Hotwire

When I start it cold, it starts right upl and Sounds like this:


But when it warms up, the oil pressure drops, and it starts to tick then rattle at idle.

on a hot start there is a bad rattle for a second then it goes away, but the oil pressure fluctuates a lot.

My first thought is to do a rod and crank bearing refresh.

I just bought this, its got a fresh oil change by the previous owner, as well as a fresh valve cover gasket.. thats weeping. I have a feeling its hiding some nasties.

Any suggestions?

cruiser54

What brand of oil filter?

Have you shined a light into the oil fill hole to assess the sludge buildup?

Bugout4x4

Can't tell anything from the video. Did you link to the wrong one? To hear what it sounds like in the engine compartment is what we would need.

Hotwire

I will grab the brand of filter tonight, the oil looked pretty clean, as it was a fresh change. No particulate in it, from what I could see. The valve cover has to come off so I can fix the gasket properly anyways, so I will find out more then.

As for how it runs, that is the right video, Im demonstrating how the idle is very smooth, the oil pressure is steady and within a good range as well. The doors and hood are open, The fact that you can't hear any noise is a bit of testament to how smooth and well the engine is running at that point. But like you suggest, I will take a video of the engine bay while its running cool, then again when its warm as well as the cluster then too.

Bugout4X4... Im an active Soldier myself, 421 Weapon Tech.

Bugout4x4

Welcome soldier! Thank you for your service! I grew up in military family and was never "officially" in the armed service. My own military experience comes from working for a private defense contractor during a past operation.

Hotwire

So, the oil filter is a white filter with the word Carlisle on it in red.... Some junk store band I'm sure. So who knows what oil is in it. If its even the right weight or not.

looking into the filler cap the rockers all look good fairly clean not all gummed up. I will know more soon, as I will be re-doing the valve cover gasket... That was poorly done. It leaks and has red "gasket glue" as the previous owner called it, all over the place.

I will also be pulling the oil pan, and 2 main caps and 2 rod caps to check the bearings. And see if there are anybsigns of damage... It may just as well be a chance to replace them all anyways. Oil pump gasket too.

Its strange... Every day im working on the XJ, fixing rotted vacuum lines or CCV or grounding cables, power cables, what ever... I start and run it. And it keeps running longer and longer without making the noise.

its also gonna get new plugs cap and rotor to boot.

cruiser54

Don't pull the pan just yet. A worn rod or main bearing never improves. It only gets worse.

Try this first. Change oil and filter. Use Wix filter and Shell Rotella T4. Only 5 quarts of T4 though, with a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil.

NGK ZFR5N plugs. cap and rotor with brass terminals. Change the plug wires also.

Hotwire

15w40 ? That's all that is local

cruiser54

go for it.

Hotwire

Last night :
- Changed oil (Rotella T4 15w40)
- Changed Filter (Wix Filter)
- Replaced Valve Cover gasket ( Original was new, but mangled when installed. Cover was clean on inside, the lifters and head were covered in black carbon / almost sand like shmoo)
- Replaced Cap (Original was all carboned up and burnt on inside terminals)
- Replaced Rotor (Original was same as cap)
- Replaced Wires
- Replaced Plugs (NGK ZFR5N, Gapped to .035, Originals were wrong, SOO wrong. about 1/4" shorter, burnt, wildly varied in gap)

After start up, Oil pressure shot up to the 3 line (straight up) on the guage, no knock or rattle. Once the temp raised to normal operating temp, the oil pressure was steady at roughly half way between the 2nd line and the 3 line. It sat and idled for roughly an hour. Temp stayed steady, The pressure had lowered, the needle was now resting on the 2nd line, but it was not fluctuating and there was no rattle in the engine, lugging, or any of the trouble I was having before.

There is a bit of a tick coming from the bell housing, noticeably slower then the RPM of the engine, and only audible from the side of the veh. in the engine bay there is no noise. EVEN after idling for an hour, and not having an electric fan (I looked for the plug and the sensor.. they don't exist. There is a plastic plug in the new rad where the sensor would be). On hot restart, there is a small rattle, does not sound like the engine, I suspect flex plate bolts, and engine / cross member mounts.

I will trace down the existing noise, and change out the mounts before I give this a real road test.

An electric fan, and new U-joins all around are the next project. I found an 8.25 rear end as well.

I will be posting a video shortly.

Hotwire

https://youtu.be/5ZZnCcSeXj8

Here is the video.

cruiser54

I'm impressed with what you've done.

Check to see if your flexplate to torque converter bolts have loosened.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f53/f...-more-2065857/

Hotwire

Thank you,

Last night, I pulled down the cover, and checked all the TC to Flex plate bolts, all were tight tight. I did find, that the trans mount, and both motor mounts are completely shot.

So the search continues, I did how ever find a plug up by the firewall, near the MAP sensor, that was not plugged in and was badly wrapped in electrical tape. Im having a long crank issue, and its running rich. So.. tonight I will test the MAP sensor, and O2 Sensor.. If there is one still. As I have a feeling that taped off plug may be for a deleted O2 Sensor.

cruiser54

3 hole plug with 2 wires in it?

Hotwire

I believe so, but I will take a photo of it tonight.