Newbie! Jeep wont crank
02-18-2016, 10:35 AM
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Newbie! Jeep wont crank
I have a 1998 XJ that doesn't crank. For about a year it had trouble starting..it would crank but it would take 2-4 tries to start the engine. Kind of ignored this this problem.
It all started yesterday morning...It cranked but didn't start. Waited a min and tried it again....it didn't even crank? Waited this morning to try it again and still having the same issue.
Any ideas? I tried hammering the starter. didn't work. it also looks like the battery terminals and wires are fine.
I think its the fuel pump maybe?
Thanks,
Jon
It all started yesterday morning...It cranked but didn't start. Waited a min and tried it again....it didn't even crank? Waited this morning to try it again and still having the same issue.
Any ideas? I tried hammering the starter. didn't work. it also looks like the battery terminals and wires are fine.
I think its the fuel pump maybe?
Thanks,
Jon
02-19-2016, 03:03 AM
#2
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It isn't the fuel pump. No relation to the starter or cranking. Might be related to the 2-3 tries to start the engine though, if the check valve is bad.
How's the battery? If you disconnect the terminals, how do they look?
How's the battery? If you disconnect the terminals, how do they look?
02-19-2016, 08:42 AM
#3
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
First check your battery with a multimeter, should read 12-12.5V all the time.
If the starter is original it could still be the problem, the hammer trick doesn't always work. Most auto parts stores like Autozone should be able to test it.
Or it could be the fuel pump check valve like Radi said. Stole this from another Jeep forum:
If the starter is original it could still be the problem, the hammer trick doesn't always work. Most auto parts stores like Autozone should be able to test it.
Or it could be the fuel pump check valve like Radi said. Stole this from another Jeep forum:
When the 1997 to 2001 Cherokee won’t start on the first try day after day, the first thing to suspect is a failed check valve on the fuel pump. The fuel pump check valve is supposed to hold pressure in the fuel line while the engine is off. The check valve is located on the fuel pump and located in the gas tank. A failed check valve allows the fuel to drain back to the tank. This results in the following symptoms:
SYMPTOMS
· Longer than normal cranking times
· Never starts on first try, almost always starts on the second try
· Rough idle for a few moments of idling
· Rough running for first ½ block of driving
· Little or no fuel pressure at the fuel rail test valve similar to this -
1- Key in on position; fuel pump primes for 2 seconds then stops. 0 PSI
2- Cranking over the engine. 2-3 PSI
3- Engine starts and idles for 20 seconds. < 5 PSI
4- Engine idles and fuel pressure creeps up to 45 PSI.
POSSIBLE CAUSES·
- Failed check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank (1995 ½ to 2001 models ONLY)
-Leaky fuel injector(s) may be the true cause of your problem, but more likely they are simply contributing to the check valve issue.
Testing of the fuel injectors should show if any are faulty and are allowing fuel to drain into the cylinder. Either problem can allow heat soak to vaporize the remaining fuel in the fuel rail and you may be dealing with a bit of vapor lock as well, especially in warmer weather.
1. Connect the gage at the fuel rail and start the engine. The gage should read 49 psi plus or minus 2 psi.
2. Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line just ahead of the fuel tank. Watch the pressure gage and see how long it takes to loose pressure.
If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - probably the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky injector.
There are a few solutions to the problem –
1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.
2. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds, pause, and crank the engine again. It will almost always start on the second try.
3. Replace the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. The check valve is not a separate part and cannot be serviced. This is both expensive and time consuming because you have to remove any hitches and skid plates and then remove the gas tank from the vehicle.
You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.
SYMPTOMS
· Longer than normal cranking times
· Never starts on first try, almost always starts on the second try
· Rough idle for a few moments of idling
· Rough running for first ½ block of driving
· Little or no fuel pressure at the fuel rail test valve similar to this -
1- Key in on position; fuel pump primes for 2 seconds then stops. 0 PSI
2- Cranking over the engine. 2-3 PSI
3- Engine starts and idles for 20 seconds. < 5 PSI
4- Engine idles and fuel pressure creeps up to 45 PSI.
POSSIBLE CAUSES·
- Failed check valve on the fuel pump in the gas tank (1995 ½ to 2001 models ONLY)
-Leaky fuel injector(s) may be the true cause of your problem, but more likely they are simply contributing to the check valve issue.
Testing of the fuel injectors should show if any are faulty and are allowing fuel to drain into the cylinder. Either problem can allow heat soak to vaporize the remaining fuel in the fuel rail and you may be dealing with a bit of vapor lock as well, especially in warmer weather.
1. Connect the gage at the fuel rail and start the engine. The gage should read 49 psi plus or minus 2 psi.
2. Turn the engine off and immediately clamp the fuel line just ahead of the fuel tank. Watch the pressure gage and see how long it takes to loose pressure.
If the pressure remains at 49 psi for an extended period of time then the problem is in the tank - probably the check valve. If the pressure falls below 49 psi fairly rapidly then the problem is probably a leaky injector.
There are a few solutions to the problem –
1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.
2. Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds, pause, and crank the engine again. It will almost always start on the second try.
3. Replace the fuel pump assembly in the gas tank. The check valve is not a separate part and cannot be serviced. This is both expensive and time consuming because you have to remove any hitches and skid plates and then remove the gas tank from the vehicle.
