Fuel Rail
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Fuel Rail
Objective: replace the fuel rail O-rings on a 1991, 4.0 Automatic.
According to Chiltons the following was removed from the Fuel Rail:
1. Fuel lines.
2. Injector wire harness connectors.
3. Rail retaining bolts.
4. Vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator.
5. Transmission pressure cable and bracket.
The book now says "Remove the fuel rail assembly from the engine.
Observations:
This is my first time removing injectors and I'm missing something here.
This fuel rail is stuck because the injectors are stuck to the head.
Questions:
1. How do the fuel injectors attach to the engine head?
2. Should the fuel injectors and fuel rail be removed as a single unit?
3. Any advice on when to replace the injectors as preventative maintenance, or only when they go out?
Thanks Jeepers
According to Chiltons the following was removed from the Fuel Rail:
1. Fuel lines.
2. Injector wire harness connectors.
3. Rail retaining bolts.
4. Vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator.
5. Transmission pressure cable and bracket.
The book now says "Remove the fuel rail assembly from the engine.
Observations:
This is my first time removing injectors and I'm missing something here.
This fuel rail is stuck because the injectors are stuck to the head.
Questions:
1. How do the fuel injectors attach to the engine head?
2. Should the fuel injectors and fuel rail be removed as a single unit?
3. Any advice on when to replace the injectors as preventative maintenance, or only when they go out?
Thanks Jeepers
#2
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Location: Chico,ca
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Once you have all the fuel rail bolts off and inlet line and outlet line off,just lightly pry the rail off working on both ends,it will come off very easy,if it is hard backtrack and make sure all bolts are off.
Be careful with the inlet and outlet,they have a little spacer between the two rubber seals,you do not want to loose it or break it,there should be some with your new kit though.
The injectors are just pressed into the head and rail,also held by a metal clip(rail only)they are held in place by the bolts.
I would also save your seals,the old ones,I have found them to be very useful.
Be careful with the inlet and outlet,they have a little spacer between the two rubber seals,you do not want to loose it or break it,there should be some with your new kit though.
The injectors are just pressed into the head and rail,also held by a metal clip(rail only)they are held in place by the bolts.
I would also save your seals,the old ones,I have found them to be very useful.
Last edited by Abovetimberline; 09-28-2009 at 11:31 PM.
#3
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 H.O
like he said.. just gently pry it off.. the are pressure fit into the intake, and the bolts just hold it down.. just make sure you dont bent the rail while prying it off it will make it hard to make it fit right and seal again.. i learned this the hard way when i swapped my first 4 liter... you are going to have to pushh a decent amount to get the rail back in but with a lil elbow grease it should pretty much pop right in.. and just snug everything back up
#6
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
One other thing is you said fuel rail o-rings,are planning on replacing the injector o-rings also? if not you do not have to remove the rail to just change the fuel rail o-rings.
#7
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Model: Cherokee
Pulled the Fuel rail
Pulled the Fuel rail off this evening.
It did not want to come out - that's for sure. Trying to outsmart the stuck rail I removed the six injector clips hoping to just leave the injectors behind.
But the whole thing eventually came out after giving it a good shake and twist. What helped me the most was standing at the fender and with my left hand grabbing the rail close to the firewall and pull - and pop! it jumped right out.
Thanks again - I'm on to checking / cleaning the injectors and replacing all the O-rings to seal up the rail tight. Ultimate goal is get my count down to 2-3 seconds before the engine starts up. Right now I'm up to 6-8 seconds cranking to get'r started.
It did not want to come out - that's for sure. Trying to outsmart the stuck rail I removed the six injector clips hoping to just leave the injectors behind.
But the whole thing eventually came out after giving it a good shake and twist. What helped me the most was standing at the fender and with my left hand grabbing the rail close to the firewall and pull - and pop! it jumped right out.
Thanks again - I'm on to checking / cleaning the injectors and replacing all the O-rings to seal up the rail tight. Ultimate goal is get my count down to 2-3 seconds before the engine starts up. Right now I'm up to 6-8 seconds cranking to get'r started.
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