Windowlicker

Sorry if this is a dumb question.

96 Cherokee Sport. The ignition key "halo" courtesy light stays on all the time, and runs the battery flat if I leave it a few days. Not sure what the problem is, possibly the time delay unit is shorting out? All of the other courtesy lights work as they should.

I figured the easiest thing would be to remove the bulb, but I can't work out how. Do I really have to remove the steering wheel and the ignition key cylinder? Is there an easier solution? I couldn't find the wire that feeds the light on my wiring diagram either. Anyone know what color it is?

Thanks for any advice!
Adam

Windowlicker

I'll answer my own question - in case anyone finds this while searching. You don't have to remove the steering wheel.

• Unscrew the 3 x T15 Torx screws on the underside of the steering column cover (one exposed, and 2 deeply recessed either side).
• Remove the tilt column lever by unscrewing it.
• Remove the 2 halves of the steering column cover.
• You will see the bulb holder above the ignition lock cylinder. Carefully twist the bulb holder and remove the bulb.
• Refit in reverse order.

Hope that helps someone!

ClaytonCherokee

I'm having the same problem with that light staying on, I have a 96 xj Sport as well, I can't find it on any wiring diagram either, and I thought it may have been a bad door switch or something but no luck there yet. I'd like to keep the light in if i could and useable.

e46fanatic

Did anyone find a solution to this besides removing the bulb?

ClaytonCherokee

Mine ended up staying on until I fixed the switch in the tailgate lock mechanism. I had to open the back door, undo a couple screws and pull the hole latching mechanism out to find out it was rusted and the switch had broken off. Found a decent one in the junkyard for about $5

StealthyMcStealth

Noticed my ignition halo was on tonight on my ZJ. Didn't have time to mess with the cause and fix but luckily I have all the fuse numbers and what they go to saved on my phone so I knew if I pull fuse 5 all the interior lights won't work. Which is fine by me, I never use them anyway. I carry three flashlights at all times and more in the Jeep, so I have light when needed.

ALRUI

I've got a question, what size bulb is the "ignition halo" bulb?

Thanks!

dave1123

It must be a problem so much so that my 2000 doesn't have one. I thought only Grands had them.

ALRUI

This is on a 1996 "SE" and its not a problem in this case my son wants to put an LED bulb in place of what I discovered is a #37 bulb.

jordan96xj

Disconnecting the halo is pretty easy. You will need to remove the steering column shroud, and the halo ring/lamp is somewhat integrated with the ignition switch. It has a small connector that can be disconnected. However, this may or may not solve the problem of killing the battery. Because that halo is fed by a capacitor that stores electricity like a short-lived battery. That capacitor is likely being constantly energized, and will probably continue to drain the battery, even when the halo light is disconnected.

My guess is that you have a hatch sensor that thinks the rear hatch is always open, but that the rear cargo area dome light is either manually switched to OFF or the bulb is burned out.

dave1123

Because I had a problem with my XJ due to rusted rear wheel wells and a parasitic battery drain, I would suggest you pull the cargo area plastic side panels and check for water entry and corroded electrical connectors in that area. My trailer wiring harness shorted and went up in smoke! After fixing that, the other side caught fire! I now have no connectors in the rear, just butt splices.This is the area I'm talking about;

bpm123

There are a lot of different suggestions on this thread having to do with grounding. Grounding is probably part of the solution but is not specific enough. Here is what I did to fix the issue and what I can replicate, meaning just because there was a full moon out the night I fixed it doe s not mean it is part of the solution.

See other post for disassembly to you get to where you can access the key switch and lock cylinder.
1. Loosen the torx screws that hold the key lock assembly with all the electrical still attached.
2. reposition and see if that solves the issue
3. If the above does not adjust tighten or loosen the locking screw on the side of the cylinder that holds the metal bracket in place - do not tighten so much that you can rotate the key all the way. This screw is not meant to be tightened down; it needs to be about 1/4" from being tightened down.

Most likely the cause of this is the cylinder on your lock cylinder has cracked or started to wear. If you do replace the cylinder ensure you can get a rekeyable cylinder and keep the old cylinder to make that process easier and makes it a simple thing to do if you want to do it yourself. If you want multiple keys- one for ignition and one for door locks then do not worry about it ... but I think it is always better to have more than one key.

Ok, hope this helps.

Thomas royal

Hey guys, this thread has been very helpful. But, i have a question, i took the plastic plannel off on the back door of my 96 XJ, and took off the latch, but there was nothing attached to the latch. So i was wondering if there is supposed to be something attached to the latching mechanism i took off, like wire or smt. please help, ive been trying to trace this problem for SO long.
thanks!
Tommy