antlers

More troubles. The heater fan in my 1994 XJ stopped working. A few questions. WHERE IS THE EXACT LOCATION OF THE HEATER FAN FUSE?!. And please don't tell me it's in the fuse block panel under the steering wheel. I have looked and looked for it. Nothing on that panel says it is there. My Haynes manul doesn't tell and I've looked and looked on line. I do not have an owners manual. Also - should the Heater/Air/Vent panel with the fan switch and control levers - should it light up when my lights are on? It is black. Some have said it could be a relay - and again - exactly what relay where? I've pulled all the fuses I can find and all the relays. I can't tell. They all look good. Sorry, but I'm lost. Thanks for any help.

xj_maniac_newb

the fuse is in the block check this, it may help https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/95-...se-panel-4373/

antlers

Hey! Thanks for the info - I got it fixed!!! Well, at least the high fan works and that's better than nothing.

TestPoint

Resolved this issue(s) today and would like to thank all that commented on this thread. Here is the schematic on the fan system:



The fuse was still intact but badly corroded including inside the plastic body. The contact tabs had been cleaned in this photo but were corroded also.



The next issue was the switch associated with the Heat Mode Selector Switch. The connector tabs were corroded and the plastic body was distorted indicating high resistance and current at this point. This device was the core of the problems as the internal slide was burned to the point of not conducting. The electrical switch part of this assembly is only available as a complete assembly for about $200. I would hesitate buying an used one for all the current issues of this obviously under engineered system.

The switch can be opened and cleaned, which I did with a Dremel wire brush. Cleaned the grease with brake cleaner and used silicone grease to put it back together.



The next contacts on the schematic is the Blower Switch. The connector here also was severely distorted this time too much to save. I cut the connector off and soldered individual spade connectors to the wires and cleaned the switch contacts WELL before reassembly. I also disassembled the switch and cleaned the contacts internally.



The resistor unit did not appear to be heat distorted at all and the resistances were of such small values that were beyond the effective range of my HF VOM.

With that everything worked but I am not sure for how long. Jeep should be ashamed of the design of this system. What I did today would have involved about $400 in parts and that or more in labor.