Kyle Morrison

Hey guys,

First time CF poster, lurked for a while. Owned my JEEP XJ for 1.5 years and had extensive work done. Here is everything new:

1998 Jeep Cherokee Limited 4.0L 4x4 (Currently 203K on the odo)
-Remmaned motor 4.0L (with full specs sheet)
-New torque Converter
-New fuel pump
-New fuel lines
-All new tie rod ends
-All ball joints new
-MOOG sway bar links
-MOOG track bar
-Rough Country 3" Springs/ Struts/ Add-a-leaf
-Flowmaster 40 (don't berate me, everyone does something stupid.)
-OEM Cat
-New walker tailpipe
I also have all the paper receipts of work done from previous owner (2008-2014)

Now, I've only done a portion of the work myself to be honest- not that I am not inclined to do so, but weather and a busy sales job keeps me on the move to much. Because of this lapse in years of NOT working on vehicles, sometimes I need clarification on if what I am thinking is correct? I took 2 years of being mechanic's apprentice in High School, but that was 9 years ago, and I don't remember crap.

So here are my questions with pictures!






Track bar bushing with grease until it oozed out the sides, but still looks like there's play?






here's one joint, greased up, but looks likes its lacking some???





This is the top of that joint that looks to be under filled with grease?? I hear a minor clunk sound from time to time on the right side of the front end.





Now this is concerning. The guy that installed the lift kit put in the new tack bar. Looks as if the stud isn't seated?? This might be causing the 60-62mph shimmy?? This is supposed to be a recommended mechanic.





I have a mild clunk from what sounds like the track bar and/or the right side front end. Thoughts?

Here's the build in progress.

aroundincircles

that track bar bolt needs to be tightened down for sure... i would grab a wrench and give it a go.

Kyle Morrison

Whats on the backside of that right ride track bar stud?

Turbo X_J

This will put you into the ditch (or oncoming traffic) for sure.

SatiricalHen

Definitely need to tighten that bolt before thinking about driving it. That's not safe at all. I'd check every bolt he touched. If you cut the fenders, fold them don't just hack them, more support, don't cut the pinch weld in the rear. I'd get rid of those add a leafs ASAP. Check the underside for rust. Good luck.

Kyle Morrison

Guys, I appreciate the responses. Should I be raising a fit? Wasn't the track supposed to be re-positioned by drilling a new hole, during the lift install?

Kyle Morrison

Tighten'd down.

Turbo X_J

Yes, bolt head flush with the bracket, torque is 75 ft. lbs. Track bar mounting will need to be re-positioned if the axle isn't centered.

SatiricalHen

I wouldn't drill a new hole. I would buy a new track bar.

Kyle Morrison

I just tighten'd it down, it has less than 75 miles on the way it was..brand new.

SatiricalHen

you said drilling a new hole which is a bad idea. If you lifted and the axle is no longer centered you need an adjustable track bar to fix it, drilling a new hole isn't the right way to do it.

Fred/N0AZZ

He is correct on both points you do need to replace the AAL's with a full leaf pack as they will fail quickly and sag on old leafs. I guess they did install new coil springs of the correct height? A good place to buy leafs/coils made in NA is Rustys Off Road cost vs. quality is excellent.


IMO its not a good idea to re-drill a track bar, but buy and adj one or better yet an adj double shear one and not worry about it again and sell the one you now have.

Kyle Morrison

Yeah you guys are correct. Thanks for the insight.

Still having an issue with shimmy 55-62mph, intermittently. Sometimes it won't shimmy from 55-62, but 80% of the time it does. What else in the front end that hasn't been replaced would cause this?? Control arms? I can take pics if that'll help. I know I put tire slime in the front right tire this winter to stop a slow leak- could an out of balance tire cause this?