smeltmaster1

so i have a 97 sport, i went out today and i was pulling away from the atm and it just shut off on me and it would crank but wouldnt start with the drive side window buttons makeing a buzzing noise and my driveside window wouldn't go up. so i was dragged home bc i was less then a half a mile away from my house. then we check the fuel rail and no fuel cranking or just turning the key. then we push it to turn it around to get it in the garage and then i try and start it and it started.

so my stepdad says there is a short in the system some where but i don't know where to start

i will give you a little back round on my jeep. the alt is making some weird noises like grinding and winning. i have a domestic code that says it could ether be the oxygen sensor after cat or the fuel pressure regulator. i also poor man prime it about 3 times for it to start all the time or it will just crank, it was alot worse before i did a tune up.

i have had this happen one time before but i reset the battery and it started.

so i am really confused on this i plan on replacing the alt but i could replace my fuel pump bc i will be working on the rear in a couple weeks or so.

i just want to know if anyone has had this problem before and what they did thanks

smeltmaster1

anyone? i would like to know asap

smeltmaster1

if anyone is reading this do you think it could be a problem with the voltage regulator with it ether grounding out or just not sending enough voltage and then it is shutting off

xj_maniac_newb

Next time you post a question about tech, name it something that has to do with your problem. That will make more people want to look at your thread as a tech question, instead of a misplaced OT thread. Just saying..

And how exactly did you "reset the battery".

smeltmaster1

too long of a name so i gave it something catchy. well when i reset the battery or computer or whatever you want to call it i disconnected the positive and negative for a couple mins and then put it back on but that is done and over i need to know about this other crap

xj_maniac_newb

Well if you werent getting fuel the first time and its throwing a fuel pressure regulator code, i would be checking out the regulator. Are you sure it wasnt getting fuel? Have you checked the fuel pressure at the rail? Check out your CPS wires. If theyre close to your exhaust at all the wire covers will melt and act like a failed CPS (all crank, no start) until they cool back down.

smeltmaster1

i checked the fuel on the rail and nothing while turning it on and off or while trying to start it. i could check the cps but would that cause it to shut off out of nowhere?

xj_maniac_newb

Yes.

Will Doe

Check the easy stuff first, fuses and such. Listen for fuel pump when you turn the key to run ( poor man prime). Check for spark ect. Process of elimination. Electrical, mechanical, fuel, you mean what I know¿ keep us posted.

smeltmaster1

so my stepdad talked to a mechanic friend today that saw us dragging the jeep down the street and asked him what could be the problem. he said since the window wouldn't go up and there was no fuel that they are sharing a ground and i need to separate them and bring the fuel pump into the inside of the cab. well i like mud and water so he said get most of the main grounds in a dry place.

i think this sounds more like what my problem is bc i just did a full tune up changed most fluids and my battery is brand new about 4 months or so and i think my doors may have a broken ground bc i take them on and off during the summer. so i am gonna start with that i will try and chase the wires and see were it ground to tomorrow i have one good day of weather here is chicago as long as i am not at work

fuel pump and alternator will be soon

xj_maniac_newb

Do NOT move your fuel pump into the inside of the cab. That makes no sense whatsoever, the fuel pump and windows in no way share the same ground. Also, the fuel pump on our cherokees is mounted into the tank. If you're going to check grounds check the ground off the negative terminal that runs over to the side of then engine bay under the engine prop, then check the ground on the back of the engine that runs up beside the map sensor. The back engine ground is back about being very corroded and causing problems.

And dont just replace your alternator, autozone/advanced auto/oreillys/napa whatever will usually test them for free. Also, test the connection on the fuel pump and make sure its getting a good connection. Clean the terminals and throw some dielectric grease on it.

smeltmaster1

not the whole fuel pump just the ground would be moved to inside the cab bc of water and mud getting it dirty. my alt is getting and upgrade 220 amp bc of winch and lights and everything else. i getting the fuel pump replaced bc i want to see if that is my problem with starting. and i have to drop my tank skid anyways to put on my new shackle relocation boxes.

i just want to know if there is any grounds i should move at all to make sure it would't short out and i think the fuel pump is the only thing i didn't die ele grease lol

xj_maniac_newb

Well check the connection and dielectric grease it before you buy anything. And moving the ground inside the cab because it'll get dirty is stupid. As long as you have a good and tight metal to metal connection you can throw as much mud, water, and crud at it you wont and it wont give you problems.

And grounds will not short out on the body, hot wires will short out on the body/ground wires. Check the wires on the fuel pump as well to make sure they're not rubbed raw anywhere.

And i really dont see the need for that big of an alternator.. but remember you'll need to replace all the lead wiring with at least 2 gauge and replace the fuseable link as well.

Will Doe

Long cranking issue could be a leaky check valve in the pressure regulator or fuel pump. If your fuel pump has bad/no ground you won't hear it running during the poor mans prime. Sometimes a nice little thump on the fuel tank with a dead blow or wood( anything that won't dent it) will bring a dying fuel pump back to life temporarily.

salad

Okay dude first off if you want instant answers take it to a garage with an on-call technician. Free help on the Internet comes when it comes. Like xj_maniac_newb pointed out your thread title isn't helping. Although if you'd like to pay an hourly rate I'm sure there are people on here who would jump at the opportunity.

If your OBD2 Jeep threw DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES you'll need to pass them on. Randomly guessing at **** is a great way to spend thousands of dollars and not fix problems.

G302 is indeed shared by the fuel pump and power window systems, at least on the 1999 model. It's inside the cargo area behind the spare tire mount. Check it and make sure it's clean. They also share a splice in the same area. You'll need to scrub everything until shiny with a brass wire brush and sandpaper and clean it off with some electrical contact cleaner. If you like playing in mud and water then I strongly recommend you refresh all electrical connections in the entire vehicle, by sanding/brushing them, using contact cleaner, and applying an electrical grease like NOALOX or OX-GARD to the pins and mating surfaces. These compounds conduct electricity and prevent corrosion. They can even help restore function to corroded connectors. Dielectric grease is an insulator and is only helpful when applied near a connector, such as on the shroud of the male end, where it acts like caulking.