LIFT ?s....
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
LIFT ?s....
Ok well i am gonna be getting a sweet deal on a rusty's 6.5 short arm lift and practically new 34x10.5 TSL's already mounted on wheels. I know I am going to need brake lines, drop pitman arm, and rear spring/blocks and shackles. will i need a slip yolk eliminator? What else will I need and/or any suggestions. Thanks for the advise
Last edited by foxgirl1018; 04-01-2009 at 11:49 AM.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Ok well i am gonna be getting a sweet deal on a rusty's 6.5 short arm lift and practically new 34x10.5 TSL's already mounted on wheels. I know I am going to need brake lines, drop pitman arm, and rear spring/blocks and shackles. will i need a slip yolk eliminator? What else will I need and/or any suggestions. Thanks for the advise
with short arms, that angle is going to be crazy on them...which equals a horrible ride. i'd recommend getting adj upper and lower control arms. if you plan on sticking with short arms, get drop brackets for them. that will bring the angle down to an acceptable range. Yes you will need an SYE...also a double cardon drive shaft for the rear (same as the front). probably need some shims in there to set your rear pinion angle.
what else am i forgeting...
#3
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
6.5 is huge...
with short arms, that angle is going to be crazy on them...which equals a horrible ride. i'd recommend getting adj upper and lower control arms. if you plan on sticking with short arms, get drop brackets for them. that will bring the angle down to an acceptable range. Yes you will need an SYE...also a double cardon drive shaft for the rear (same as the front). probably need some shims in there to set your rear pinion angle.
what else am i forgeting...
with short arms, that angle is going to be crazy on them...which equals a horrible ride. i'd recommend getting adj upper and lower control arms. if you plan on sticking with short arms, get drop brackets for them. that will bring the angle down to an acceptable range. Yes you will need an SYE...also a double cardon drive shaft for the rear (same as the front). probably need some shims in there to set your rear pinion angle.
what else am i forgeting...
and is anyone running the cheap SYE kits that you cut the shaft?
#4
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0 HO
so is there a cheaper way to go for the rear cardon? say a shaft from another vehicle. I asked this once before in another forum, but those folks only believe in buying super expensive stuff so they were no help.
and is anyone running the cheap SYE kits that you cut the shaft?
and is anyone running the cheap SYE kits that you cut the shaft?
check this out.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...ighlight=th350
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.ph...ive+shaft+rear
This looks like it will work pretty good.
#5
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yeah 6.5" with short arms might be a stretch. at that much lift you will need an sye. might want to look into an adj. tracbar also.
#6
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0L Air Intake and TB Spacer
That drop pitman may actually do the oppisite effect and give you bump steer.
Go with 4.5" leafs and 1.5" Boomerang Shackles. NO BLOCKS. You will need a Adj. Tracbar. Get some dropbrackets and adj control arms. RE H&T and a xj auto front DS work, but there is a flange you need (I don't have the part number though).
Go with 4.5" leafs and 1.5" Boomerang Shackles. NO BLOCKS. You will need a Adj. Tracbar. Get some dropbrackets and adj control arms. RE H&T and a xj auto front DS work, but there is a flange you need (I don't have the part number though).
#7
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Year: 1994
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That drop pitman may actually do the oppisite effect and give you bump steer.
Go with 4.5" leafs and 1.5" Boomerang Shackles. NO BLOCKS. You will need a Adj. Tracbar. Get some dropbrackets and adj control arms. RE H&T and a xj auto front DS work, but there is a flange you need (I don't have the part number though).
Go with 4.5" leafs and 1.5" Boomerang Shackles. NO BLOCKS. You will need a Adj. Tracbar. Get some dropbrackets and adj control arms. RE H&T and a xj auto front DS work, but there is a flange you need (I don't have the part number though).
also 2x on that drop pitman, I took mine off of my 4.5 inch lift cause I was scaring me and others around me on Houston's "great" roads.
Also i ran 3" blocks for over a year and never had an issue, so that is an each his own thing. Blocks are chzy and yea they look VERY crappy, but they do work and do get the job done, but will kill your springs with warp in less then a year.
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#8
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Year: 2000
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i run the performance off road center (porc) sye. Its one of the cheapest ones (150 i think? without doing a hack an tap) and it uses a super strong output shaft. this sye also allows u to run the same driveshaft front and rear. just pick up another front driveshaft, that will work in the rear.
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i run the performance off road center (porc) sye. Its one of the cheapest ones (150 i think? without doing a hack an tap) and it uses a super strong output shaft. this sye also allows u to run the same driveshaft front and rear. just pick up another front driveshaft, that will work in the rear.
#10
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i actually know quite a few people running it with 4-5 inches...no problem. ill be at about 5 inches, im not worried about it. course, what axle u have also makes a difference, as the pinion sticks out more on some.
#11
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I have the a different 8.25 yoke on my diff, it is about .4 inches longer cause the dealer didn't have my exact one in stock and I broke my old one and needed a replacement ASAP. So now my rear seal is kinda ruffed up from the drive shaft yoke bottoming out, so I think that little extra length will help with a front shaft.
also I thought a HT conversion would be cheap, but there 190 bucks and a full conversion is 150! that is ridiculous, but I wanted the HT cause I really don't want to rip my TC apart.
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
Use the front shaft and it will work but save up for that custom shaft as the front will not take the abuse of the lift and rough trails forever. Rebuild it before you install it with new high quality u joints and you might get a years worth of use from it.
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