New Ball Joints... Swerving
Hey guys.. I just replaced all my ball joints with Spicers (brand new) and replaced my tie-rods as well. I then went to get an alignment.
I have Three problems after/during the install 1. The nuts are way past where they are supposed to be... The cotter pin is about 1/8th of an inch away from the Castle Nuts. 2. I could not get the upper ball joint to close all the way. There was about 1/8th of an inch of the stud still showing and could not get it up there. The bottom sealed perfectly. After greasing, That 1/8th disappeared. 3. When driving down the road, it tracks perfectly straight until I need to touch the wheel (hit bump, dip, turn etc) and then the jeep has really bad memory steer... almost to the point where I can hardly keep it in the correct lane. Now ive read (on truck forums) that the ball joints might just need to break in? Somehow I think there is more to it than that... thoughts? |
Are you saying that it fails to return to center?
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Originally Posted by Dan91
(Post 2399507)
Are you saying that it fails to return to center?
Yes. It tries to go left or right and when I counter steer, it almost sticks to that side (back and forth) . Almost as if my knuckles are getting stuck (I can turn them by hand but they are pretty stiff) So when I hit a bump, it sticks (doesnt return to center) and pulls me that way. |
Haha so yea... it does not return to center
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Did you follow the proper torque sequence and torque them to spec? It's been a while (can't fully remember) but I think there's a specific order in how to torque the two nuts.
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I did notice that the alignment guy did not touch my caster. (I have that IRO caster adjuster) It is still in the same place that it was.. is it possible that with the new ball joints, I need to re adjust it?
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Originally Posted by Dan91
(Post 2399539)
Did you follow the proper torque sequence and torque them to spec? It's been a while (can't fully remember) but I think there's a specific order in how to torque the two nuts.
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Originally Posted by Ianf406
(Post 2399553)
I did torque them to 80 (read on another forum.. ball joints themselves didnt come with anything)... I did the bottom till it was on, top and torqued it, then torqued the bottom (I think thats how it was when I did the old Moogs)
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Originally Posted by Dan91
(Post 2399574)
Hmmm well that sounds about right. Caster shouldn't be affected by changing balljoints. It is possible that they are just tight and need a bit of breaking in I suppose...happened to me once, but I sold it a few weeks after so I'm not sure they ever did "break in."
Thanks for answering haha |
Haha, well hopefully some other people chime in. I've only done balljoints once, but I had the same issue you're having. I hate when you fix something and it creates another problem entirely lol
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Originally Posted by Dan91
(Post 2399601)
Haha, well hopefully some other people chime in. I've only done balljoints once, but I had the same issue you're having. I hate when you fix something and it creates another problem entirely lol
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Its almost the same as doint ujoints. Where you have to tap the yokes in order to get the caps the loosen up where the joint can move without much pressure. I've done the same to ball joints just tap the knuckles and usually they free up. Were there any problems before repalcing?
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Originally Posted by hbracing13
(Post 2399822)
Its almost the same as doint ujoints. Where you have to tap the yokes in order to get the caps the loosen up where the joint can move without much pressure. I've done the same to ball joints just tap the knuckles and usually they free up. Were there any problems before repalcing?
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Well I smacked it with a hammer a bunch... still having the same problem... any other ideas?
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Just throwing this out there but did you re attach your swaybar?
Miles |
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