No BUS code, tried many fixes, HELP! PHOTOS
 

12/17/2017 JUST GOT JEEP SCANNED CODES P1698 AND P1694 CAME UP. PLEASE ADVISE IF POSSIBLE. THANKS.

MOST RECENT UPDATE, SEEMS NO POWER TO NUMBER 6 FUSE WHICH I BELIEVE POWER SOMETHING IN THE CLUSTER. TESTER LIGHT COMES ON WHEN PROBING THE OTHER FUSE SLOTS BUT NOT #6 FUSE. HOW CAN I GET POWER BACK TO THAT FUSE AND CAN THAT ISSUE CAUSE MY LOSS OF GAUGES?


I just purchased a super nice 2000 Jeep Cherokee Classic, 4WD, Auto, 4.0, 131K Miles, One Owner, Clean Carfax, Excellent condition. Its like new inside and out. After a few miles of driving the gauge cluster stopped working and I still have no gauges. I am not new to older cars and forums as I am the owner of CINCY CLASSIC CARS where I buy and sell classic cars for a living. I am an active member on numerous forums but this is my first jeep post.

After taking the dash apart and removing the cluster it looks as if it has never been opened up before. All wires and connections seem stock and un tampered. I have included several photos to maybe help with the situation or maybe someone will see an issue. I am not a mechanic but can usually follow advice and figure things out.

My gauge cluster has the engine light and airbag light on but no gauges work. It tests just fine when doing the trip test. Today I bought a very nice cluster at the You Pull and Pay and the same thing happens, no gauges and on this one the airbag light and seat belt light stays on and no gauges and it states No BUS too. The new gauge tests just fine with the trip test. Everything else in the Jeep works as it should, its just the gauge cluster that does not work. I cleaned both clusters as recommended and reinstalled and still no gauges. I checked all the fuses no issues, checked the body grounds under the hood and sanded down paint and no issues there. Checked for loose wires at connections and did not see any. I am really at my wits end with this and have no idea what to do next.

The only thing I see unconnected is the tapped off connector under the steering column in the last photos, no idea where that clips into and if it can help the situation.

I welcome any advice. Hope the pictures help.



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How well did you check the fuses? I would start by replacing every gauge related fuse whether it looks blown or not and even better, testing for current at the fuse slot and going from there.

can you tell me which fuses are gauge related? I will gladly replace them.

Do a google search and you should get a plethora of diagrams and pictures of the 2000 XJ fuse block and references to what each fuse covers. I think 6 and 12 and maybe a third one.

I know I've had mini type fuses that "looked" good but were bad. Particularly the super low amp ones which I think are involved in the gauges. Checking that you're actually getting power at the fuse locations will help you isolate where the issue lies.

i replaced fuses, 6,9, and 12 by the passenger kick panel with new fuses and 16 in the pdc under the hood and the same problem occurs.

so frustrating...

in the 3 days i have owned the jeep here are a few things that have happened. the shipper set the key all the way back and the battery died. it had to be jumped and i charged it back with a battery charger. i also left the key all the way back when i first drove car home and did not realize it and the clock and some other small stuff was still on. i noticed negative battery terminal was a loose connection so i took it off and cleaned it up and made it tight, while the key was all the way back to acc i assume. i also changed the blower motor resistor as the fan only worked on high speed, that is corrected now and working well.

gauge cluster worked just fine after the jump. but after the battery cable was attached well and battery charged and blower motor resistor changed the gauges stopped working. could be coincidence or maybe related. just wanted anyone who reads this to know what had been done.

Have you scanned it for codes and if so what are they?

Had a problem like yours, but mine would not start. I started disconnecting every sensor under the hood. Then found a diagram that showed the ccd circuit. When the trans control mod was disconnected the no bus went away and gauges came back and it started. I hope this helps

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...eae67563d6.jpg
In your case I'd look at the air bag the light is on for a reason, bulb might be burn out in you first cluster gauge, just saying.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c801c9e9f.jpeg

I posted the wrong pic above
It was this diagram the other might help to

my jeep runs and drives great, no other issue anywhere with the jeep outside of the gauges not working and the "no bus" light being on. the airbag light only comes on when it goes into no bus mode and the engine light comes on at that time. i have not run codes as i don't have a scanner and the wire diagrams are like a foreign language. looks like i will probably have to take it somewhere where someone has experience with how to read those and test things and run codes. was hoping to fix on my own though.

all the connectors under hood, in the dash, etc. look new, no corrosion or damaged wires on anything. nothing is brittle or worn looking. the jeep is like new everywhere which is puzzling as you would not think this to happen with one so clean. also everything is stock. have not seen any alterations or signs of that.

when i was messing with the battery and changing the blower motor resistor could that have caused this?

Squirrel, I've had this happen on two jeeps. The first one was man hunt looking for ground wire that was broken, checked voltages and unplugged everything you could think of. I accidentally bumped the door locks and the gauges flickered and we had the "AH HA" moment? This jeep was in an accident, the airbags blew and from the pressure, one of the sunroof latches broke, so there was a small leak...water got into the dome light, in the dome light is where the remote keyless entry module is...the water fried that, so we unplugged it...and problem fixed!!!

My second jeep, I'm still hunting, but the rear upper brake light was not working...unplugged it, took all the panels off the rear gate and pulled wires out...the hinge point gets the most wear and tear...so after cutting back the rubber and electrical tape, found some broken wires...that was fix #1...I noticed the running lights were on with switch off, so we swapped the light switch.. When I turn on the lights now, the gauges go dead, rear wiper goes on and so does the rear defrost. bumped the locks and got another gauge flicker. My 12V cigarette socket quits working and overhead dome light won't work, and the airbag light comes on.

So bottom line, electrical sucks!!! but if you take the time to find everything that is on the BUS, you'll likely find the problem. Trans control module, keyless entry module, airbag module, light switch, clock spring, etc etc. I'll let you know when I get mine fixed, but right now I don't have time... hope this helps, maybe some electrical gurus will write in with full electrical schematic... Good Luck

thanks for all the replies. seems like most that had this happen it was an issue at the rear of cluster and cleaning the cluster fixed it, or there were several issues with wiring and weird things going on and several things not working properly. mine is frustrating since i have no other issues or things not working properly, just the gauges, its all stock with no noticeable mods in very great condition.

Most auto parts stores will scan for codes n/c.

If the cluster is reading "No Bus", disconnect the crank sensor and then turn the key. If the No Bus is gone and the gauges start working, the crank sensor or the wiring is shorted. If nothing changes, there is a loose (possibly corroded) connection somewhere.