I am getting sick of jeeps already.
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: KC KS
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
I am getting sick of jeeps already.
I bought new wheel cylinders for my 89 replaced them month and half ago I bled them but now for SOME REASON they need to be bled again (I did it correctly first time had no air bubbles in the lines) now it seems like the :wants to use sailor mouth: the bleeder valve has seized and I cannot open it... This is pissing me off I put wd40 on it and seems like I will have to replace the wheel cylinders again! I seriously am sick of jeeps now.
Is this a known issue for these to seize so easily?
Is this a known issue for these to seize so easily?
#2
i dont think its a jeep issue, I think its a you cranked the **** out of it when you tightened it up issue, as far needing to be blead again, you either didnt do it right or you have a leak somewhere.
#4
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Northfield MN
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2 v8
I agree with the over tightening, as far as wd40 goes don't use it. Get yourself a can of PB blast hit them with that and lightly tap the tops of the bleeders with your wrench, put the wrench on the bleeder and hit that with a hammer. Shocking them out has a lesser chance of snapping them than one pull with a lot of force. Works good for overtightened items and also rusted items, no matter if it's a bleeder or a bolt.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I agree with the over tightening, as far as wd40 goes don't use it. Get yourself a can of PB blast hit them with that and lightly tap the tops of the bleeders with your wrench, put the wrench on the bleeder and hit that with a hammer. Shocking them out has a lesser chance of snapping them than one pull with a lot of force. Works good for overtightened items and also rusted items, no matter if it's a bleeder or a bolt.
Good advice.
#6
CF Veteran
Mixture of 50/50 acetone and Automatic tranny Fluid wil work better than PB.
IF they need to be bled again, I would be looking at the master cylinder being bad. Wheel cylinders typically leak fluid when they're bad.
You can replace the master cylinder and bled the line at the master cylinder.
Bench bleed it and then once on the heep you can pump it up and then crack the line open at the master cylinder and bleed the air there.
IF they need to be bled again, I would be looking at the master cylinder being bad. Wheel cylinders typically leak fluid when they're bad.
You can replace the master cylinder and bled the line at the master cylinder.
Bench bleed it and then once on the heep you can pump it up and then crack the line open at the master cylinder and bleed the air there.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Clover, S.C.
Posts: 620
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Bleeder screws can usually be removed if they snap off.
You can use an ordinary "Easy-out" but only if the bleeder breaks off.
Sometimes you can use a small ball peen hammer to tap the area of the wheel cylinder around where the bleeder screw goes in. Be careful not to hit the screw itself though.
You can use an ordinary "Easy-out" but only if the bleeder breaks off.
Sometimes you can use a small ball peen hammer to tap the area of the wheel cylinder around where the bleeder screw goes in. Be careful not to hit the screw itself though.
Trending Topics
#9
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Concho,AZ
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
On the master cyl issue clamp off the lines going to each wheel pump up the brakes and hold down the pedal if the pedal bleeds down with the lines clamped off that will tell you you have a bad master cyl. If it doesnt then look back towards the wheel cyls.Remember you can get brandnew defective parts not un heard of.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: KC KS
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
I think there is a leak but then again the brake fluid is at the top idk maybe there was some air bubbles I missed. I know I did not over tighten it Also what is the exact size for these? 10 is to big and 9 is to small (box wrench)
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Syracuse IN
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#15
Honorary Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
11 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
just my .02 about your title.
you also have a vehicle that is 21 years old.
There is going to be problems with it no matter what the mileage.
The rotors and brakes sound like a leak and over tightening.
A torque wrench for foot lbs does wonders on suspension components, and an inch pound torque wrench does wonders when installing little stuff.
I am a BIG believer in proper torque, and retorque at selected intervals....
you also have a vehicle that is 21 years old.
There is going to be problems with it no matter what the mileage.
The rotors and brakes sound like a leak and over tightening.
A torque wrench for foot lbs does wonders on suspension components, and an inch pound torque wrench does wonders when installing little stuff.
I am a BIG believer in proper torque, and retorque at selected intervals....