dave1123

I just wrongly posted this in the Grand section. 2000 XJ.

Is there any simple way to keep the outside latch buttons from sticking? They seem to be too tight in the plastic handles and no amount of lubrication seems to help. If I give the handle a sharp whack on top, they usually pop free, but they are getting worse. At this point I'm about to try a tiny Dremel cutter to clearance them, but that could be a catastrophe. The bolts appear to be rusted and I think trying to loosen them would also snap them off.

Ralph77

Have you checked the rod in the door itself?
The door handles themselves come apart really easy once removed from the door.
Got curious one day and had an extra handle.

Even if you did snap the bolts all you are going to ruin is the handle itself.
I know that you are not trying to spend anymore money then necessary but they can be picked up on Ebay for about $10 each.
Sometimes even cheaper.
And betting a boneyard would be $10 for 2.

dave1123

Thank you Ralph for the response and it's given me an idea. I have access to a 2000 XJ that is going to the shredder and I got the driver's seat out of it before they started loading it with scrap metal. Both rear doors and the hatch won't open so my mechanic's brother used a Sawsall and opened the roof like a sardine can so they could load it! If he hadn't done that, I could have had the whole rig for the price of a tow dolly and getting the tires to hold air! His daughter was going to get me both rear handles and the passenger's seat, but the scrap got in the way trying to get the seat out. She mentioned cutting the handles out of the door with the saw, but I was so disgusted by the whole deal that I blew it off. The brother pushed it back into the woods so it's nearly impossible to work on it now. I think they are waiting for the price of steel to go up. I wonder how effective my sawsall would be on 200ft of extension cord? I wouldn't want to burn it up. I already cut thru both front legs of the seat when it was closer to the building, but the crap in the back was so tight, I couldn't bend the seat back far enough to reach under it for the rear two.

Before I bought my XJ, I asked about this XJ and was told it was being stored for a customer. He was killed in Iraq and his mother just wants it gone. My mechanic forgot I wanted it. It's a 2000 white 4-door with 97K miles on it! I'm so disgusted with the whole affair I don't really want to bother with it. Besides that, the back of the seat may be cut up from the scrap now. It didn't look like there was any rust on it either. What a waste! At least I got the driver's seat for my WJ.

Ralph77

I remember you telling that story. Was a shame.

Just so you know. The handles are just right and left. Front door, rear door, it doesn't matter.
So if the front door ones are easier to get at then.......
Thinking 200' is asking a lot. Not that I would know any better.
Thinking thicker extension cords, 10/3 for instance, might fly.
If you were to try pay attention to how hot the sawzall is getting.
What about a hacksaw?
Not the best solution but......

One thing I do remember from when I gutted an extra rear door I had.
When taking it apart, not just sawing through everything (LOL), it is easier to unhook
the rod at the actuator then at the door handle. The rod will just pull right out through the hole in the door.

Ralph77

There are few on Ebay.
Some way overpriced if you ask me.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...ion=3000&rt=nc

But I did find these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LH-RH-Side-...Condition=3000

They look like they might be in pretty decent shape. As far as the bolts and hinges/springs being rusty go.
Maybe not so much on the appearance. LOL.

dave1123

Front and rear being the same is nice to know! I know of one XJ in my local P&P that someone has taken both front window regulators out of so the door insides are wide open! IF it's still there, I might be in luck! The guys that run this yard are sneaky. They charge $15 + $2 core for ANY bucket seat regardless of vehicle or cover material, including leather, knowing full well nobody is going to return the core! Why would they want the core? Maybe some shop wants them to recover? They only charged me $5 each for WJ door latches that the dealers want $150 for. None of my 6 latches are original, all because of a tiny coil spring inside that moves the catch pawl.

Anyhow, the XJs are up in the back of the yard about 200 yards from the gate and office over rocks and mudholes. IDK if I'm up to that. I could drive 65 miles to Vince's yard that's all asphalt and they take Visa! I need a bunch of tiny body parts for my WJ also, like the tiny peanut bulbs in my overhead display for one. Last time I was at the local yard, I got 6, but only one was any good.

Vince's yard is nice. They tell me it used to be a airport with lots of parking for aircraft, so most of it is paved and what isn't is packed crushed stone. It's in Marcy, NY.

Ralph77

A boneyard where I don't have lie in the mud/grass/weeds/dirt when getting parts from underneath?
I have no idea what that would be like.
Almost sounds like heaven. LOL.

Yeah in my '00 parts catalog it just lists 2 part numbers.
Left and right. Same for front or rear doors.

boxburn

I cut out a fuel filler at a scrap yard with a set of metal hand shears. I forgot to bring something to make a pilot hole to begin the cut and got lucky, it was rusting away under the arch flair and gave me access. Who needs an electric saw?



One of the 2 yards I go to is all on concrete ground so it is nice. The other yard, I would not want to be on the ground when it's wet, it's a sloppy mess of mud and clay.