No Crank, No Acc Power on Key Turn
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 66
Likes: 6
From: SoCal
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 - Renix
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
If the accessories not working means the radio, wipers, poser seats, a/c fan, and the headlights,flashers, powers locks, all which don't need the key in the on or accessory position, work some things can be eliminated.
1. The battery is obviously eliminated because you have power.
2. The power to the fuse block is okay because (i) power for what is working, which comes through the fuse block, is getting to the working systems
3. Because power for the systems that aren't working have multiple fuses, the chances that you have blown all of the accessory fuses at once, without affecting the fuses for the systems that are working, is slim to none. Additionally, I don't think those fuses would cause a no crank problem because power to the solenoid doesn't go through the fuse block.
4. Because the accessories that aren't working go through the fuse block but the solenoid doesn't go through the fuse block and isn't cranking the starter, the problem isn't the fuses unless the accessory problem and no crank problem aren't related. I'm not willing to make that bet..
Based on that, if the power for the accessories isn't getting to the fuse block, and power isn't getting to the solenoid, I would surmise the problem is either power is not getting to the ignition switch or the ignition switch itself since power isn't going to either the fuse block or the solenoid. That's what I would be focusing on right now.
1. The battery is obviously eliminated because you have power.
2. The power to the fuse block is okay because (i) power for what is working, which comes through the fuse block, is getting to the working systems
3. Because power for the systems that aren't working have multiple fuses, the chances that you have blown all of the accessory fuses at once, without affecting the fuses for the systems that are working, is slim to none. Additionally, I don't think those fuses would cause a no crank problem because power to the solenoid doesn't go through the fuse block.
4. Because the accessories that aren't working go through the fuse block but the solenoid doesn't go through the fuse block and isn't cranking the starter, the problem isn't the fuses unless the accessory problem and no crank problem aren't related. I'm not willing to make that bet..
Based on that, if the power for the accessories isn't getting to the fuse block, and power isn't getting to the solenoid, I would surmise the problem is either power is not getting to the ignition switch or the ignition switch itself since power isn't going to either the fuse block or the solenoid. That's what I would be focusing on right now.
Last edited by Patrick S. Kotyuk; Jun 9, 2020 at 06:58 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
This
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 3,816
Likes: 725
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I was just gonna say now is the time to download the free FSM for your year, break out the multimeter, and begin testing for important voltages, such as Ignition to starter relay, PCM, and ASD relay (if fitted)
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
I didn't realize you had the early starter relay. I had one of those. You can use a screw driver or remote starter to see if your starter is good by jumping from the main post to the green wire that goes to the starter relay. I realize this sounds confusing, but all our Jeeps have two relays. Small one operated by the key switch that operates a heavy solenoid on the starter. To do this, pull the green wire out just enough to make contact between the two with it still connected. The starter should engage. The other green wires and orange on the large post are your fusible links, which is what you have under the hood instead of fuses.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I didn't realize you had the early starter relay. I had one of those. You can use a screw driver or remote starter to see if your starter is good by jumping from the main post to the green wire that goes to the starter relay. I realize this sounds confusing, but all our Jeeps have two relays. Small one operated by the key switch that operates a heavy solenoid on the starter. To do this, pull the green wire out just enough to make contact between the two with it still connected. The starter should engage. The other green wires and orange on the large post are your fusible links, which is what you have under the hood instead of fuses.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
It will operate the starter without the key. This will confirm if the starter is OK. Also, there is a wire that goes to ground through the NSS. Black or black with white stripe IIRC. If you ground that terminal, the starter relay will operate with the gear shift in any position. If the starter is OK, then work backwards by using a test light on the red wire I think, or whatever color is left from the two and that should be hot when the key is in the start position
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 560
Likes: 25
From: West Covina, Ca.
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Note from DJ I Hope This Information Helps
BAL= 14 ORG/BLK to Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor; hot after start up.
SOL= 14 DK GRN to STARTER SOLENOID; hot when starting.
I= 14 GRN from Ignition Switch Start Position; hot when starting.
G= 18 BLK/WHT Ground from Transmission Natural Position; this must be grounded before starter relay can be energized.
BAL= 14 ORG/BLK to Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor; hot after start up.
SOL= 14 DK GRN to STARTER SOLENOID; hot when starting.
I= 14 GRN from Ignition Switch Start Position; hot when starting.
G= 18 BLK/WHT Ground from Transmission Natural Position; this must be grounded before starter relay can be energized.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Note from DJ I Hope This Information Helps
BAL= 14 ORG/BLK to Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor; hot after start up.
SOL= 14 DK GRN to STARTER SOLENOID; hot when starting.
I= 14 GRN from Ignition Switch Start Position; hot when starting.
G= 18 BLK/WHT Ground from Transmission Natural Position; this must be grounded before starter relay can be energized.
BAL= 14 ORG/BLK to Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor; hot after start up.
SOL= 14 DK GRN to STARTER SOLENOID; hot when starting.
I= 14 GRN from Ignition Switch Start Position; hot when starting.
G= 18 BLK/WHT Ground from Transmission Natural Position; this must be grounded before starter relay can be energized.
Unfortunately, I just spent the last two hours replacing my ignition switch, and starter relay. There is no change. Still no accessories or start.I just got some new leads for the multimeter so I guess the next step is just probing wires?
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 v6
Same situation
Thank you for this, I will use this to diagnose further.
Unfortunately, I just spent the last two hours replacing my ignition switch, and starter relay. There is no change. Still no accessories or start.I just got some new leads for the multimeter so I guess the next step is just probing wires?
Unfortunately, I just spent the last two hours replacing my ignition switch, and starter relay. There is no change. Still no accessories or start.I just got some new leads for the multimeter so I guess the next step is just probing wires?
did we ever figure this out? I am in the same exact situation.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Austin, TX
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Nope, I have flight school today and don’t have time to diagnose today. Hopefully I’ll get some time Saturday morning to look at it. The issue must be something electrical so I’m going to be breaking out the multimeter. Does anyone have any tips with multimeter usage on the XJ. I’ve never really used it to probe for discontinuity.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,467
Likes: 267
From: Littleton, CO
Year: '96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Just be on the same wire end to end and use the Ohms setting. If it says OL, there is not continuity. If you get a number, it's more than likely good. If you probe a wire end and then touch bare metal on the jeep (ground), it should always say OL. If the multimeter has a beep function, turn it on so it'll beep when it detects continuity. Then you don't have to keep looking at where your probing and then back to the multimeter screen every time.