SOLVED- a connector fell behind my headlight and got wedged between two points in the chassis... Causing a short

Thanks



I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport 4.0L inline 6 with some electrical issues.

Fuse #7 in the passenger kick panel is blown and keeps blowing. My driver side tail light, license plate light, and driver side cornering lights (below my headlight) are all out. Driver side brake lights work.

I believe it to be a short in a ground somewhere. All the connections I've looked at so far look fine. I have tried isolating the circuit by unplugging some connectors from the kick panel, C7, and some in the back behind the spare tire rack panel.

I'm new to working on cars, this is my first one I've tried to work on myself. I don't know where to start. I have done some research on this forum and others, but I haven't had much success.

If anyone has over come this issue and fixed tail lights or any other electrical issues that cross over into this problem, your input would be great.

Again the problem is my driver side tail light, cornering lights, and license plate light are all out, and fuse#7 is blowing.

 

Easy stuff first check the bulbs, then the sockets.

 

The bulbs are fine, the tickets are fine as well, except the license plate bulb socket, which I replaced.

 

Checked with a DMM or visually?

 

I checked the tail light socket visually, the brake light works, the socket looks good. The bulbs are good in the tail light, seeing as how the brake light works.
The license plate socket was burned out, and I replaced it.
The cornering lights looked good on the bulbs, I'll definitely double check the sockets.

By DMM do you mean a multi meter? I have tested the continuity in and around the wires going through my lift gate and at the connectors near the tail light in the rear trim panel, and am getting continuity in surprising places, mostly because I'm still unsure what is correct.

 

Actually burned? Were these other lamps working before this socket went up in flames?

 

those are all excellent things to check. I do have to say that I've learned to stop being surprised at what can short out, break, or otherwise go wrong with a Jeep. With the wiring, there are so many junctions where they can get pinched, worn, etc. and cause issues.

 

It was melted slightly. It was not in good shape. Yes the other lamps were working. I do not recall if the license plate lamp was working along with the other lights. I'm unsure of how long it was in that condition (license plate socket)

 

There are some previously worked on wires going through the tail gate that I have patched up. For some reason all these wires share continuity.
​​​​​​The research I've done so far is leading me to believe it's a short to ground. But I am willing to start back at square 1. Any tips on strong methods and order of operations is helpful. Will have to recheck the sockets this weekend.

 

If any wiring has burned you will have to check the full length of that harness for shorts.
FSM if you don't already have may help isolate circuits, wiring colors, etc.
http://www.pacificcoastmanuals.com/2...ce_manual.html

 

I have tried a new fuse with connector C7 unplugged from the kick panel fuse, and the connectors behind the rear driver's side trim with brown wire/yellow trace and one with the white wire/tan trace and the fuse still pops

 

The circuit does work. I unplugged everything related to fuse #7, replaced the 10amp fuse, plugged everything back in starting from the front under the hood and ending in the license light. The fuse held. I drove later on, turned the lights on and blew the fuse. I tested they vehicle running and with doors opened and closed... Seemed fine.

 

How are you testing continuity? To ground or from one side of the boot to the other? They all share a ground so that would make sense if they all had continuity at the ground. But from one wire to another they should not.

The wires in the boot to the hatch in my 01 were so bad I had to cut all the wires on both sides of the boot and ran all new wire through and spliced them back together at both sides. Have you checked to see if the rear defrost or rear wiper work? As of now I have no plate light, 3rd brake, rear wiper or rear defroster on one of my 98’s because I haven’t gotten to fixing the broken wires yet. And the taillight wires do not run through the boot. Also do you have a trailer wiring harness? Those commonly cause shorting issues.

 

I have seen bulbs that appear to be fine be the source of a short. Don't assume. If the glass is loose (even a tiny bit) from the brass, even a little bit, replace it.

 

I tested continuity from connector C7 at the passenger kick panel Junction Box (JB) to the connectors in the driver rear quarter panel. It was all over the place with that connector... Continuity everywhere....

I have tried the fuse with C7 unplugged and the fuse (#7) still will pop.... So what goes off is everything on L77 circuit... Left tail light, left running light, left corner light, license light.

I'm going to try changing the headlamp switch. Oddly enough, as I posted previously...I had the whole circuit working and the fuse holding a week ago. I took the Jeep for a drive and the fuse blew as soon as I engaged the headlamp plunger to the #1 position.. (#2 being headlamps).