CCKen

Does your horn work?

Does your cruise control work?

Do you ever see the Airbag light stay on longer than 8 seconds when turning the key to RUN, before starting the engine? Do you ever see an intermittant Airbag light on when the engine is runnng.

Does turning the steering wheel from stop to stop have any affect?

Clockspring questions.

Grasshoppa

Will check after work. Thanks

Grasshoppa

The numbers are 534af after the Chrysler p/n.

Grasshoppa

Horn works, cruise does not. Airbag light stays on for 10 secs once the key hits the on position. While its running I havent seen the airbag pop on. When the steering wheel is straight, it sits at 1100 rpms roughly. When cranked to the right it drops to 800 then all the way left its 900-1000 rpms.

CCKen

It may be a defective clocksping causing your issues.

It is not uncommon for the clockspring to fail in a manner that allows the horn relay control circuit to bleed near battery voltage though the cruise control circuit to other sensors' 5 volt reference voltage.

To find out if the TPS 5 volt reference voltage is being affected by a possible clockspring fault you'll need to test the TPS 5 volt supply.

You'll need a digtal voltmeter.

Unplug the TPS connector. Find the pin cavity for the Orange wire.

With the key to RUN, wihout starting the engine, probe the Orange wire pin cavity with the (+) meter probe and a good engine ground, or the battery negative terminal post, with the meter (-) probe. You should see 5 +/- .5 volts.

Turn the steering wheel from stop-to-stop like you did before and see if the voltage changes. If the voltahge increases the clockspring can be suspected as the bad guy. If the voltage stays at 5 +/- .5 volts throuhout the testing, something else is at fault.

If you do see an increase in reference voltage, you can remove the Horn Relay from the Junction Block which will eliminate the source of the stray voltage, and see if this fixes you symptoms. If so, a clockspring R&R is in your future.

Do these checks and get back.

Good luck.

Grasshoppa

Will do. Will this still happen even if I replaced the TPS? If it is the problem, how hard is it to replace?

CCKen

This is not pointing to the TPS as being bad, it's saying the reference voltage supplied to it by the PCM may be bad, as caused by the clockspring. This is speculation until proven one way or another.

Replacement of the clockspring must be accomplished using instructions. The factory service manual is the best but there are good tutorials on the forums that give step by step instructions.

Grasshoppa

Roger that. Ill look to get a voltmeter tomorrow. Also I know it seems like I skipped the reply, I didnt but I couldn't help but ask that at the ens you said remove the relay? Is this the same as the fuse to the relay?

Grasshoppa

So I can take the new one off and take it back to get the money? Lol I left all the new parts on thinking it would help one day but if its a different issue mine as well haha

CCKen

Keep the removed parts in a safe place. You'll need them sooner or later.

It's an XJ don't forget.

Grasshoppa

Did the test on the solid orange wire..stayed at 5.1 throughout the whole test...

Grasshoppa

Also, not sure if this is needed but I got all replacement parts at o'riellys.

Grasshoppa

Well I started it up and drove around the block..looks like maybe the high idle just went away..not sure if thats just a temporary thing or not. Still stutters bad while driving down the road when I accelerate and sometimes when not. Tried the steering wheel turn test and it doesnt seem to drop anymore when turned either. Also I pulled the fuse to the horn relay and still same symptoms

sharkbaitX37

Did you have any luck on your jeep? Because I'm having the same problem with my jeep. High Rpms in park and neutral and it shutters while accelerating. If you have tips if you fixed yours, is like to know. Thanks