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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
i just bought my 96 cherokee classic last week. she has about a 3 inch lift on 31s, new 4.0 engine with 18k miles, lots of other stuff done to it by the previous owner. the only problem i’ve run into so far is a random high idle (goes up to 2000 rpm then comes back down). i’m pretty new to jeeps and automotive tech in general, so any pointers on maintenance/common problems/ things to watch out for etc would be super helpful. thanks!
Try cleaning the idle air control valve. It is very straightforward and they are plenty of videos out there on it.
If that doesn't work, tightening the intake/exhaust manifold bolts might be necessary. They are notorious for loosening up over time and assuming 18k after being last torqued, it's right about time where you'd want to at least check them. They can be a bit of a pain to get at, but if you're patient and have a variety of extensions and wrenches, you'll be fine. If you don't have that variety.. it's a good excuse to expand your tool collection.
Looks nice. I like the brush guard and the 10 hole gambler (stock) rims. Now all you need is a rear tire carrier, maybe some roof lights, and your good. Don't screw it up......haha.
If that doesn't work, tightening the intake/exhaust manifold bolts might be necessary. They are notorious for loosening up over time and assuming 18k after being last torqued, it's right about time where you'd want to at least check them. They can be a bit of a pain to get at, but if you're patient and have a variety of extensions and wrenches, you'll be fine. If you don't have that variety.. it's a good excuse to expand your tool collection.
Do you have the torque specs for those bolts? or just tight?
Also seach Cruiser54's mostly Renix tips. Even though yours is a 96 a lot of the stuff will still imply. If you have any questions about one of the tips just ask and somebody will let you know.
Do you have the torque specs for those bolts? or just tight?
The torque specifications for the 4.0 manifolds are extremely specific. The sequence needs to be followed; some of the bolt torques are different than others; this has varied over the years; and since this torque isn't a lot (generally about 23-24, but has been as low as 17 and as high as 30), there's a fine line between leaky gaskets and snapping bolts.
Further, torque values only apply to bolts in excellent condition. If you're trying to torque rusty bolts those values are meaningless.
The torque specifications for the 4.0 manifolds are extremely specific. The sequence needs to be followed; some of the bolt torques are different than others; this has varied over the years; and since this torque isn't a lot (generally about 23-24, but has been as low as 17 and as high as 30), there's a fine line between leaky gaskets and snapping bolts.
Further, torque values only apply to bolts in excellent condition. If you're trying to torque rusty bolts those values are meaningless.
I have to think that the 96 is like my 95 (with a 94 engine), in which case it's got pretty sturdy bolts.
If you can turn them by hand, they're too loose and since some are a pain to get at, you may have to go by feel. Tightening in order, of course, if you can't get the torque wrench on, err on the low side. You'll have to pull the airbox out and move some stuff to get a torque wrench if you want to be 100% sure. Also don't forget that the wobbly extensions affect the torque reading as well.
If you find loose ones, snug them up gently and you should be fine.
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Which part? The "wobbly extension" part? That's one of these. Great to have in your toolbox.
Or are you are familiar with them, but don't understand why that would affect the torque reading? They most certainly do, just like universal joints. Anything that has you cranking off angle, or that has some degree of slippage, will mess up a torque reading. You will not get a true reading.
The bottom line is, unless you really understand the subject and can make the necessary adjustments, all torque readings should be done with the socket and all extensions in perfect alignment with the fastener. Oh, and by the way, extensions mess with the reading, too.
Cruiser54 has his own website... hes a moderator here. its the Bible on what to fix when you get a new one. mostly cheap with a lil hard work. look him up on google.
I'll bet in reality, Randall isn't even using a torque wrench and is torquing by feel. When I asked Cruiser how to get a torque wrench on these very bolts he told me that he doesn't even use one IIRC.
Which part? The "wobbly extension" part? That's one of these. Great to have in your toolbox.
Or are you are familiar with them, but don't understand why that would affect the torque reading? They most certainly do, just like universal joints. Anything that has you cranking off angle, or that has some degree of slippage, will mess up a torque reading. You will not get a true reading.
The bottom line is, unless you really understand the subject and can make the necessary adjustments, all torque readings should be done with the socket and all extensions in perfect alignment with the fastener. Oh, and by the way, extensions mess with the reading, too.
Thanks for getting this.. I was about to go searching for my old post from when I was doing the exhaust manifold replacement and the discussion of torque and all that came up.
05-14-2019, 09:13 AM
new xj. any tips?
