is my mechanic ripping me off?
#1
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-4
is my mechanic ripping me off?
im 17 yrs old, and my mechanic knows it...
ive got an 87, 4x4, 4cyl, w/ax-4 manual... when i go freeway speeds on a hot day, my clutch gets hot, and will go all the way to the floor and the tranmission will not go into gear... i figure, my clutch cylinder either has bad fluid, has air in it, or i need a new clutch cylinder altogether... but my mechanic tells me, i need a whole new clutch... this is not my daily driver, so its doesnt see the freeway often at all... and operates fine at 50mph or less for as long as i have driven it... do i need to replace the whole thing? or is it just a matter of needing new fluids? i was told if i replced the tranny fluid it might shorten the life of it, this sounds comletely idiotic to me... what should i do?
ive got an 87, 4x4, 4cyl, w/ax-4 manual... when i go freeway speeds on a hot day, my clutch gets hot, and will go all the way to the floor and the tranmission will not go into gear... i figure, my clutch cylinder either has bad fluid, has air in it, or i need a new clutch cylinder altogether... but my mechanic tells me, i need a whole new clutch... this is not my daily driver, so its doesnt see the freeway often at all... and operates fine at 50mph or less for as long as i have driven it... do i need to replace the whole thing? or is it just a matter of needing new fluids? i was told if i replced the tranny fluid it might shorten the life of it, this sounds comletely idiotic to me... what should i do?
#2
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Year: 1999
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One or both the master or slave cylinder is worn out and not working when hot. Probably the slave cylinder since it's surrounded by heat. Since you need to remove the tranny anyways to service the clutch cyl, might as well toss a new disc and resurface the pressure plate while you are in there. He is probably correct. For a job like that, if you cannot do it yourself you need to be prepared for the co$t.
#3
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it sounds to me it is a bad master or slave cylinder. if it is the slafe you have to open up the tranny so u might as well put new clutch and pressure plate in at the same time, will be cheaper then have to replace down the line. But if it is jsut the master you can just replace that yoru self or get a repair kit, the master slave has rubber diaprams inside that wear out over time when that happens you dont get a good seal so you your hydrolic cluch dont work.
new master cylinder cost aroudn 40-60 click here
master cylinder repair kit 25-40 click here
new master cylinder cost aroudn 40-60 click here
master cylinder repair kit 25-40 click here
#4
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What happens when you pump it up a couple of times? Your problem sounds like the slave cylinder. Have you tried bleeding it yet and putting in some fresh fluid? This is cheap and easy. (with help)
I had experienced a similar problem with my clutch...sort of- earlier this year when I put my motor in. While the motor and tranny were apart, I told myself "might as well put a new clutch in"
I went to O'reillys and got a Fenco clutch- bad idea. The clutch would engage right at the point where the pedal meets the floorboard, and when you drove it for about an hour or so, it wouldn't go into gear. I figured this is because the disk/friction material was swelling.I had to take it back down, get my money back on that no name trash (Fenco), and went to Pep Boys to get a LUK clutch.
LUK, Hays, Sacs, or perhaps a Centerforce would be the only clutches I would use.
Don't be scared to tackle it (you and a buddy/neighbor) it's easy. Leave the T-case bolted up, and put the jack on the crossmember...that's the balancing point. You'll never learn if you don't do it. If you want it done right, you've got to do it yourself. No one works on my vehicles except me, not even the clowns at the tire shop. I bring the tires to them!
I had experienced a similar problem with my clutch...sort of- earlier this year when I put my motor in. While the motor and tranny were apart, I told myself "might as well put a new clutch in"
I went to O'reillys and got a Fenco clutch- bad idea. The clutch would engage right at the point where the pedal meets the floorboard, and when you drove it for about an hour or so, it wouldn't go into gear. I figured this is because the disk/friction material was swelling.I had to take it back down, get my money back on that no name trash (Fenco), and went to Pep Boys to get a LUK clutch.
LUK, Hays, Sacs, or perhaps a Centerforce would be the only clutches I would use.
Don't be scared to tackle it (you and a buddy/neighbor) it's easy. Leave the T-case bolted up, and put the jack on the crossmember...that's the balancing point. You'll never learn if you don't do it. If you want it done right, you've got to do it yourself. No one works on my vehicles except me, not even the clowns at the tire shop. I bring the tires to them!
Last edited by farmfuel; 02-05-2009 at 08:16 AM.
