Fuman Shoo

I have always lived in a world of sedan passenger cars; Topaz, Cutlass Supreme XL, '97 Taurus SHO, '01 Chevy Impala and lastly a '07 Hyundai Sonata. I recently left the sedan world behind and decided to buy a used 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee (4.0L) 4x4.

I used to pride myself on taking on my own repair jobs, so I figured I can do the same on he jeep. However, I'm running into trivial problems with the most basic of repairs.

1. Changing the plugs:
I have new plugs and a wire set in waiting, but for the life of me, I can't get the damn plug boots off. I am trying REALLY hard from applying too much pulling/tugging. Is there a risk of damage from yanking on the boots or is there a tool that can grab onto the boots that allows you more leverage?

Also, the one plug that is located nearest the alternator; the space is severely limited. Don't they still make an articulating plug wrench to get a plugs in tight spaces? I honestly have never had a problem before changing plugs. This is new to me.

2. Changing the brake rotors and shocks:
This is the first time I've worked on a front end/suspension system before, so it was a surprise for me when I tried to jack the car up from the front passenger side (behind the front wheel), the wheel stayed on the ground. My question is how (or more importantly WHERE) to raise the car in order to remove the wheel? Do I jack the car from the front axle? Keep in mind that I do not have a car lifter.

I feel sort of stupid asking these most trivial of questions. It's just that I am unfamiliar with the Jeep and I don't want to risk going all gung-ho and making the situation worse.

jeepfreak82

Believe it or not, the Jeep is actuallly easier to work on than most other vehicles... As far as the plug boots, no, you really can't damage anything critical, especially if you are going to be putting new wires on it anyway. You could try using needle-nose pliers to reach the boots and try to twist them loose. This has worked for me before when they have stuck. As far as getting the wheels off the ground, you will need to jack up under the axle so that you do not have to jack it way up in the air. You will see that there is not much to it once you get started... Also, for the spark plugs, you can usually get to the plug on th front just with an extension long enough to let the rachet clear the compressor, or you could get a u-joint adapter (swivel) to allow the socket to be angled if you need to. Feel free to ask any questions needed... That is what this is all about... One Jeeper helping another. Good luck!

Fuman Shoo

Thank you very very much! In terms of the plugs, that's kinda what I thought. However, regarding the rotors/shocks, I wouldn't have been as brave to take the chance on jacking up the car by the axle. I'd assume I'd damage something. But then again, the axle WOULD have to be incredibly strong to handle all the torque and vibrations.

I'll try both tomorrow after work and will let you know how it all comes out.

I feel empowered again! Thanks.

On a separate topic...After this project gets done, then it's to getting the Jeep passed California smog emissions tests. Damn NOx... Let's see if the Seafoam actually does the trick. I actually had my car seafoamed at a local Oil Changers shop. The guy there did his car last week and knew how to add the seafoam into their own feul injector engine treatemnt process. It smoked for a couple of minutes, but ran clear afterwards and runs GREAT (plus the 1/3 seafoam in the gas tank on 91 octane gas).

whowey

Wow.... your previous cars sound like the average Hertz Rental Car lot.....

Jacking the front end by using the axle tube is the 'normal' way of doing things for us....

offroadnut36

Be careful when taking the shock bolts out....they like to snap on us.

Fuman Shoo

Yeah...that's for sure. Except for the Ford Taurus SHO, I think they all used to be used as rental models. I know first hand that Dollar Rental Cars uses the Sonata and formerly the standard Taurus and Impala. The Taurus SHO was my fav. Damn that car was fast and had the best sounding stock engine manufactured domestically during the 90's (short of a Shelby/Cobra/Saleen) Mustang.

I guess I have a bit to learn about my Jeep. I'm glad to have you guys around. Sometimes repair manuals just don't provide enough information.

Fuman Shoo

Snapping? Is it from tension? Please explain.

xer0

one of the many rusted bolts you will find, the front shocks just makes it faster to get them out but the rear, makes it a PITA. That is where i am at i need to drill and use soem easy outs to get the snapped bolts in the rear off.

jeepfreak82

Hey Fuman, for what it is worth, you should be able to find a fuel additive called Guaranteed-to-Pass... It has worked for me in the past very well, although not in my current Jeep. I used it in one that I used to own but shortly before I got my current, the law changed to safety only for 95 and older... Yeah 94!!!! I actually know that this one will pass because I had the emissions tested before I purchased it and knew the guy that owned it before me. It has been kept up rather well and I have had nothing but good luck with it. I hope that you get good service out of yours as well.