You can use solutions 1 or 2 for as long as you want to, they do not harm anything and the fuel pump will continue to function for many more years.
02-19-2016, 05:52 PM
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If the engine itself doesn't even turn over, you have a problem with the "starting" circuit. I'd start with fully charging your battery, then have it "load tested" at any parts store. It's free and it is the only accurate way of testing battery condition. All engine life starts with those pesky electrons. Pulling the battery will also give you a better chance to clean terminals, etc.
Once you get the engine to turn over freely and if it still won't start, then you must test for both SPARK and FUEL. Search for the how to on this if you are not familiar.
Once you get the engine to turn over freely and if it still won't start, then you must test for both SPARK and FUEL. Search for the how to on this if you are not familiar.
02-19-2016, 10:56 PM
#5
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Year: 1998
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Engine: I6
Checked the battery today. Battery is good! I'm going to try and check the starter tomorrow. Having trouble trying to find where to buy a new fuel check valve? Would it be better just to replace the pump?
02-19-2016, 11:12 PM
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1. Turn the key to ON for 5 seconds and let the fuel pump prime. Turn the key to OFF, turn the key back to ON for 5 seconds, start the engine.
If you short the 2 large terminals momentarily with a screwdriver, the starter should crank (chock the tires, trans in park, N for manuals, key OFF). If not, the starter, battery or battery cables are suspect- including the grounds.
If the starter does crank, check for +12V at the small terminal with a green wire when the key is turned to "start". (disconnect the green wire from the starter, measure between the wire and ground)
If nothing is there, check the fuses, ignition switch, NSS and PDC "Start" relay.
02-20-2016, 01:42 AM
#7
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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^^^
What he said... and....
Do you have any oil leaks that might be soaking your starter? They are common on these beasts, and after a while, they kill the starter.
What he said... and....
Do you have any oil leaks that might be soaking your starter? They are common on these beasts, and after a while, they kill the starter.
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02-21-2016, 12:31 PM
#8
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Year: 1998
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Engine: I6
Don't worry about the check valve for the time being. It's a nuisance, but you can work around it as mentioned previously:
There are three terminals on your starter. Two large, one small.
If you short the 2 large terminals momentarily with a screwdriver, the starter should crank (chock the tires, trans in park, N for manuals, key OFF). If not, the starter, battery or battery cables are suspect- including the grounds.
If the starter does crank, check for +12V at the small terminal with a green wire when the key is turned to "start". (disconnect the green wire from the starter, measure between the wire and ground)
If nothing is there, check the fuses, ignition switch, NSS and PDC "Start" relay.
There are three terminals on your starter. Two large, one small.
If you short the 2 large terminals momentarily with a screwdriver, the starter should crank (chock the tires, trans in park, N for manuals, key OFF). If not, the starter, battery or battery cables are suspect- including the grounds.
If the starter does crank, check for +12V at the small terminal with a green wire when the key is turned to "start". (disconnect the green wire from the starter, measure between the wire and ground)
If nothing is there, check the fuses, ignition switch, NSS and PDC "Start" relay.
Also checked the fuel pump relay (clicks) and I can hear the pump working.
Tried starting the car in neutral and wiggled the shifter a bunch to check the nss.
Still no crank!
02-21-2016, 01:03 PM
#9
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So do you have 12v on the trigger wire with the key to"start" like mentioned earlier?
If yes, starter solenoid.
If no, starter circuit problem. I'd start at jumping the nss and see if it cranks.
If yes, starter solenoid.
If no, starter circuit problem. I'd start at jumping the nss and see if it cranks.
02-23-2016, 12:21 PM
#10
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Year: 1998
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jeep wont crank!
Starter is good. New relay.
Battery is charged...and terminals are clean.
Changed the ignition switch and Ignition switch actuator pin.
Tried to start it in neutral and wiggled the gear shifter. Still no luck!
Any ideas? I really am trying to avoid taking it to the shop.
Battery is charged...and terminals are clean.
Changed the ignition switch and Ignition switch actuator pin.
Tried to start it in neutral and wiggled the gear shifter. Still no luck!
Any ideas? I really am trying to avoid taking it to the shop.
02-23-2016, 04:10 PM
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Year: 1998
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So do you have 12v on the trigger wire with the key to"start" like mentioned earlier?
If yes, starter solenoid.
If no, starter circuit problem. I'd start at jumping the nss and see if it cranks.
Attachment 283552
If yes, starter solenoid.
If no, starter circuit problem. I'd start at jumping the nss and see if it cranks.
Attachment 283552
02-23-2016, 05:21 PM
#14
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So do you have 12v on the trigger wire with the key to"start" like mentioned earlier?
If yes, starter solenoid.
If no, starter circuit problem. I'd start at jumping the nss and see if it cranks.
Attachment 283552
If yes, starter solenoid.
If no, starter circuit problem. I'd start at jumping the nss and see if it cranks.
Attachment 283552
More and more parts get replaced, broken etc and we still don't know the answer to that simple question?
Is there 12 volts at the small wire on the solenoid when the key is turned to the Start position?
02-29-2016, 01:12 PM
#15
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Hate to jump in here but I'm having the same issue. I don't have 12 volts to the small terminal. If I apply 12 volts it starts fine.