might be a dumb question BUT im going to ask anyways!!
09-21-2012, 05:19 PM
#1
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Year: 1999
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might be a dumb question BUT im going to ask anyways!!
I read on a thread in here about changing the transmission filter and fluid that struck me as odd. It said that if the transmission fluid has never been changed before to not do it now as it will mess up the transmission....I didnt see anyone rebut his comment so is that true?
Thanks in advance
MUD
Thanks in advance
MUD
09-21-2012, 05:40 PM
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I have always heard a similar thing. Not changing the filter though its Flushing the tranny. Its good to change filter and let the fluid drain. But I wouldn't flush the tranny. I'm sure there will be a debate over this.
I was always told that flushing the tranny will move all the dirt and metal around which could cause problems. I'm not a mechanic though.
I was always told that flushing the tranny will move all the dirt and metal around which could cause problems. I'm not a mechanic though.
09-21-2012, 06:22 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO Straight Six
Just a simple drain, filter change and refill should be fine. If you have over 20,000 (twenty thousand) miles I wouldn't flush the tranny. Hell, I probably wouldn't flush it at 500 miles. I've heard too many horror stories.
09-21-2012, 06:46 PM
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ
Just a simple drain, filter change and refill should be fine. If you have over 20,000 (twenty thousand) miles I wouldn't flush the tranny. Hell, I probably wouldn't flush it at 500 miles. I've heard too many horror stories.
09-21-2012, 07:13 PM
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Sometimes even a simple drain and refill will kill a severely neglected transmission that's on it's last leg. The grit and crap in the fluid was providing just enough friction for the worn out clutches and bands to grab.
Last edited by Radi; 09-21-2012 at 07:15 PM.
09-21-2012, 07:59 PM
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My trans fluid isn't red at all anymore almost looks like new motor oil.. Just bought it with 180k on it. Would it be a bad idea to drop the pan and do filter and fluid?
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09-21-2012, 08:18 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 v8
My vote and experience goes for the process of changing it without a flush.
Just drop the pan and filter, drain, replace, refill.
If its terrible you may want to do it again in a few thousand miles, maybe do it a few times like that until your fluid is looking as it should.
If your transmission bites it after that, it was probably already going to happen anyways.
Just drop the pan and filter, drain, replace, refill.
If its terrible you may want to do it again in a few thousand miles, maybe do it a few times like that until your fluid is looking as it should.
If your transmission bites it after that, it was probably already going to happen anyways.
09-21-2012, 08:33 PM
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
I dropped the pan about 5000 miles ago on my 42RE in my ZJ and found metal and junk in the pan, kind of scarey. I ended up dropping the pan again a week later to replace the crappy rubber gasket with a reusable gasket from the dealer and found no more metal in the pan. Transmission is working great with 203k miles on it, but I know it won't last forever.
09-21-2012, 08:59 PM
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Year: 1998
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I would always much rather have fresh fluid in a trans. (I don't believe in flushes, but rather, as many changes as needed to get fresh fluid in there.) If a trans is in such bad shape that a simple drain 'n fill kills it, it would've died on its own real soon anyway. If it doesn't die, it will live much longer with the fresh fluid than it would've with dirty, worn out fluid.
09-21-2012, 09:32 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Black fluid is a bad sign. Personally, rather
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the granny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush I'd far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.
Macgyver35 deserves the credit for this write up. Hope this helps. But be prepared for some fun though.
Good luck!
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the granny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush I'd far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.
Macgyver35 deserves the credit for this write up. Hope this helps. But be prepared for some fun though.
Good luck!
09-21-2012, 09:34 PM
#14
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Last year mine was shifting kinda sluggish. I pulled the drain plug and let it drain. I then refilled with the same amount that drained with Lucas Transmission Treatment (didn't seem like much, maybe half a quart or so?) It's been running like a champ and I'm gonna leave it alone.
09-21-2012, 11:26 PM
#15
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Black fluid is a bad sign. Personally, rather
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the granny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush I'd far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.
Macgyver35 deserves the credit for this write up. Hope this helps. But be prepared for some fun though.
Good luck!
then draining the pan 4 or 5 times, I
prefer the "let the granny pump do the
work" method.
Disconnect the upper transmission line
from the radiator. Push a 4-5 foot length
of hose onto the fitting on the radiator
and drop the other end in a 5 gallon
bucket.
Tips: A length of old 5/8" garden hose
works for this. Use a worm clamp to hold
the hose on the fitting. Trust me, you
don't want this coming loose. Place a 3"
C- clamp or some other contraption on
the rim of the bucket to hold the end of
the hose a couple inches inside the top of
the bucket. Again, you don't want this
coming loose.
Stick a decent sized funnel in the fill tube
for the tranny and arm yourself with 8-10
quarts of the proper ATF. Now you need a
helper.
Have the helper start the engine and
keep their foot on the brake. As soon as
they do, your old black fluid will start
coming out of the hose into the bucket.
Your job is to pour new fluid down the fill
hole at the same rate its coming out of
the hose. Don't worry about being exact,
just keep the funnel full. Keep watch of
the fluid going into the bucket. It should
start looking better. After your first
gallon, have your friend, with e-brake and
foot brake both applied, shift through the
full range of gears, stopping for about a 4
count at each spot. Once he's at the
bottom, he can put it in Park for the rest
of the process. When you see nice red
fluid coming out of the hose, stop filling
the funnel and let it empty. About 5
seconds after it does, have your friend kill
the engine.
Hook everything back up. You've just
done a complete, or nearly complete
change of your fluid, including all that sits
in the torque converter! This method is a
" forward flush" as apposed to a "reverse
flush" that many shops do. The forward
flush I'd far less likely to damage all the
seals in the tranny and is gentler on
things as it uses the tranny's own pump
and normal operating pressures to do the
flush!
Once you're done and everything is
buttoned up, take it for about a 15 mile
drive to get everything up to full hot.
Check and top off your fluid as necessary. This method is also done all top side, so its easier to stay clean, doesn't require crawling under there on your back, or trying to change all the fluid 3 quarts at a time by draining the pan multiple times.
Macgyver35 deserves the credit for this write up. Hope this helps. But be prepared for some fun though.
Good luck!
Thanks for mentioning my name, but it's not my original idea. I remembered seeing it described on some other forum post; maybe on here or another site. Anyway, I gave it a try and it worked well.
And for anyone that is curious, it's probably been about 6 months since I did this, it made an immediate improvement, and I've had no problems since. I just used the Wally World brand of Dex/Merc.