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Needs some answers to my Axle, IAC, Steering and Turning issues

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Old 01-05-2013, 03:06 AM
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Default Needs some answers to my Axle, IAC, Steering and Turning issues

Hey.
So I have a problem with my rear axle. It happens after I drive for a while. Like 30 minutes at 75 or 40 at 55. When I slow down and stop at an intersection and then start driving again there is a horrible grinding noise in the rear end. It does not happen if I slow down to a crawl but don't stop nor does it happen on short trips or when I start driving. What is going on?

Also, I recently got 31's and now - also on a long trip - there was a weird vibration whenever I turned right. It wasn't like a thud thud thud vibration it was more like a powerful vibrator... (yes thats it the first ting I though of when I heard it..) (This dosn't happen on short trips.) Any ideas?

And another thing, my IAC valve is messed up. Is there a trick to changing it? I put a new one in and it wouldn't start unless i unplugged the IAC and then it would rev up to 3k rpm. Plugging it back in with the engine running didn't fix it .I didn't want my engine reving at 3k for too long. So I ended up putting the old one back in, still with some issues. Do I just wait for the IAC to settle or something or is the new one not working properly?

.. One more question;
Is there a way to tighten up the steering box? My steering wheel is really sloppy.

Thanks for any input guys!
Old 01-05-2013, 06:51 AM
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Pull the diff cover and inspect the components. Check the oil for pieces of metal. Since it's a d35 there's a good chance your side/spider gears are toast.

Might be time for some new u-joints and/or unit bearing hubs. Inspect, inspect, inspect....

Have you done a thorough throttle body cleaning including all of the air passages?
Old 01-05-2013, 08:14 AM
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1. Clean an inspect the throttle body. You will need to actually remove it to do a proper job. Mineral spirits ( paint thinner basically) is best to use as a cleaning agent.
2. The vibe is going to take longer to find but is also easy. Inspect wheel bearings by jacking each side up and pushing and pulling on the 12 , 3 , 6 and 9 o'clock positions on the tire. A small amount of movement, depending on the spot you pushing, is ok. Lots of movement is not.
3. Open your rear end up. Identify the type you have first. Oval with rubber plug and no flat tab on bottom is the Dana 35. Flat spot on bottom you have the 8.25 from Chrysler. Look for the afore mentioned metal in oil and the gears. If you know how pull the axles and inspect the bearings at the end of the axle tubes.
Old 01-05-2013, 03:22 PM
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The oil is fresh, there was no metal fragments or anything. I did not check the gears, I'll do that when the weather get better. I've been looking for new axles online but the supply is limited here in Norway.

I have replaced everything on the front end except wheel bearings so that might be it. Allthough the vibrations weren't there before...

I have cleaned the TB out good, I'll try and change the IAC again tomorrow and see if it settles in at a decent rpm.
Old 01-05-2013, 11:14 PM
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Also check your vacuum lines. A bad line will cause some of the idle issues. Have you checked your u joints? Those can cause vibrations in some cases.
Old 01-06-2013, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Borgli
Hey.

.. One more question;
Is there a way to tighten up the steering box? My steering wheel is really sloppy.

Thanks for any input guys!
Yes, but make sure it's the box first. Have a helper turn the wheel back and forth while you crawl underneath and find the source of the slop.

If it IS the box, there is an adjustment on top. Loosen the locknut, turn the center screw 1/8 turn clockwise, tighten the locknut while holding the center screw in place. See if the slop is improved.
Repeat as necessary....if at any point the steering binds on center or stops returning to center after a turn...stop and go back counter-clockwise again. Too loose is better than too tight, too tight will destroy the box in short order.
You can only compensate for a certain amount of wear with this adjustment, if the box is badly worn, the only fix is new internals (or replacement)
Old 01-06-2013, 05:36 AM
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Radi - I am sure it is the box, all the other components are brand new and I had it adjusted by a shop. I'll go out and see if i can find the nut on top of the thing. Also, one - or both - of the u-joints on the steering rod or whatever it is called are loose. How in the world do I get them out and where do I get new ones?

00jeepXJ - The vacumlines are all new and it good condition. I have changed the driver side u-joint as it was falling apart. The passenger side has been inspected and are ok. Could it be a wheelbearing issue?
Old 01-06-2013, 06:16 AM
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I reinstalled the new IAC valve, but this time I disconnected the battery while doing it and that fixed it. Settled in at 700-750 rpm.
Old 01-07-2013, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Borgli
Also, one - or both - of the u-joints on the steering rod or whatever it is called are loose. How in the world do I get them out and where do I get new ones?

I assume you mean the steering shaft that connects from the column to the steering box?
I don't know of any way to rebuild those properly, quadratec and some of the other Jeep suppliers sell them though. Or find a good one at a salvage yard.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...?apwcid=nextag
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