colehunter

I have a 2001 xj, 200k, 4.0L stock

I just got done replacing my rear main, oil pan gasket, and oil pump. This was just a maintenance job, nothing was wrong before. After everything was buttoned up I primed the pump and went to start it up. It ran fine for 30 seconds, good oil pressure, then the check engine light came on and it stalled out. Now it won't start. I have fuel but no spark. I thought maybe the Crank sensor got damaged during oil pan removal since I had to jack the tranny up a little to get the pan out. I removed it and it looked ok, but I replaced it anyways. That still didn't get me spark. I also tested the cam sensor and replaced it but still nothing.

I don't know what else would have been touched. If I turn the ignition on it doesn't show a check engine light, so there are no codes to pull. My next guess is the coil pack, but it was working fine before I got into the oil pan. Any suggestions?

bulrid8

Pull the codes. You said the CEL came on before it died. That means there is codes stored in memory.

colehunter

I will try to pull the codes tomorrow, but while putting the new CPS in I removed the battery cable, so the computer has been reset. Not sure if the codes will still show.

I pulled the coil pack rail and could see a very faint spark, so I'm wondering if the coil is going bad. It just seems strange that it was working fine before and now it's not.

bulrid8

Yes, they may have erased. Did you double check all connections, make sure nothing came loose.

Jeepin'Hubb's

This is completely normal. You fix one thing on the jeep and something else fails shortly after...only in your case it was immediately after.

DFlintstone

"I just got done replacing my rear main, oil pan gasket, and oil pump. This was just a maintenance job, nothing was wrong before"

I assume you mean a seal that waz not leaking and a pump that waz fine.

This is not my business, (a post 99), but I'd check fuses, the little ones, and the wires to the cps and 02 sensors. One of them grounding should throw a code.

Main point here though is to is to commiserate, sorry man, that sucks!

RTorrez1

I'm confused here, Why would you replacing the rear main, oil pan gasket, and oil pump. If there was nothing wrong with them in the first place??? Those things aren't normal maintenance items. Also first you say you had a cel then you say you didn't. Anyways, the first thing you need to do is to pull the code even if you don't have a cel you can still have stored code.

colehunter

When I say nothing wrong with it I mean it has always leaked a little oil but it was never an issue other than leaving spot on my driveway. I decided to replace the rear main because it seemed to be leaking more oil recently. The point is the jeep ran fine until after this install.

There was a CEL light before it died, but since I pulled the battery cable the light is gone.

DFlintstone

Hey Cole. All Is fine, WELCOME to CF. I'll almost always be nice. RT will call out when he feels like it. Cusier may not read the thread. Ken can be a smart ***. The list goes on. In any case we are all here to lend a hand, no matter how it "seems" to come across.

I'm a nub on yours...ASD relay issue? Check those wires, fuses and codes.


ALSO Hardened O rings in the oil filter adapter will cause oil to drip off the bell housing. (because it blows back).

OIL FILTER ADAPRER O RINGS http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...filter-adapter And a link with torx.. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/

RTorrez1

I was just a little confused on what was going on. No matter you need to try to pull the codes. If there is something wrong the code may be stored. Like I said just because you don't have a cel \the codes may still be there. If you have fuel but no spark that tells us that it isn't the cps. If it was the cps you wouldn't have either one. Check all of the fuses.

Jeepin'Hubb's

Ha that's very funny and very true...yall sure are helpful tho except RT..jk

DFlintstone

I focus almost every response on Jeep issues, ignoring the BS that comes up.
Like some of my best friends, I'd rather have RT around, as opposed to the alternative.

CCKen

Did you prime the pump by removing the Oil Pump Drive and Cam Sensor, then driving the oil pump?

When you replaced the Cam Sensor did you install it exactly as the FSM directs you to?

When you turn the key to RUN, before cranking the engine, do you see CHECK ENGINE on the instrument cluster? If not, the bulb may be blown. At any rate, a hard failure (that originally turned the CEL on) would come back immediately, if it doesn't, a soft code may be set and will take several drive cycles to put it back on. If you get a chance to check for stored codes, make sure your scanner has the ability to check for 'Pending' codes.

Do you have the Sentry Key Immobilizer System? If so, does the amber SKIS advisory light on the instrument cluster (upper left corner) come on and stay on with the key to RUN, or does it come on then go off?

If you want to check fuses, here's some visual aides:

PDC:



Guide to fuses in the Junction Block:



The JB layout:



Good luck.

CCKen

Thanks for your endorsement. LOL

colehunter

I got her running again. I knew I had spark and fuel at the fuel line. But the Camshaft Position sensor was out of sync and shutting off the fuel injectors.

Be aware when you prime an oil pump manually by turning the oil pump you will also be turning the cam and putting it out of sync with the crank. I followed this procedure to reindex the camshaft sensor;

The process is easy. You need a helper, a toothpick or small drill bit, some basic hand tools and a "mirror on a stick" so you can see the timing marks on the bottom of the cover.

Remove the coil rail, the #1 spark plug(closest to front of the car)
Carefully place a finger over the spark plug hole.
Use a 3/4 ratchet to turn the crank forward till the notch on the harmonic balancer flywheel is on the zero mark.
Remove the camshaft position sensor from the camshaft synchronizer.
Find the small hole in the outside of the housing for the oil pump drive shaft.
Find the small hole on the magnet inside that indicates camshaft position.
Carefully turn the housing on the camshaft synchronizer until you can align those two holes and insert a toothpick or drill bit straight through them.
Loosen the retaining fork that holds in the camshaft synchronizer.
Use a flathead screw driver to turn the oil pump so it is in the same position as the bottom camshaft synchronizer. Insert the camshaft synchronizer and make sure it sits flush on the engine block, and the plug side is facing the rear of the engine.
Tighten down the retaining fork, remove the toothpick, reinstall the camshaft position sensor, spark plug and coil rail.