Handed a non runner
#1
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Handed a non runner
Hey everyone I’m new to the forum, and 90% new to the Jeep world(owned an 85 Cherokee chief, 11ish years ago) so last weekend my woman’s landlord told me if I could fix the Cherokee sport out front I could have it. Here’s my issue the thing hasn’t ran in 3 years, hasn’t really been driven in 5 or 6 and when she parked it, it had death wobble. Sooo my question is aside from rodents getting into the wiring what should I get to 1st? I was told change all fluids before trying to start it, and a buddy was worried that the gaskets could be dried up and cracked. I’m kinda at a loss at what I should do 1st.
Thanks
edit: it’s a 95 Cherokee sport 4.0L
Thanks
edit: it’s a 95 Cherokee sport 4.0L
Last edited by Fatamos33; 02-27-2019 at 08:05 AM.
#2
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Do you see evidence of rodents? I would check the oil and coolant to see if they are at a safe level then start it up.
If you are working on a mystery machine and can't figure out why it won't start dont add variables to it by changing parts out. Find an issue confirm the issue fix the issue and continue toward the goal.
If you are working on a mystery machine and can't figure out why it won't start dont add variables to it by changing parts out. Find an issue confirm the issue fix the issue and continue toward the goal.
#3
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I'd check the fluids for level and condition and probably just change the oil and filter off the bat.
Then I'd probably follow something like the procedure in this guide: http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...rod/prd275.htm mainly out of curiosity.
But frankly, these are tough old motors and that could just be overkill.
Then I'd probably follow something like the procedure in this guide: http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/...rod/prd275.htm mainly out of curiosity.
But frankly, these are tough old motors and that could just be overkill.
#4
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Year: 1989
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0
Probably just needs a battery. I picked up a free Grand one time that sat for 5 years, that the owner claimed it had a bad transmission and was using it as a storage shed. I dropped a battery in, started it up and drove it home. Didn't even need to put gas in it. I did an oil change, a brake job since it had a sticking caliper, and pulled out and pressure washed the moldy interior carpeting. It ran great until I sold it a few months later.
Plenty of info out there on Death Wobble. Basically you just need to get under there and look at and feel everything while someone cranks the steering wheel back-n-forth. It doesn't take much play in a tie-rod or track bar. Pay attention to the tie rod ends and the upper and lower parts of the track bar. A bad steering damper and poor alignment can contribute to the instability. Jack the front up and see how bad the ball joints are too.
Plenty of info out there on Death Wobble. Basically you just need to get under there and look at and feel everything while someone cranks the steering wheel back-n-forth. It doesn't take much play in a tie-rod or track bar. Pay attention to the tie rod ends and the upper and lower parts of the track bar. A bad steering damper and poor alignment can contribute to the instability. Jack the front up and see how bad the ball joints are too.
#5
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Agree with the others --
1 - Get it started up and at least driving around the lawn/driveway.
2 - Deal with the DW. DW won't happen at "around the block" driving speeds, so I wouldn't even think about it until you've got it up and running and moving. No good worrying about DW if the motor's seized.
1 - Get it started up and at least driving around the lawn/driveway.
2 - Deal with the DW. DW won't happen at "around the block" driving speeds, so I wouldn't even think about it until you've got it up and running and moving. No good worrying about DW if the motor's seized.
#6
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L L6 PowerTech (stock)
If you are just testing for start, then I would not change the oil and filter yet. On older Jeep's I like to take out each spark plugs and pour just a few drops of fresh gasoline straight into the combustion Chambers.
If you've got spark and air without a major leak, then that will turn the engine over. It helps to start something that has been sitting and let's you know that you have decent to good compression in the even that you have a fuel related problem that otherwise would keep the engine from starting.
If you've got spark and air without a major leak, then that will turn the engine over. It helps to start something that has been sitting and let's you know that you have decent to good compression in the even that you have a fuel related problem that otherwise would keep the engine from starting.
Last edited by gat; 02-27-2019 at 12:57 PM.
#7
Senior Member
If it has not been run much for 5 years in addition to oil and filter change I would also drain as much gas out of the tank as possible and dispose of that in an enviromentally safe way. Depending on the climate where it has set the gas likely has water and possibly a moldllike substance in it.
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#8
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Before you spend much at all on it check if a clean title is available. No point in putting work into it until the ownership and title situation is clear. Get clean ownership in your name, then work on it. Worse case is you sell it for parts/scrap.
#9
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
IN your shoes I'd check the oil and coolant then see what the gas gauge says. Hopefully it's low and adding 5 gals will dilute the older fuel, then give her a try! You can change oil/filter and flush the cooling system later.
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