How many volts are applied to a fuel injector?
#1
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How many volts are applied to a fuel injector?
I want to test my fuel injectors, and I figured an easy way to do this is to remove the rail and injectors from the intake while leaving the fuel supply attached.. then turn the key to pressurize the system and then "turn on" the injectors to watch them spray.. the only problem is, I don't know how many volts are applied to our injectors at runtime..
This would be an easy way to check for dirty/clogged injectors, anyone know the voltage to apply to turn them on without brning them?
This would be an easy way to check for dirty/clogged injectors, anyone know the voltage to apply to turn them on without brning them?
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah, that's not going to work because you have to cycle them on to get a flow through them.
I thought this was Cherokee Technical discussion?
Maybe I should ask about a lift
I thought this was Cherokee Technical discussion?
Maybe I should ask about a lift
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
thanks. that's what I was looking for, 12v it is..
And I am pretty sure I have some majo FI clog.. I attached a fuel pressure gauge to my fuel rail yesterday and a whole mess of yellow goo came out of it. So I plan on taking off the rail, and energixing each injector to test for spray.
And I am pretty sure I have some majo FI clog.. I attached a fuel pressure gauge to my fuel rail yesterday and a whole mess of yellow goo came out of it. So I plan on taking off the rail, and energixing each injector to test for spray.
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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#9
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
wow... OK, so I took off the fuel rail, and I rigged up 2 wires, one wire I put on the pos battery terminal, and I put a butt connector crimped to the other side, leaving a shielded end so I didn't arc on anything. The other wire was a test light just clamped to a screw on the rad support.
I laid the fuel rail in a box so I didn't get fuel everywhere, and I turned the key to pressurize the system to 145 psi
I put the hot lead (with the butt connector shield) on one progn, and then I used the point of the test light on the other prong.. I got streams of fuel, no atomization, and weak streams at that, like they were pissing into the box..
Right now I got them all soaking in a tub of lucas fuel injector cleaner, I hope it help some, but I know I will need to get new injectors or sendthese in for servicing.
I laid the fuel rail in a box so I didn't get fuel everywhere, and I turned the key to pressurize the system to 145 psi
I put the hot lead (with the butt connector shield) on one progn, and then I used the point of the test light on the other prong.. I got streams of fuel, no atomization, and weak streams at that, like they were pissing into the box..
Right now I got them all soaking in a tub of lucas fuel injector cleaner, I hope it help some, but I know I will need to get new injectors or sendthese in for servicing.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Definitely don't pay to have them serviced. For what they charge you, you can get refurbished injectors. Here's a link to a great video on how to clean your own injectors
. Also, you can get a "rebuild" kit off ebay for under $20.I just scored this set for $18 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...T#ht_500wt_975 . I'm sure the same seller will post another one considering after the last set he sold, he put another one up for auction. You'll probably pay $20 per injector for servicing and you can rebuild your own in under an hour.
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Year: 1988
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That would test the injectors proper.
Test the firing circuit using a "noid light" - available at well-stocked parts houses for a few bucks. Plug the light in in place of the injector, either with the engine running or being cranked, and watch for the lamp to flash.
If you do it with the engine running, expect it to act like it's got a "dead hole" (it will - until you plug the injector back in...) but you'll still see firing pulses for the injector.
Don't use a meter to test this - you won't get an accurate reading. You can use an oscilloscope to check the waveform (in most cases, it should be a square wave,) but that's probably more in-depth than you'd care to get.
Test the firing circuit using a "noid light" - available at well-stocked parts houses for a few bucks. Plug the light in in place of the injector, either with the engine running or being cranked, and watch for the lamp to flash.
If you do it with the engine running, expect it to act like it's got a "dead hole" (it will - until you plug the injector back in...) but you'll still see firing pulses for the injector.
Don't use a meter to test this - you won't get an accurate reading. You can use an oscilloscope to check the waveform (in most cases, it should be a square wave,) but that's probably more in-depth than you'd care to get.
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
OK, next step is the noid light.. maybe one of them is not getting juice, I know that ALL of the injectors read 12.0 ohms, so they are good..
I am about to give up and drop her off at the dealer but I am afraid about how much it might cost to find some simple problem...
I am a bit lightheaded from the carb cleaner and tired too.. I am beat, i am so sick of trying to find this rough idle.. maybe I just have some stupid little problem like a bad cap or something, but I dont think so because if I pull #1 plug it runs even worse.. I rarely give in on problems but I am about to on this...
I am about to give up and drop her off at the dealer but I am afraid about how much it might cost to find some simple problem...
I am a bit lightheaded from the carb cleaner and tired too.. I am beat, i am so sick of trying to find this rough idle.. maybe I just have some stupid little problem like a bad cap or something, but I dont think so because if I pull #1 plug it runs even worse.. I rarely give in on problems but I am about to on this...
#14