jeep warranty question
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
jeep warranty question
My Mom's 06 grand cherokee has developed a crazy ticking under the pass side. valve cover. Its crazy loud it speeds up with revving. My question is will they take into consideration that it has 22k mi. on it? She is the original owner and her dealership has closed. I can't find a real answer on the net to what has probably failed. The thing let go when I was driving it **** I feel like I need to fix it.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
update
The jeep is 5 months out of warranty with only 22134mi. I was charged $135 for a diagnostic fee to say my pass. side head needs to be replaced due to a dropped rocker due to a bent valve. They said it needs $1800 worth of work to "fix" the trouble and "hopefully" the piston is not damaged. They said the best fix is a new engine with a 7 year 70k mi. warranty. I think the guy said like 5500 out the door. (With a straight face) He mumbled something about tax return time? They told me I could call the chrysler customer care number and complain. I called and they said their hands were tied. The dealership said they would give a me blue book trade in even with the knock cause of the low miles (how generous) You wonder why dodge is in the crapper. I would really just like a answer. Why does a engine with 22k mi. regular oil changes and a 63yr. old lady driver need a new engine?
#7
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
You didn't say what motor it is. V6, 4.7L V8, or Hemi.
I don't know anything about the V6, but I've owned a 4.7 and a pair of 5.7's.
The 4.7L is a good motor, but is bar none, the hardest engine I've ever owned on oil. It didn't use any and had no mechanical problems, but it would ruin oil faster than anything I've ever owned. Even running Amsoil ASL 5W-30, I had to test it and usually changed it at about 12k rather than 25k.
The 5.7L in my 2004 Ram was great. Super easy on oil. It did NOT, however have the cylinder drop process on it.
The 5.7 in my 2006 Durango DOES have the cylinder drop process and requires 5W20 for it to work. Other weights of oil can make a mechanical mess of that system.
And having broken a few valve springs in my day, I've never damaged a head by dropping a valve unless the valve stem broke and the valve head destroyed the cylinder.
I don't know anything about the V6, but I've owned a 4.7 and a pair of 5.7's.
The 4.7L is a good motor, but is bar none, the hardest engine I've ever owned on oil. It didn't use any and had no mechanical problems, but it would ruin oil faster than anything I've ever owned. Even running Amsoil ASL 5W-30, I had to test it and usually changed it at about 12k rather than 25k.
The 5.7L in my 2004 Ram was great. Super easy on oil. It did NOT, however have the cylinder drop process on it.
The 5.7 in my 2006 Durango DOES have the cylinder drop process and requires 5W20 for it to work. Other weights of oil can make a mechanical mess of that system.
And having broken a few valve springs in my day, I've never damaged a head by dropping a valve unless the valve stem broke and the valve head destroyed the cylinder.
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#8
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
its a 3.7, I did a google search and its real common for a rocker to fall out. I guess the 3.7 is similar to the 4.7 as far as head design and internals they say its a 4.7 missing two cylinders. I talked to chrysler again this morning and the won't even take a % of the repair bill. I plan I doing this repair myself, at a nice and slow pace so I don't screw something up. I have stroked my 4.0 and have built a ton of small block ford motors, so I need to do my first over head cam motor I guess.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
its a 3.7, I did a google search and its real common for a rocker to fall out. I guess the 3.7 is similar to the 4.7 as far as head design and internals they say its a 4.7 missing two cylinders. I talked to chrysler again this morning and the won't even take a % of the repair bill. I plan I doing this repair myself, at a nice and slow pace so I don't screw something up. I have stroked my 4.0 and have built a ton of small block ford motors, so I need to do my first over head cam motor I guess.
It really shouldn't be too bad. If the valve only tapped the piston and bent the stem, there may not be much damage to deal with other than replacing the valve, spring set and rocker.
Here's hoping it's easier than the dealer made it sound.
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Year: 1994
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I pulled the pass. valve cover tonight, to my amazement the exhaust spring was broken on the middle cylinder. I wonder if I can pressurize the cylinder and swap the spring w/o pulling the head? I hope the overhead cam will not be in the way. I feel like pulling the head anyway to make sure the valve didn't get smacked. The down side is that I would need to pull the front cover off to get the chain out. Any idea's?
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Year: 1997
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If the spring broke, the valve is most likely bent. If you're lucky, it didn't do anything major to the piston or valve guide & seat and you can get a single valve and spring set and be on your way.
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