tgordon

I damaged the fusible link under the dash on the right/passenger side.
The fusible link is in a plug/holder that fits into a jack/connector in the harness. I have temporarily reinstalled it by simply sliding the wires into the connector, will solder it in later.
There's a 10A fuse located there also. (installed 15A for pic and TS only)
Please advise as to the purpose of the link and the fuse.
I have been reviewing the FSM and have not identified these as of yet.
Any help identifying these would be greatly appreciated.
Removing the dash panels to get to the wiring for radio, lighter and courtesy lights not working issues and hopefully clean up several wiring splices and fuse box taps I inherited from PO.
Hoping one of you XJ electrical gurus can help. There probably will be more questions as I get deeper into this project.

TIA,
Troy

ColoradoCorey

pics?

DFlintstone

I'm pretty sure you found the TCU (trans control Unit) fuse. It won't shift right with that out.

tgordon

Thanks for the info.
Does the TCU have both a fuse and fusible link?
Pics on the way CC.

DFlintstone

On our 87>90 renix Jeeps, the starter relay is there near the battery. One post has a "web" of fusible links (about 5?),(lengths of wire that will blow") coming off it. I think they are a temp sensitive alloy. Another fellow I tend to trust suggested they are just smaller wire????

If you are ever looking at diagrams like here> http://www.scribd.com/doc/11033020/Jeep-Cherokee-1989

Be sure you are looking at YOURS. (4.0, or 2.5) engine. I have made that mistake.

tgordon

[QUOTE=DFlintstone;1881645]On our 87>90 renix Jeeps, the starter relay is there near the battery. One post has a "web" of fusible links (about 5?),(lengths of wire that will blow") coming off it. I think they are a temp sensitive alloy. Another fellow I tend to trust suggested they are just smaller wire????

IIRC - Wire four gauge sizes smaller than the wire being protected. The main feature is the fire resistant covering.

cruiser54

Only a fuse is used in that circuit according to the wiring diagram.

Radi

Exactly. The fusible link to protect a #8 wire is just a short piece of #12 wire. 4 wire gauges smaller. You can easily make your own with flameproof shrink tube.

op: I don't think that's a fusible link you are seeing, it's probably a jumper plug.

tgordon

Radi, I don't think its a fusible link either. Reading considerable resistance/ohms.

tgordon

Radi, I don't think its a fusible link either. Reading considerable resistance/ohms. If the connector is jumped/shorted, the fuse blows when the circuit is powered up. Still trying to locate it in the FSM to identify. Now its more a quest for knowledge than an issue needing repair.

DFlintstone

Well, Cool! And thanks guys. (Btw. Radi, you were the "mystery" guy")

So odd that. I might think the design would incorporate something that gives it up when hot....guess the copper, (alloy) works.

Side note. I used a relatively large, I guess it's 6g, fine stranded, rubber clad, long 50'? line. (Was from a supply to a trailer or motor home), to pass only 10 amps or so of 12 Volt from the solar pannels on the roof, down to the battery bank. Mongo stuff to limit "copper losses". (that's simply power lost to resistance/heat) Anyway the degradation of it hurt. Tough to gauge if the sun just isn't shining as strong, if there was some monky business going on in the quality of the copper/alloy.

No doubt tons and tons of this stuff was imported, UL certified, and installed in untold thousands or trailers.. The 1/8 inch wire (roughly), was passing only 3 amps of 12V. It SEEMS to me it is CRAP, (not copper). The new is doing more like 12 amps. (depending on the sun) Like I said THAT HURT, some years of depending on that, and not knowing...

Idk, does this look good? (I'm still learning)

DFlintstone

Yea, the diagram in the above link will show where the tcu/fuse gets it's power. (probably one of the fused links)
Btw, it might be it should have a 15 amp fuse.(not sure)

DFlintstone

So Troy..It looks like your issue is you are going through the whole works. Yea, a fuse be a fuse. The "links" are there by the starter relay. Test things before you button it up to where you can't reach....the diagram can be really tough for me, (but helpful). I can't imagine what it would be like without a real screen to see it! I wouldn't get "creative" (much). things should plug in and work. You can wire-brush and spray connectors for that lemony smell....

Radi

Looks to me like it's the resistor pack that supplies pull-up voltage to the brake/torque converter TCU input. You can see it in the drawings in Dflintstone's link.
It's value is 1.2 ohms. Chrysler P/N 83504880 Here's a replacement:
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/.../83504880.html

The fuse should be 15A, acc'd to the drawing.

Here's a picture of the resistor pack as it should look. (not my pic, I found it while searching for the resistance value)

Radi

Don, that's aluminum service entrance wire.....and it's shot, lol.