4x4 through deep mud hole and when I went back to 2x4 is when the noise start. I figured the wheel hub was going to lock up so limped it home and made it. The noise did smooth out the closer I got home (45 minute drive). I assume the hub needs replacement, but I took the wheel off and there was mild play in the hub bearing. I did notice the insertion point of the front axle and looked like something was missing in the housing where the shaft inserts. The passenger side has a plastic piece whereas the driving side has nothing. Is this normal and should I be concened? I am very new to jeeps and was curious. I have not checked the fluid level in the front diff yet but plan on working on it more in the next couple of days.

4.3L XJ

I think you should take the diff cover off and check the insides. I see signs of both diff seals leaking, which doesn't take much to conclude it is low on oil. Probably where your grinding is coming from

joey400ex

I will check that tonight. When I jack the truck up and spin the wheel it does not make any noises. I will add fluid and see if that helps.

PatHenry

The plastic thing on the drive axle is an "oil slinger". You can buy them from Quadratec.com or other sources (however, good luck trying to find it at the dealer...) for a couple bucks. It's very easy to snap on if you've got the hub out - just make sure the axle is seated in the diff and snap it in place like you see the other side. I like mine as tight to the axle tube as possible to keep junk out of the tube.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_0027.htm

That's the one for my 95.

joey400ex

Pat,
Thanks, just wanted to make sure a seal wasn't missing getting water into the diff!

PatHenry

Anytime Joe.

That oil slinger doesn't provide a legit "seal", but someone did mention you have signs of leaking. The seals for the axle shafts are at the hub. If you need to replace them then I think you'll have to open the diff and/or use axle seal specialty tools... I'm sure there's a write-up somewhere on this.

While not a replacement or bandage for having bad axle seals, there are aftermarket bushings that you can put in at the wheel ends of the axle tube that are supposed to keep water and debris out of the tube. I've never used these myself, but they sell them on Quadratec and most other Jeep part retailers.

The front hubs are actually not too difficult to disassemble and the axles just pull out. New hubs are about $70-$100 on average and commonly available. When you do the hub it's always best to check those U-joints as well since you've got it apart.

PatHenry

If you have play in the hub (and probably the u-joint as well) that also could be the source of your grinding/knocking.

joey400ex

Got looking at it more last night, the universal is for sure failing. The hub seems tight and rolls easily. I went a head and bought a new hub and u-joint. I broke my breaker bar last night on the axle nut but was able to get it off. I cleaned the threads to the hub real good and put some blaster on them overnight. I'm going to attempt to replace the u-joint with some sockets, vice, and c-clamp. I hope this is possible or should I just rent the tool from autozone? I assume the axle will just slide out and I do not have to open the front diff. Thanks for all the help so far.

firebane

If they have never been changed the tool will greatly help.

PatHenry

The most recent hub I did the trick was to hit that 36mm nut with some heat.(Since I was replacing the hub bearing I didn't worry about damaging the old one). It came off like butt-ah!

You can do the U-joints with the socket/clamp technique. I personally had a heck of a time with it on my TJ and considering the difficulty I had --- In fairness, I live in salty/rusty New England -- If/when I need to do a u-joint in the future I'll pull the axle in question and take it down to my trusted mechanic and happily pay a small fee to have them R/R the u-joint.

Yes the axles just pull out. When you do the hub, the easiest way is to place a socket between the knuckle and axle yolk and have an assistant turn the wheel to pop it out. This is a well documented trick and works very well - just be safe and heed the advice to keep some threads in. Be very careful taking out the axles though, especially on the passenger side (since it's a longer shaft) as those suckers are heavier than they look and you don't want to damage the seals.
I always liberally "anti-seize" the knuckle/hub contact point (just be careful to only get the metal mating surface.. I don't know if anti-seize will harm the bearing seal on the back of the hub, but better safe than sorry. Also where the rotor sits on the hub (again, just the mating surfaces since antiseize WILL cause an issue on the brake friction surface.. lol). You'll thank yourself if you ever have to do it again and/or when you do a brake job since the parts will come apart easily next time.

PatHenry

Oh, don't forget to have some wheel grease on hand for putting the axle into the new hub and what-not.

joey400ex

Noted. I will attempt with my vice first. Trying to see if I can use a press but we will see. Thanks for the heads up, very helpful.