motor oil
 

should it be colored like chocolate syrup?

No... Definitely not.

Change that ****.

In the past my oil has gone from honey yellow to black. If its brown it could be going bad, or possibly got to hot at one point and burnt. I know that's the case for transmission oil being brown. Just my $0.02

Yes if it hasn't been changed in this century...You may want to take peek inside the valve cover to assess the amount of sludge that needs to be removed...

its not thick and black like chocolate syrup, more like chocolate milk..4 spoons full of nesquick

Change the oil and use a good quality oil with a good filter like a NAPA Gold run it for a week and if it looks that way again change it again. Castrol oil is a good quality oil to use but avoid Pennzoil like the plague and Fram filters cheap crap. I have been cutting oil filters apart for the last 25 years and once you start doing that you will see what I'm talking about very little filtering ability at all compared to better filters.

Another advantage to cutting open your filters is that you can spot any undue ware in engine and what the material it is. I changed oil/filter every race weekend for many years Mobil I and NASCAR Racing filters (2) 9 qts. of oil cheap insurance for anyone.

Once you get it clean change the oil/filter every 1500 mi for a couple of times just to be sure.

Chocolate milk looking oil...

Been loosing any coolant?

okay so what color should motor oil be?

I'll take "cylinder head" for $500 Alex....

Clean oil should be amber like honey. Slightly dirty oil will be darker like maple syrup. Very dirty oil will be almost black like molasses (it should not be as thick as molasses though).

"Chocolate milkshake oil" is usually a sign of coolant in the oil.

Can we get some of those fancy color photographs of said oil?

I second that.

Hogwash. Please join us here in the 21st century. ANY SM/SN rated oil will be fine.

I'm in.

You tell that to anyone running race motors even cheap ones like mine but still in the $45-60,000 range and the filters. How many race engine builders shops with dynos have you worked with an engine on the dyno tuning and for how long have you spent around a racing engine builders?

How many HP can be gained by using different oils?? Lets talk about a few of those things then we will see where the "Hogwash" is coming from. I guess you could say I'm in the "21st" Century my present engine is 381 ci. Dart Block/Heads/Fuel Injected with 100 pph injectors with twin turbo, air to water intercoolers. At 21 # of boost it makes 1480 HP. It is setup for NOS (Big Shot 500 hp) but I have never sprayed it. To be truthful the NOS was put on there for the show factor and mounted in the rear under the spare tire cover in the wagon along with the battery, Fuel Cell.

What are you basing your opinion ON???

I ended up using an oil that cost me a few HP on the dyno for more engine protection still Mobile 1 but had to change from 5w30 to 15w50

All this talk about oil is making me hungry......

I'm with you guys on checking for coolant loss and gandering into the oil filler with a light.

OP, got another vehicle at home or in the hood?

Compare oils.

Analyzing oil by looking at it is an opinionated guess at best. Send a sample to a lab if you want real data. An old school mechanic can check for contamination and dispensary with a simple blotter test. I use the blotter test to determine when it is time to change oil.

Your comment was to avoid Pennzoil like the plague.
The anti-pennzoil stuff was based on old wive's tales that circulated in the 70's, started by Pennzoil's competitors. I was working for the Ford dealer back then. Back when motors were blowing up on Mobil 1 and their 10K OCI's.
Truth is there are plenty of race motors running on Pennzoil, HP builders do not avoid it like the plague, nor is there any reason to.
One of the most respected oils out there- Brad Penn, is made from base stock pulled from the old Kendall wells, same green stock that Pennzoil was accused of creating engine sludge with decades ago, lol. Those old lies were just that then, and are just that now.

These aren't race motors, they're the equivalent of a 1955 Massey Ferguson.
Any oil meeting the correct standards can, and does- run fine and we're discussing Jeep motors here, not track plants.
Fram OTOH, you won't find any disagreement from most anyone here on avoiding that.

How about a fresh oil/filter change?
If the milkiness returns, I would check the heads for a crack or bad seal.
Easy and cheap enough.

got oil change yesterday.

The fact that if any oil was really bad, it could not pass the testing to earn SN certification.

Never heard of it. Mobile is a city in AL. Mobil 1, on the other hand...

BTW, how does all this talk about 1000+HP race engines apply to DDs and trail rigs with nearly-stock engines?

BTW, here is a link with some UOAs. You can browse through, it's kind of interesting. I'm sure there are some using Pennzoil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...ge=1&PHPSESSID=

BITOG is a great site to learn about oils/lubes.