Having a few problems. I NEED HELP!!!
 

Alright, i have a 89 Jeep Cherokee, 4x4, 5 -speed with a 5 Inch lift...

I just drove it down to Florida to visit family. As i was driving down it srated getting warm. But i just replaced the water pump and thermostat about a month ago. so it shouldnt be any of those.

My other problem is when i pushed the clutch all the way in to slow down to get off at exit ramps the jeep is shutting off. my stepdad thinks it might be a bad vacuum line.

So if you have any suggestions on what it might be please post it. i dont want to drive back to Georgia with these problems. its about a 700 mile trip...

Thanks any help,
Johnny.

:help::help::help:

have you back flushed the radiator

the stalling could be the IAC or TPS even the MAP sensor

no i was in a hurry when i replaced the water pump and thermo. so i will flush it tomorrow. and the clutch problem just started on my way to Florida. is there any way to check those sensors.

yes you can test them
I'm having trouble finding the page with the info maybe someone els will post it later

what kind of thermo did you get ive heard tons of people saying that the parts store brand STANT is crappy to say the least and sometimes brandnew ones will crap out

I bought it from Advance Auto Parts in North Carolina. and i just went on there website and it all they sell is STANT Thermo products. but it was the $12 and they said it was guarantee'd not to stick. but i probably just fell for a load of crap...

You need to tell us what "warm" is. Was it going above 210, and if so did the electric fan go on. I would flush radiator, and depending on the condition of yours get a new one down the line. http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl232i.htm
For TPS check and adjustment. I don't think that is the problem though.

Does it just idle down and stall, or is it shutting off, like you turned the key off?

I've never tried it on a fuel injected engine but on a carburated engine spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb and the intake and round the vacuum lines and it'll rev when you spray it on a leak that sucks it in.

the tempature gauge got in between the white line and the red area it never went into the red though, and whoever owned the jeep before me hooked the fan up to a switch inside the vehicle, so i normally turn it on when it gets to the 210 mark. but when its not over heating the gauges stay just before the 210 mark.

i also read that whats on that page from the link you posted (mycherokee1989), its say the setting are different for an automatic and manual transmission, that one was from the automatic transmission.

As for the shutting off problem. I was slowing down from about 60 to get off at an exit ramp from the interstate, the idles just dropped and it would cut off and then when i would put in gear and let off the jeep would come back on.

you may have some air trapped in the system or you may just be low on fluid because of air working its way out.

all the fun with the heat and stalling
 

Hey Johnny, if you are having those issues still it might be that your radiator is bad. I have had that issue on a police package XJ and nearly rid myself of it with a 3 core copper rad from murry's auto parts ($220) as for the stalling it is most likely your IAC. You can simply take off your intake tube and open the throttle body ( i am guessing that is what you have) and clean it with mineral spirits or carb clean on a rag. Also take a look at your spark plugs, as if they are bad it can cause a Distrubator Less Ignition system to run hot as it pushes more amperage and voltage through the system. Good Luck.

I don't know about the Advance in NC, but I happen to know my way around one in MN, and have seen the testing done by STANT for their Superstat t stat. it is possible to get a bad one, but it is seriously 1 out of every 10,000 of each part number, and a good share of those get stuck because of forgien objects in the coolant(dex-cool gumbo, anyone?) I(and I am sure to eat crow for this) have never had one go out on me in the past 10 years I have been working on (and wrecking) cars. But, here is the key: I also change mine once yearly in the spring with all the other yearly maintenence I do like trans flushes, fuel filter changes, etc.

Honestly, I think you have a air pocket, but, that 'stat may be bad.:dunno:

If it is bad got a advance that is close with the reciept, they will fix you up, or, grab one from the dealer.
:cheers:

okay. im not too mechanically smart. some of you keep saying air pocket? do you mean bleed the clutch? if not, can you give me alittle more info on what your talking about?

Johnny....

Your heating and your low idle problems are seperate.....

With the closed cooling system you have in an 89... it is hard to get all the air out of it when you change a T-stat. So what happens is that you trap some air inside the system... Take a close look at the pressure resivoir on the fire-wall... I'll bet it isn't full enough. If it is you need to 'burp' the system.

Now... your stalling problem... It's not clutch related... It just happens when you push in the clutch. In a manual transmission vehicle you have a mechanical connection between the engine and driveline. That is your clutch. What is happening is two things... while on the Interstate you keep your foot on the gas and the engine stays running... but when you go to leave you take your foot off the gas and disengage the clutch. So now the engine tries to return to an idle. You have already figured out that re-engaging the clutch while moving will keep the engine running. Thats because now the engine is trying to spin at the speed of the input shaft on the tranny. Pull the IAC and clean it good. Also pull the TPS out of the throttle body and clean the throttle body well, including all of the small passages in it. Many times this problem is caused by the IAC hanging open.

Good explanation... I was trying to find the wording to explain the same thing without sounding condescending.

I have a problem with that, as you might have noticed.:brickwall: