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How do I prevent the rear upper shock bolts from breaking?
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
You don't.
Just kidding.
Start PB Blasting them.
Not just from underneath on the outside.
Look at the underside of your Jeep.
See those 2 open kinda kidney shaped holes?
Well you can actually get at the nut that is tack welded at the top from in there.
So PB Blast in those two holes too.
Little heat when the time comes could help also.
Now if you do bust them.
You could try to drill out the busted bolt.
Hopefully save the threads and buy a new bolt.
Or retap them if you have too.
No idea what size it is though. My parts '91 to '96 parts catalog does not give the specs.
In my '97 and up ones it is a Flange Head .312-x18x.875.
But the part number for the '97 and up is different then the '96 and down.
Can't say one way or the other if the specs are the same so.....
You could whack at it or hit it with an air hammer to knock it out and use this.
There are cheaper versions on Amazon.
Or you could just fish a bolt and washer through that kidney shaped hole with some mechanics wire.
And nut from the out side.
Oh and sometimes the lower shock mount likes to bust too.
So PB Blast that too.
You don't.
Just kidding.
Start PB Blasting them.
Not just from underneath on the outside.
Look at the underside of your Jeep.
See those 2 open kinda kidney shaped holes?
Well you can actually get at the nut that is tack welded at the top from in there.
So PB Blast in those two holes too.
Little heat when the time comes could help also.
Now if you do bust them.
You could try to drill out the busted bolt.
Hopefully save the threads and buy a new bolt.
Or retap them if you have too.
No idea what size it is though. My parts '91 to '96 parts catalog does not give the specs.
In my '97 and up ones it is a Flange Head .312-x18x.875.
But the part number for the '97 and up is different then the '96 and down.
Can't say one way or the other if the specs are the same so.....
You could whack at it or hit it with an air hammer to knock it out and use this.
There are cheaper versions on Amazon.
Or you could just fish a bolt and washer through that kidney shaped hole with some mechanics wire.
And nut from the out side.
Oh and sometimes the lower shock mount likes to bust too.
So PB Blast that too.
Hey I got the 2 out on the driver's side without a problem when I did mine. LOL.
On the passenger side I was not so fortunate.
I have read here and there that people have pulled it off. MLOL.
Oh and for the few days that you are PB Blasting them before you do it give it a little love tap with a hammer.
Might loosen up some of the crud in there and let the PB Blaster get in there better to do its thing.
And when taking them out loosen a little, tighten a little, loosen a little, tighten a little, well you get the idea.
And pray that you don't hear the "tink".
Oh and by the way I just use PB Blaster as a generic term for penetrating oil.
Google Kroil. That is supposed to be some top notch stuff. With a price tag to match.
And Google making your own. 1 to 1 ratio of tranny fluid and acetone.
Lot of people swear by that. Been meaning to try it myself.
Some time in penetrating oil and taking your time keeps you out of the woods most of the times. You might be just fine if you're not living in a rust promoting climate.
Don't forget that posts and forum threads on issues are similar to Google reviews; people review because of complaints and problems, negative reviews tend to affect you more, fast majority is ok but you won't hear about it.
Fast majority have nil issues with them.
Just take your time and only have to cross problem-bridges when you actually get there.
I'm doing mine this Wednesday once my shocks arrive, hopefully we both have good luck.. I did order the bar pin flag nut thing from Amazon though, just incase.. Since they have free returns, I'll just return it if everything goes smooth.
Oh and for the few days that you are PB Blasting them before you do it give it a little love tap with a hammer.
Might loosen up some of the crud in there and let the PB Blaster get in there better to do its thing.
And when taking them out loosen a little, tighten a little, loosen a little, tighten a little, well you get the idea.
And pray that you don't hear the "tink".
Oh and by the way I just use PB Blaster as a generic term for penetrating oil.
Google Kroil. That is supposed to be some top notch stuff. With a price tag to match.
And Google making your own. 1 to 1 ratio of tranny fluid and acetone.
Lot of people swear by that. Been meaning to try it myself.
Ralph77 is right about working it back and forth. After you soak them with some type of penetrating oil, when you start taking them out, after you get a few turns, hit them again with penetrating oil and try tightening them up to work some of that penetrating oil back into the threads. My dad has taught me this and it has saved me many a broken bolt.
Remember, a 30 minute job can become an entire day project with just one broken bolt.
I'm getting ready to do mine. I'll start by dousing the bolts with PB Blaster over a few days. Since I live in SoCal, there's not any rust to speak of, just some light surface rust. I did change them a while ago (like 10 years) and they came out fairly easily.
3 of my 4 bolts broke, even after hitting them with PB Blaster for 4 days. I just punched them out with an air hammer (regular hammer and chisel should work) and fished new bolts through from the top, using nuts on the bottom instead. Piece of cake(ish).
At least 2 of mine, if not 3 broke when I did mine and I used PB blaster for quite some time on mine. I had the Rough Country brackets ready, and in all honesty I would just remove (and probably break) the bolts and just deal with drilling or hammering the nuts out. It really is not as bad and you may think.
How do I prevent the rear upper shock bolts from breaking?
