PatHenry

Jim - you can definitely handle changing the hub bearing or u-joints if they're bad.
I had a bad hub on my right front when I bought my XJ.
I highly recommend getting a new axle oil slinger (the little plastic ring that sits at the end of the axle tube) if you're taking the axle out. It's a $2 part at quadratec or like $6 on amazon, but since it's discontinued you will have a heck of a time finding a dealer that has one. Both sides of mine broke off the first time I took the axles out. The latter side I had bought one in advance so it was no problem, the first side I did was a much longer story.

JeepJimnMN

Pat - Did my homework, read post again,watched vid, and did visual inspection. 12 F today but my jeep was already on stands with lugs nuts loose. Spun wheels both fronts made noise(rusty rotors at this point). Removed LF wheel and turned lugs - right to left and there was play. Grab u joints twisted r-l and play. Drivers side almost no play. Also noticed sway bar bushings are worn out. End links look good. In addition to this problem rear drive shaft u joint (closest to transfer case) needs replacing and tranny pan is leaking. So parts list for this problem (both sides) are: 2 frt axle u joints, 2 axle spindle bearings, and 2 spindle hub seals? Each part is about 5 bucks. So for 30 bucks and my labor I can fix it? Any special tools needed? Thanks again!

PatHenry

Hahaha, it's actually not too bad.
Get the Spicer u-joints, about $20/e on Amazon. Moog hubs are about $80/e on Amazon, or about $100/e from Autozone or Advance with a 3y warranty.
You'll need a 36mm axle socket. You can rent these from your local parts store with a deposit. The 3 bolts holding the hubs on are 13mm 12 point sockets, so just regular 12 point socket on a breaker bar is usually good enough.
When I last did a hub I found it easy to take a blowtorch to the hub nut (it's a 180 ft/lb nut, but since I was replacing the hub I just heated it up really good and it came right off with a breaker bar.
You need a c-clamp to push the brake pad in for re-assembly and if you're doing the u-joints you can rent a ball-joint or u-joint press from the parts store (free with deposit). Snap ring pliers are helpful for those too.
I find it worth the nominal fee to take the new joints and driveshaft/axle shaft to the shop and have it done since the rust makes them a PITA. If you do them it helps to have a bench vise.
The axles just pull out and there's a trick to pop the hubs out with a long socket or bolt (it's well known so most write-ups will include it... it works wonders.. )

The front axle seals are in the differential (pumpkin) and require removing the gear.. it looks straightforward enough and it's on my list of future fixes, but unless you're leaking diff fluid you probably don't need to do them. Just take care when inserting/removing the axles and you'll be fine.

Also, do yourself a favor and get the axle oil slingers - they're the plastic piece on the axles at the end of the tube and are more of a dust-shield than anything else. They're $2/e at quadratec and amazon has them also.. it's just a 2 piece thing that clips together. Most dealers won't have them and both mine broke the first time I pulled the axles.

​​​​​​​I think that's it... you want needle nose pliers for the cotter pins and some wheel bearing grease to put in the hubs where the axle slides in.

JeepJimnMN

Wow sounds like more fun than I was expecting. I'll read the how to section and watch some vids. I should be good. Diff is not leaking so hope I can skip that part, although I did intend to replace fluid. Appreciate listing parts and tools needed. Not my dd so I have time to order parts and wait for temps to hit 30 degrees☺

jordan96xj

The little plastic circles on the axle shafts between the end of the axle housing and the hub are just axle housing dust shields (I have seen them referred to as oil slingers often). They somewhat help to keep large chunks of mud and road debris out of the axle housing. They certainly can't keep out moisture or water. I prefer to have mine on, but many XJs go without them after they break. I have had my axle shafts out 4-5 times for various reasons (u-joints, hubs, inner axle seals, front end rebuild, etc) and never broke them. They pretty much stay out of the way.

But do put your axle shafts back in with care, put some differential fluid on the ends that are going back in, and ensure that you hold their weight in your hands and do not let their weight bare down on the seal as you place the axle shaft back into the axle and slide them into the differential. The seals are quite fragile. I didn't realize just how fragile until I replaced them and got a good look at one. I had to do my seals as a result of one that I damaged on one of my various axle related jobs. It gave me plenty of warning though..a slow dribble of oil out of the axle I would find in the morning...that got progressively worse until I replace the seal.

Also after you have axles out, it is very normal to find a small oil puddle by the tire for the next couple of days. Don't immediately assume it is a damaged seal. Some of the differential oil will make its way into the axle housing when removing the shafts, especially if the vehicle isn't perfectly level. Then it will make its way to the end and dribble out. If it continues more than 2 days, or doesn't show signs of decreasing...then it is an axle seal.

PatHenry

If you're going to have the diff open and are a glutton for punishment, it would be the best time to do the seals since you have to pull the axles and open the diff.
Where yours are not leaking, I wouldn't even worry about it.

Everything Jordan said is spot on. I didn't mean to suggest those axle slingers are necessary, only that if yours break like mine did and you do want them, they're not easy to get locally and they are much, much easier to put on with the brakes out of the way.

I would only add that the driver's side axle is pretty easy to center in the axle tube carefully so you're not putting the seal at risk. The passenger side is more difficult. The axles are heavier than they look and it's a long tube.
You should be OK since you'll have the hub off, just take care and have your new hub pre-greased on the center splines and within arms reach so you can support the inserted axle with one hand while you grab the hub with the other.

JeepJimnMN

Jordan - very important tip - thx. Pat - great info as well (drivers vs passenger side). I can visualize now what I'm up against with the seals. Seems impossible to keep centered on far end while inserting. Hopefully if I'm really gentle while replacing I'll be ok? Well I'm ready to start taking apart and will order parts tomorrow. Really appreciate info and tips.

aj_berg

Thanks for the input, everyone! I was finally able to have some wrench time last night and it was the hub. I'm glad I joined the forum, I didn't expect this much feedback and now I have some useful information going forward if other issues arise.