#5
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Year: 1987
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Check the master and slave cylinders for evidence of leaking. Remember to check inside the Jeep where the master cylinder linkage comes through the firewall. I'm betting you will find one or the other is bad and leaking. If nothing is leaking. Purge out the old fluid. Refill with fresh and bleed it it really thoroughly. I believe this will fix your problem. Now, if you replace bad slave or master cylinder and fluid and you still are having problems. Then and onlt then, would I look into the clutch itself being bad. So, check and replace in this order.
1.) new fluid and bleed system.
2.) new master and/or slave cylinder.
3.) new clutch?? I really don't think the clutch itself is bad...and yes, I do think your mechanic is trying to rip you off.
1.) new fluid and bleed system.
2.) new master and/or slave cylinder.
3.) new clutch?? I really don't think the clutch itself is bad...and yes, I do think your mechanic is trying to rip you off.
#6
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its not that u need the new clutch it the fact that if your goign to open up your tranny to replace the slave you should go ahead and replace the clutch so u dont have to creak the tranny open again down the line to just replace the clutch.
Yeah he is trying to sell mroe then what is needed to fix the probelm but he is doing some thing that will safe you money dw the line
Yeah he is trying to sell mroe then what is needed to fix the probelm but he is doing some thing that will safe you money dw the line
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have you even checked the fluid
1 its bad fluid
2 just needs adjusting
3 bad master cylinder
4 I don't think its a bad slave cus if it was you would have to add fluid all the time but that is a possibility if you haven't check the fluid
and its not your clutch but if you need to remove tranny to fix the slave
replace the clutch at the same time
1 its bad fluid
2 just needs adjusting
3 bad master cylinder
4 I don't think its a bad slave cus if it was you would have to add fluid all the time but that is a possibility if you haven't check the fluid
and its not your clutch but if you need to remove tranny to fix the slave
replace the clutch at the same time
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#8
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this is what to do
1) check level of fluid
2) bleed the line ( if dont work move on)
3) Replace ore rebuild master
Now you may need the mechanics help unless u think u can do this your self
4) Replace the slave and while your at it should replace clutch and resurface flywheel
1) check level of fluid
2) bleed the line ( if dont work move on)
3) Replace ore rebuild master
Now you may need the mechanics help unless u think u can do this your self
4) Replace the slave and while your at it should replace clutch and resurface flywheel
#9
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Sounds like the slave cylinder/trow out bearing is going bad, you mechanic is probably trying to get you to do the job as a one shot deal, we do it at the dealership but we give the customer the option, this is whats bad and what has to be done to replace it, this may go bad next, might as well replace it all once.
Ask him why you need a whole new clutch if he says that's it's the throwout bearing and it is recommended to replace it all at one time then he is trying to save you down time later.
Ask him why you need a whole new clutch if he says that's it's the throwout bearing and it is recommended to replace it all at one time then he is trying to save you down time later.
#11
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Year: 1987
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thanks for the help, the fluid was the first thing i checked, and th level hasnt moved since i got it... i will try to purge theold fluid and replce it, an if that doesnt work, ill replace the master cylinder... ive never done this before, but im happy to try and do it myself(i usally just ask the mechanic, and try to fix it myself), i have a haynes repair manual, and its pretty helpful, but the trouble shooting pages, just tell you what can be wrong, instead of helping you figure excactly what is happening...
as for getting a 4.0, wel i dont have the cash, or motive, i got this jeep in great condition for $450, and that cant be beat around here, plus my lack of power is pretty unnoticable, when my buddies drive 4cyl toyotas, and samurais!
as for getting a 4.0, wel i dont have the cash, or motive, i got this jeep in great condition for $450, and that cant be beat around here, plus my lack of power is pretty unnoticable, when my buddies drive 4cyl toyotas, and samurais!
#12
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I had the same problem when I got my first XJ the mechanic (a man that I trusted) tried to get me to fix it all at once and I was hessitant since I was low on money at the time so he just replaced the master and slave cylinders...a month later the clutch went bad so I had to get it replaced and I wished that I had listend to my mechanic the first time around especially after he told me that I would have save a little bit of cash if I would have let him do it the first time around.
#13
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If you all are going to recommend the 4.0 to this kid, you may as well recommend the AW4 auto tranny along with it. They are a great combo and you don't have to F with a clutch system at all anymore.
#14
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good call although I have an 89 with an ax15 5 speed and a 96 wit the aw4 and I have yet to make up my mind on which one I like better as far as driving but as for working on them I will go with the AW4 every time.