It's probably DOT 3. Most (if not all Cherokees are DOT 3). Never hurts to flush the system. If you just leaked out the fluid (didn't disconnect anything) and you still had fluid in the brake reservoir, you didn't get air in the system and should be able to just top it back up with DOT 3. If you lost it all, you would have only lost one of the reservoirs (since that's why there two compartments in the master cylinder (one does the front and one does the back). If one compartment is empty, you will probably have to bleed the back breaks.


Drum brakes are a pain. I've done them quite a few times (Mazda, GMC, Chevy, Jeep, Chryslers) and often there is something slightly different and I don't get it quite right or the kit I got had extra parts (or not enough). Sometimes if time is of the essence, it's not a disgrace to take it in.


I just took my rear springs off my Cherokee. When you get all the bolts off, you have to lower the axle. It was all going great until I noticed that the axle was almost hanging by the flex brake line!! I quickly jacked it back up and hopefully I didn't wreck it. We all do stupid things!!

 

Earlier I said 4-5 ounces, but that might've been an exaggeration. We use metric here so my conversion rate was probably off. I have about half the container filled, under the 'ADD' line. At least that's a good news.

I'll probably still try to remove as much fluid as possible and put new back in, and only bleed that rear line. The left shoe is in the position it would be if I was pushing the break pedal, so I have to figure out how to get it back further in in order to be able to put the drum back in.





Yeah we all learn at some point, sometimes the hard way. If it wasn't my DD I'd be less stressed but since I need to drive it on monday I simply hope I can get it fixed.

 

They master cylinder will say what type of fluid. I'm betting DOT 3. With that entire cylinder cap coming off I'm sure there is air on that side. So you will need to bleed that side.


EMERGENCY BRAKING - DANGEROUS

If everything goes back together, the barking brake can be used to slow your vehicle. It is a hard line, like bicycle brakes. With the e brake connected properly it will effectively cycle your drum brakes. REMEMBER- the E-break only cycles the rear drum brakes. So you are trying to stop an entire vehicle with only 2 brakes vs the normal 4. It is very unsafe and will certainly be hard to control at higher speeds (25mph).

It is a very very last resort option in my opinion. Towing would be better and far safer for the other drivers and yourself. Hazard lights and put it in 1st towing gear if you want to put yourself in that risk.

 

My issue is on the driver side, so I'll do rear driver, then front driver.

If the main brakes don't work I won't even try to drive it. It could be manageable with a good ebrake, but mine is on its way out (unless it was not setup properly the last time the brakes were done and works fine after I'm done with it, but I don't know if that's possible. the cable seemed loose when I removed it but I can't be 100% sure)

 

Dot 3 & 4 are compatible,but dot 4 has a higher boiling point.
You need a rebuild kit for both sides.
I don't like the way the "hook" on your spring looks.
I have rebuilt wheel cylinders before,but for what you will spend on the kit,and due to some uncertainty on the outcome,just buy a new cylinder.

 

I'm glad I read all of these posts and comments. Ive decided to replace the drums to discs as soon as I have the money. Disc brakes are so much simpler to deal with in my opinion.

 

Like this:
Passenger side rear
Driver side rear
Passenger side front
Driver side front

 

If the tops won't go "home" to the pin up top, see that that seal/cap isn't keeping the push-rod from going in. (the one I mentioned earlier) DOT 3 from Safeway or the local market will be fine.

With it all together, matching the other side, you may need to pop the shoe assembly right or left with your palm to get it centered for the drum.

Actually in that process is where I tighten the adjuster wheel as tight as I can and still get the drum on. The auto adjusters usually don't work, so adjusting them through the slot is needed to get a high, firm petal.

 

First of all thanks for the replies.

So far I've put everything back together, but noticed the adjuster doesn't screw/unscrew. I'm pretty sure it was this way when I first pulled the drum cover when I had no issue, so it should still be fine right? I know in an ideal world I'd go and buy a new adjuster, but like I said earlier, auto part stores are closed today around here.

Now that everything is back together (did it 3 times to be sure everything is setup fine) I have kind of a poor fitment, the cover goes back on but not evenly. I feel I could force it completely inside, but I'd like some insight first before doing so. Will it fix itself once I bleed the system?

Here's some pics. As you can see, the middle of the outer axle shaft part is not completely centered with the cover, at the bottom left there's a small gap. (I tried taking a look at the other side, but the brakes are applied, I guess from putting pressure yesterday when all this happened)

 

I'm afraid that is not going to work out, you may want to wait and get some parts.

 

But is it the adjuster that's causing this?

 

Something is preventing the drum from seating fully on the axle flange. I couldn't say for sure it is the adjuster since you stated that it is seized up. It could also be a ridge on the braking surface on the drum.

ETA:
Is the parking brake strut fully seated in the shoes?

 

Manuals for XJ's say DOT 3. if youre bleeding the whole system, you're going to get rid of all the fluid that was in there previously anyways. Whether you decide to go with DOT 3 or 4, just make sure its all properly bled. I would go with DOT 3, but if you wanted to go with 4 it won't matter.

 

Yes-Something isn't right. Did you keep your old shoes? Maybe try putting them back on to see if they fit better. There are 9" and 10" brake shoes -Did you check to make sure you had the right size?

 

the adjuster piece is threaded in the center, you can unscrew it and clean the threads then lubricate them with a high-temp grease (brake lube or anti-seize will work)

make sure you have the shoes on the correct facing, they are front/rear specific