Master Power Window Wiring Hot?
08-12-2017, 08:16 PM
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Master Power Window Wiring Hot?
I drove the jeep this morning and rolled the window down. Got home and tried to roll it up and nothing happened. No windows are working. I managed to roll it up with some jumper wires. I noticed that the wiring in the connector (2 or 3 wires to the opposite side of the connector from the 2 wires for the drivers side window) would get extremely hot within a few seconds of plugging into the switch and turning the key on. I went around and unplugged all the other windows and still had the same results. I don't see any wiring damage and I removed the boot at the door. I checked all the wires with a multimeter and saw no evidence of a short. There is no sign of the wires getting hot if they are not plugged into the master switch. I ordered a new master a few minutes ago, but any ideas of anything I need to look at while I wait a week for it to come in? The Jeep is a 98 Cherokee Sport. Thanks for any help
08-13-2017, 08:32 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
Get this fixed ASAP! A potential fried harness or worse a Fire hazard!
I'd leave the connector unplugged in the meantime.
If none of the wires leading to the switch pod are shorting to ground, the motor works ok by jumpering it and its only when you plug the wires into the switch pod that the wires get hot, then its a good bet the short circuit is internally in the switch pod.
I think you're on the right track by replacing the switch pod.
There's a very remote possibility one of the switches is stuck in the 'on' position either mechanically or by its contacts which might of got welded in the 'on' position.
I'd leave the connector unplugged in the meantime.
If none of the wires leading to the switch pod are shorting to ground, the motor works ok by jumpering it and its only when you plug the wires into the switch pod that the wires get hot, then its a good bet the short circuit is internally in the switch pod.
I think you're on the right track by replacing the switch pod.
There's a very remote possibility one of the switches is stuck in the 'on' position either mechanically or by its contacts which might of got welded in the 'on' position.
08-18-2017, 02:12 PM
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I changed the master controller about 3 years ago. The new one came in today and I plugged it in. The wiring remained cool and all the windows work. I don't know if there is something wrong that caused the switch to burn out after a couple of years or if the switch was just poorly made. One thing good though is that the last switch I bought was almost a hundred bucks and this one was like 20 bucks.