Diagnosing help needed : Dead water pump, or worse?
#1
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Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.0L HO
Diagnosing help needed : Dead water pump, or worse?
92 Cherokee with a 4.0.
I was driving through some really wet, cold weather on the way home from the store. I get a bad rattling and grinding from the front end, but I was in traffic and I didn't think it was me. Anyway, I get out of the traffic and the grinding gets bad. I realized it was me, so I tried to get off the road, and about the time I find a place a couple blocks away, the grinding stops and I start getting some smoke/ steam from the front end, and I realize the temp gauge is pinned in the red.
I get off the road, pop the hood and the whole bottom of the engine is wet. The coolant reservoir is full to the top (it's always kept at the fill line.), and it looks off in color. During a couple quick tests with the engine on, I see the water pump pulley is not turning.
How would you diagnose this? I'm thinking it's a seized water pump.
What would a blown head gasket look like? The coolant in the reservoir didn't look like chocolate milk, but it did have a reddish/ brownish tint to it - could that have been just rust?
I'm thinking (hoping really since I just got laid off) that this can be done for cheap by replacing the serpentine belt, water pump, and t-stat. Am I missing anything?
I was driving through some really wet, cold weather on the way home from the store. I get a bad rattling and grinding from the front end, but I was in traffic and I didn't think it was me. Anyway, I get out of the traffic and the grinding gets bad. I realized it was me, so I tried to get off the road, and about the time I find a place a couple blocks away, the grinding stops and I start getting some smoke/ steam from the front end, and I realize the temp gauge is pinned in the red.
I get off the road, pop the hood and the whole bottom of the engine is wet. The coolant reservoir is full to the top (it's always kept at the fill line.), and it looks off in color. During a couple quick tests with the engine on, I see the water pump pulley is not turning.
How would you diagnose this? I'm thinking it's a seized water pump.
What would a blown head gasket look like? The coolant in the reservoir didn't look like chocolate milk, but it did have a reddish/ brownish tint to it - could that have been just rust?
I'm thinking (hoping really since I just got laid off) that this can be done for cheap by replacing the serpentine belt, water pump, and t-stat. Am I missing anything?
#2
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Year: 1998
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if the water pump pulley is stuck it is locked up. replace it....Hot watter will loosen rust and junk in the block and it will be deposited into the overflow bottle...in turn the overflow will be over full because it is boiling building pressure and being pushed out..........here is what i would do...........Verify the pulley is 100% locked check oil color/condition...buy new W/P,T-stat (bench test it prior to install) and a new Radiator cap. Install it all. Flush the block with prestone radiator flush...flush it with water 2 or 3 times till it comes out clear...then fill with 50/50 mix.
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if the water pump pulley is stuck it is locked up. replace it....Hot watter will loosen rust and junk in the block and it will be deposited into the overflow bottle...in turn the overflow will be over full because it is boiling building pressure and being pushed out..........here is what i would do...........Verify the pulley is 100% locked check oil color/condition...buy new W/P,T-stat (bench test it prior to install) and a new Radiator cap. Install it all. Flush the block with prestone radiator flush...flush it with water 2 or 3 times till it comes out clear...then fill with 50/50 mix.
#4
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Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.0L HO
if the water pump pulley is stuck it is locked up. replace it....Hot watter will loosen rust and junk in the block and it will be deposited into the overflow bottle...in turn the overflow will be over full because it is boiling building pressure and being pushed out..........here is what i would do...........Verify the pulley is 100% locked check oil color/condition...buy new W/P,T-stat (bench test it prior to install) and a new Radiator cap. Install it all. Flush the block with prestone radiator flush...flush it with water 2 or 3 times till it comes out clear...then fill with 50/50 mix.
Sounds solid, I'm going to go check the oil now. I'll make sure a radiator cap is on the list. I'm just praying that oil is normal colored. Should I run the jeep when checking the oil?
I'm curious, is there anything that can be done to reduce the "environmental impact" when you are on the side of the road with coolant bleeding out?
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Year: 1998
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Sounds solid, I'm going to go check the oil now. I'll make sure a radiator cap is on the list. I'm just praying that oil is normal colored. Should I run the jeep when checking the oil?
I'm curious, is there anything that can be done to reduce the "environmental impact" when you are on the side of the road with coolant bleeding out?
I'm curious, is there anything that can be done to reduce the "environmental impact" when you are on the side of the road with coolant bleeding out?
#6
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just a metal note! if your system has a pressure bottle it probly isn't going to have a radiator cap. i'm not certain which year they changed it but niether my 87 or 89 had one, so there's no use in wasting the money!
#7
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Year: 1992
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Thanks! My 92 does have a cap, so I'm good to go. I actually came across my mechanic as I was walking to the store today, and he's pretty sure I just have a bad water pump as well,sounds like it was a good idea to not try to limp it home yesterday.
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#8
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Year: 1992
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I'll update once I know exactly what is up with the jeep.
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