Originally Posted by black2000xj (Post 2481698)

yes its the putco, has some chinese marking on the relays now, napa or carquest couldnt cross reference b/c of the chinese

does napa carry what i need, if i take those numbers to them?

Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 2481731)

Yep.

Originally Posted by EZEARL (Post 2481746)

I've found them available at Advance Auto. AA lists two.

Part # r4136 as "BWD Relay"
Part # r4136p as "BWD Headlight Relay"

I went w/#r4136p. These relays won't mount to the PUTCO bracket. My one original PUTCO relay is still doing fine.

Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty (Post 2481758)

So, did you replace any of the relays? do you have factory fogs?

Originally Posted by EZEARL (Post 2481767)

black2000xj,
Yea,it'll fit. My harness is a PUTCO also. I went with r4136p because the housing was of heavier material. Hope the link works.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header

Originally Posted by EZEARL (Post 2481785)

I changed out my relays on the AA parking lot. It fits.

My problem started with my high beams not working all the time. Then one night nothing. Next day I switched the two PUTCO relays and hi's worked. I could get the bad relay to work by pinching the housing but of course that would never do. Relay was sticking open.

If you look at the pics at AA's site you'll see that the housing is diff from the PUTCO so you can't mount them on the PUTCO bracket. I made one to work but you could just zip tie it somewhere.

Originally Posted by EZEARL (Post 2481811)

Put your lo beam relay on the hi beam harness to check. Both relays are the same.

Wonder if anyone else besides us has had a problem with the hi beam relay? My lo beam one is fine. HOPE I didn't just jinx myself!

Originally Posted by black2000xj (Post 2484431)

ok guys bought 2 new relays from AA

i installed them and i still have no brights. I took both off, switched them around and got the same results

cleaned all the grounds, but i still cant get my brights to work. Do you think its the harness or the headlight itself?

As mentioned before, the high beams will work once in a while, id say about 10% of the time

any ideas? anything i should do..all the connections are made with die electric grease so i know water and dirt shouldnt be a issue :dunno::dunno::dunno:

Help!

Originally Posted by freegdr (Post 2484439)

Check for current going into relay with test light .

Originally Posted by black2000xj (Post 2484444)

I got to have current going thru, my low beams work. But its my high beams, didnt work with the old relays, still dont work with the new relays

I dont think it can be a ground issue b/c if the grounds were bad i wouldnt have any headlights....right??

Originally Posted by freegdr (Post 2484446)

Both relays have own grounds from putco harness each relay gets separate power from factory xj plug. check for power going into high beam relay from factory plug .

Originally Posted by black2000xj (Post 2484448)

ok i will...I might just have my buddy who does led wiring make me another harness, with cheaper bosch relays instead of these chinese one

but i will take a look tonight

Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 2484451)

Why guess when you can test?

Originally Posted by freegdr (Post 2484454)

Morning sir

Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 2484557)

Good morning back at ya!! Off to work I go. Know how hard it is to sell propane in Arizona on 85* days?

Originally Posted by salad (Post 2484908)

Beware: if your original connectors are weak and don't "pinch" very well on the female side, dielectric grease is causing you problems. Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR - it is like caulking that never dries. It needs to be applied around the edges like a sealant. Think about it - do you do the edge of your water pump with RTV, or fill the whole unit and then wonder why you're overheating? Why would you do that with an electrical connector?

While you're checking your connectors, do the following
- Take them all apart
- Genty clean them with a brass wire brush and a heptane or hexane contact cleaner. You may have to alternate to remove all corrosion and contaminants
- Use a dental pick on female connectors to end the prongs inward. The idea is to get them to grip onto the male pins better
- Apply a light amount of a conductive electrical grease on either the pin or socket. Examples of these are Gardner Bender OX-GARD and Ideal NOALOX. You can find these at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. (Other products here: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html)
- Apply dielectric grease around the perimeter of the connector. Do not get any on the actual conductor. Remember, its like a gasket.
- Reassemble, wrap with tape if you feel like it.

A multimeter is essential for this type of work. Runs and connectors should read 0.3 ohms or less. When I installed my Putco harness I did the above, my grounds are 0.1 ohm to the battery and well protected from the elements.

Originally Posted by salad (Post 2484908)

Beware: if your original connectors are weak and don't "pinch" very well on the female side, dielectric grease is causing you problems. Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR - it is like caulking that never dries. It needs to be applied around the edges like a sealant. Think about it - do you do the edge of your water pump with RTV, or fill the whole unit and then wonder why you're overheating? Why would you do that with an electrical connector?

While you're checking your connectors, do the following
- Take them all apart
- Genty clean them with a brass wire brush and a heptane or hexane contact cleaner. You may have to alternate to remove all corrosion and contaminants
- Use a dental pick on female connectors to end the prongs inward. The idea is to get them to grip onto the male pins better
- Apply a light amount of a conductive electrical grease on either the pin or socket. Examples of these are Gardner Bender OX-GARD and Ideal NOALOX. You can find these at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. (Other products here: http://www.k1ttt.net/technote/antiox.html)
- Apply dielectric grease around the perimeter of the connector. Do not get any on the actual conductor. Remember, its like a gasket.
- Reassemble, wrap with tape if you feel like it.

A multimeter is essential for this type of work. Runs and connectors should read 0.3 ohms or less. When I installed my Putco harness I did the above, my grounds are 0.1 ohm to the battery and well protected from the elements.

Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 2485203)

salad: thanks for saving me the trouble of all that typing.

Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty (Post 2485063)

Good info. Apparently everything my dad taught me about the stuff was a lie :lol: I guess I've been lucky so far

Originally Posted by salad (Post 2485537)

AND I did all that on my iPhone. What your generation did to their joints after 60 years I did in 10 minutes! Thumbs are still sore from that

Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 2485618)

Hey!! Are you calling me old? 59 years young. Lost 16 pounds since December. getting close to my fighting weight!!!

Originally Posted by salad (Post 2485641)

More than twice the age of my sore thumb :yes:

Originally Posted by freegdr (Post 2485858)

Sounds like some people here forgot to take there meds yesterday .:icon_smile:

Originally Posted by cruiser54 (Post 2485912)

I did cut mine in half..

salad's my buddy. I pick on him just like I do you.

Originally Posted by freegdr (Post 2485917)

Figured so....